The amount of pressure on the diaphragm to open the gate probably won't be a direct indicator of the drive pressure required to push that puck out of the way and start bypassing the turbine.
To lay it out there clearly, the red line comes off of an electronic boost regulator... I think that's the name. It's part of the factory system that attempts to keep boost under 22psi on factory tuning. As boost approaches that number, that regulator starts putting pressure on the diaphragm so that less drive pressure is required to open the gate and stop boost from building past 22psi.
So when you disconnect it, you disconnect the helper. That's it. Drive pressure on that puck will still push it out of the way, depending on where you have the rod tightened to.
If it was me, I'd pop that c-clip off, and tighten down the lolipop end of that rod as far as I could. Then reattach and see how far shop air moved the gate, not how much shop air was needed to move the gate. Like Matt said, let it move a little if you'd like.
Not tightening down that rod will result in it always opening at XX psi back pressure. And with the stock 38R wheel, will result in only ever getting 30psi boost.
That gen 2 wheel might do alot better on the current gate setting, but it's a hell of a lot easier to adjust the gate with the turbo on the bench.
