7.3 sd mods

smitty4605

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Thats the route im gonna go with. Are all the companies on here about the same when it comes to quality?

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TyCorr

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Because it was free. Lol.



Smoked a bit
Turbo lit
That was it

Thats even better! I wasnt trying to bash you, not at all buddy. I was making a point. And the 38r is a lot closer to free than a mount kit and s366. By the time you buy a decent wastegate you have a ton of $$ into it. Enough to buy another 38r. You know so when it blows :poke:
 

littleredstroker

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Thats even better! I wasnt trying to bash you, not at all buddy. I was making a point. And the 38r is a lot closer to free than a mount kit and s366. By the time you buy a decent wastegate you have a ton of $$ into it. Enough to buy another 38r. You know so when it blows :poke:

Lol yeah. I guess I'm a firm believer in spending $ once lolol

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powerlifter405

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Thats the route im gonna go with. Are all the companies on here about the same when it comes to quality?

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No.

Swamps or Gearhead is where I'd head. I've been dealing w/ those two getting things situated for my 99. I used a few other vendors for my 02 several years ago and regretted at least two of them. I also had some issues w/ BDP as well but Bean and I traded some emails a year or so ago and he tried to right the wrong so I respect that.

Fwiw, Swamps and GH have both given me smarter $$ options versus what I was originally thinking for my 99 recently.

And, if you keep it simple stupid-KISS.... You can get what you need and still have a reliable but plenty powerful truck.

IF, you have your heart set on spending the money for a T4 setup, do it right and get a GTX 4294 w/ some 200/200 or 300/200 and get lived tuned. Your truck will live and you can tow or haul a$$ in the same truck.

Remember, much more than some stage 1's or AC's and a 38R, you'll need to invest in ARP's, RR, HPOP, valve springs and so on. Are they needed 100%? No but to truly appreciate your potential and to truly be reliable you should. I know I would use the above mods to get the most from those injectors. Ty did the HPOP and RR on his stock sticks and mentioned it improved that stock setup nicely.

In the end it's your pocket book not mine. Just for the record, I sold my IDP tuned 6.4 and now own a 100% stock 99. I went from 600+ on tap to 235(barely) hp and I'm very happy w/ that decision.
 

smitty4605

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I was gonna talk to swamps first and see what kind of package they could do

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TyCorr

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Smitty, I dont think you can go wrong with anyone vendor. Swamps is a household name in diesel. Diesel Innovations are another.company. Soo many.
 

Borncountryboy

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Powerlifter....how can you be happy going from 600+HP to 235ish HP? Are you getting old where slow is good? I just bought a 99.5 7.3 that I''m lookin at getting 500+...if it looks to xpensive then I would consider getting into a 6.4, doin the reverse of what you did.
 

dustinz85

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I was gonna talk to swamps first and see what kind of package they could do

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If your on a budget I built my truck well still in college, so money was tight. It took me almost two years while in school but I picked up some stage 1 injectors here off the forum for a decent price. Bought a ww2 and a rebuilt kit for stocker. Bought a RR from DI (awesome kit in IMHO). I already had a tuner, got it retuned for the single shot injectors. This past summer ran it on the Dyno and made 395/850. Cost me a little under 2 grand. I think it may have some more in it due to the weak hpop it has. So if you looking for 400 on a budget, there are usually some lightly used stage 1 or 2 floating around the forums. Just a thought.

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V-Ref

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Smitty

Your question about reliability....I think you need to look at what breaks on these trucks vs. the power level...then ask yourself what reliability level you're happy with.

Like these guys are saying...the trans is a buy now or buy later deal. You can plan on running the one you have on smaller tunes...but just know in the future, you'll likely need to bite the bullet.

The factory fuel system is a POS. It leaks, doesn't flow/filter fuel very well. An aftermarket fuel system from Strictly, Irate, or Diesel Innovations can IMPROVE reliability on your truck. If you decide to do a DIY fuel system, make sure you take the time to engineer it as good as the systems available from the vendors.

The factory HPOP system will generally starting tapping out on injectors with a 100% nozzle...on the longer Pulse Width tunes...your IPR Duty Cycle will start to get to the unhealthy point....so you'll need a "medium oil" HPOP in there to keep that under control. Nothing is more reliable than a stock off the shelf OEM HPOP. Ask injector builders/tuners you're contemplating doing business with, what's the largest nozzle a stock 17 deg hpop can support.

The factory headgaskets start to get skittish at our above the 450 hp level without headstuds. Some will say lower, some might say higher. But my opinion is you'd need headstuds over 450 hp.

Valve/piston contact is a concern at RPMs over 3000, and if you start encountering drive pressures (think of it as boost pressure on the exhaust side driving the turbine side of your turbo) over 40 psi. The fix for this is pushrods/valve springs.

Finally...rods...blocks...etc...these get skittish on anything over 550 hp. Some will quote a handful of 650hp forged rod trucks...but tuning, use, owner history....there's a large variance here...so I'd say for any power level north of 550 hp, and to be dead set confident...you'd need to plan on a built up short block. $$$$

If you knew, that you're never gonna have a built short block, and that if this motor had an internal failure, you'd just replace it with a used running forged rod long block....than I'd set my goal at 500-550 hp.

But you don't need to get there in one step either....

I'd do the fuel system, HPOP, and turbo as time/budget permitted. Learn your truck, and continue to research injectors/builders.

Then I'd do springs, studs, valve springs, pushrods and the injectors you decided on.

Talk with as many vendors and customers as you can. The customer experience you have pre-purchase, will be representative of the one you have post-purchase.

Hope this helps. Remember....keep it fun!:fordoval:
 
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smitty4605

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From what I've been reading on here, and trying to soak up all the knowledge I can along with trying to understand these motors, anything over 400hp is when you start to run into issues. So even if I get it just under 400 I'd be more then happy. Im almost positive that im gonna need a turbo. Its sounds like it is making some not so good noises. So that is why I plan on upgrading the turbo. I wanna get new injectors now while I still can along with the RR and tunes.

I understand the trans is a major weak point unless its built. So that is why im slowly looking for parts or donor truck to do a 6sp manual swap. Plus I miss having a manual trans.



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powerlifter405

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Powerlifter....how can you be happy going from 600+HP to 235ish HP? Are you getting old where slow is good? I just bought a 99.5 7.3 that I''m lookin at getting 500+...if it looks to xpensive then I would consider getting into a 6.4, doin the reverse of what you did.

LOL that could be it! Seriously though every time I look at my bank account I"m thankful I did. No more payment, cheaper insurance, I can do all the work in my garage w/ hand tools and no lift is needed short of decking the block. I can get the motor out in just a few hours and no special diagnostic tools are needed aside from an AE. If I want a decently built block I can get one from Swamps for around 7k. You don't see that happening w/ the 6.4.

Getting a fully deleted setup 6.4 is gonna be hard to do. Then you have to worry about inspections depending on where you live, cab off repairs, more electronics to trouble shoot etc.

I forgot to mention stable fuel mileage. My 02 7.3 consistently got 18 mpg, my 6.4 would but rarely. If the moon and stars were aligned it would but it was so finicky to do so it was no longer fun to drive. 13 mpg in town empty was getting old quick, as were the quirky factory issues. It was fun but I love how simple it is to deal w/ the 7.3 comparatively speaking, at least in my opinion.
 

lincolnlocker

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From what I've been reading on here, and trying to soak up all the knowledge I can along with trying to understand these motors, anything over 400hp is when you start to run into issues. So even if I get it just under 400 I'd be more then happy. Im almost positive that im gonna need a turbo. Its sounds like it is making some not so good noises. So that is why I plan on upgrading the turbo. I wanna get new injectors now while I still can along with the RR and tunes.

I understand the trans is a major weak point unless its built. So that is why im slowly looking for parts or donor truck to do a 6sp manual swap. Plus I miss having a manual trans.



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If your planning on towing a lot then I wouldnt swap transmissions. Save up for a good 4r..

live life full throttle
 

smitty4605

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I thought that the zf6 was stronger then the 4r

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lincolnlocker

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I thought that the zf6 was stronger then the 4r

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They are bad mother ***ers for 330ft at a time.. only need a good clutch... but put a sustained 300+hp through them for any length of time and they will burn up, even the cooled ones do that...

A good 4r will handle it much better in both aspects.

live life full throttle
 

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