Just got the new 38R installed and after testing it out a bit I have some questions.. the first thing I noticed with this turbo (besides the whistle) is how quick the EGT's go up. I don't even dare use my 120 tune anymore. I hit 1400 in about 3 seconds flat. On 100hp it is better but not by much. I thought if anything I'd see lower temps with this turbo.... Any suggestions? Is it a tuning issue?
38R - High temps a lot quicker???
- Thread starter edge186
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neverkickn
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You shouldn't notice a large egt increase when moving to this charger. I wonder if you havre a boost or drive pressure leak. If you are all clear there then you might want to make sure the wastegate is adjusted right.
neverkickn
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With the di uppies, the only way I can think of you having a drive pressure leak, short of a defect in the assembly is if you didn't properly allign the collector with the turbine housing of the charger. assuming of course that the manifolds aren't leaking and that the uppies are properly attached to the manifolds.
Did you bolt the charger to the pedistal and then attach it to the collector? I have heard that those uppies can be tricky to mount. I would almost be tempted to detach them from the exhaust manifolds, bolt down the charger on the pedistal so your orings don't walk, fit the collector onto the charger properly, and then attach the uppies to the manifolds.
But before you go to all that trouble you should attach a boost leak detector and pressurize the system.
As far as the wastegate goes, it should already be pretty well adjusted from the factory, but if you determine that you dont have any leaks then you can tighten the rod on the actuator a little at a time to see if it helps.
Out of curiosity, what where your boost numbers when you did your test drive? Was the truck more smokey than normal?
Did you bolt the charger to the pedistal and then attach it to the collector? I have heard that those uppies can be tricky to mount. I would almost be tempted to detach them from the exhaust manifolds, bolt down the charger on the pedistal so your orings don't walk, fit the collector onto the charger properly, and then attach the uppies to the manifolds.
But before you go to all that trouble you should attach a boost leak detector and pressurize the system.
As far as the wastegate goes, it should already be pretty well adjusted from the factory, but if you determine that you dont have any leaks then you can tighten the rod on the actuator a little at a time to see if it helps.
Out of curiosity, what where your boost numbers when you did your test drive? Was the truck more smokey than normal?
This is totally opposite of what you should have experienced. Your race tunes should be smoke free with the 38r. Something.was mis-assembled. I would disassemble and reassemble as instructed by nevrkickn and pay special attention to.getting.everything.lined up. Bolts started with a full nut on each but loose enough to adjust alignment. Gradually tighten every connection, checking for good.fit and then tighten it down. The turbo/pedestal should be bolted down fairly snug first.
I bolted the turbo to the pedistal, then attached the up pipes to the exhaust housing. But it seemed to mate right up... And with the compressor discharge I put a light coating of rtv sealant around the o-ring. So that should be good.
Boost levels on the test run were slightly higher than normal. The most I saw was 21 or 22 lbs where as with the stock turbo it was 18-20.
And smoke is pretty close to the same if not slightly less than before.
4.0l sahara
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I think you have a boost leak or drive pressure leak you should see 30 ish psi. My stock tuned truck would see just over 30psi.
At what altitude though? I'm at roughly 4,500 ft..
Well I just checked all the fittings and connections and everything seems tight and straight...
I took it for another test drive an it still warms up fairly quickly. Still quicker than I remember it doing on the stock turbo..
When I'm in the 120 race tune the boost will shoot to 20 but then it stops. It will hit 21 or 22 if I hold it for a minute. I did video it for a second. I will try to post it if I can figure out how.
I took it for another test drive an it still warms up fairly quickly. Still quicker than I remember it doing on the stock turbo..
When I'm in the 120 race tune the boost will shoot to 20 but then it stops. It will hit 21 or 22 if I hold it for a minute. I did video it for a second. I will try to post it if I can figure out how.
Blowby
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Sounds like the WG is opening. Tighten it up a little and bring the boost up.
Tighten as in shorten the actuator? I apologize I have no idea how they work.
Ron's Power Stroke
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:whs:
or you crushed the plenums or didnt get the dowl lined up in the collector... the 38R lowered my egt's by 200*....
I actually used plenum reinforcement inserts from riffraff so that I wouldn't crush them.
What are we referring to as the collector? the intake manifold or the up pipes? because I've reinspected them both twice and I cannot see that either of them are misaligned...
Cory S
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fuel pressure?
Blowby
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Correct!
neverkickn
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The collector is the part where both of the up pipes connect. The collector is v banded to the exhaust housing on the charger.
I would personally adjust the wastegate like Blowby said before you start taking anything else apart. You shouldn't be able to spin it fast enough to even need it with stock injectors so tighten it up a couple of turns and see what that does for you.
Aaron S
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Do you have the colored tubes connected to the waste gate and its control solenoid?
I have DI up pipes and I've checked the collector where they connect to the exhaust housing. Everything looks like its where it's supposed to be.
I tightened up the wastegate actuator a bit (3 full turns on the threads) and drove it around some more. I don't think it made a bit of difference.
Yes they are all connected.
Aaron S
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Maybe try a test run with the tube disconnected from the waste gate actuator.
Aaron S
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Can you get someone to stab the throttle while you look under the hood and see if soot comes out anywhere.
