OSCS
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yes, a couple people have posted on this thread stating they do
Annnnd BOOM goes the dynomite
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yes, a couple people have posted on this thread stating they do
PowerstrokeJunkie
Active member
Swamps has stated the majority of the heat from the combustion event happens in the top two to three inches of the cylinder. I did a tall fill on my built engine and it came out at right about 2 inches below deck surface. I have done a half fill (one bag of Hardblok) on a friends engine and it seemed like it was enough to just coat the bottom of the water jackets, hardly worth the hassle
This is what SWAMPS has on their site about it in their Competiion Performance build.
To prevent the engine block from fracturing at the main registers, & prior to machine work, the cylinder block will be cleaned and filled with HardBlok. During the block-fill curing process, we will install BHJ deckplate(s) and main caps & girdle to pre-stress the engine block in a simulated 'assembled' condition. This step simulates an 'assembled' condition, so that the block cylinder bores & mains are held by the block filler once cured. This 1-2 week process ensures that all machine work done to the block will not change nor distort dimensionally after machine work and assembly. A 2" void in the top of the block (the hottest area where combustion occurs) will be left unfilled to allow for adequate coolant circulation through the block. We have dozens of filled blocks being daily driven as street trucks, and have seen no compromise to the engine, even when used for towing applications.
While we do use a sealant to seal the HardBlok from contaminating the cooling system, we do recommend a coolant filter.
Customers with high horsepower towing vehicles may consider our 4340 pre-hardened steel bedplate as an alternative to the Hardblok.
To prevent the engine block from fracturing at the main registers, & prior to machine work, the cylinder block will be cleaned and filled with HardBlok. During the block-fill curing process, we will install BHJ deckplate(s) and main caps & girdle to pre-stress the engine block in a simulated 'assembled' condition. This step simulates an 'assembled' condition, so that the block cylinder bores & mains are held by the block filler once cured. This 1-2 week process ensures that all machine work done to the block will not change nor distort dimensionally after machine work and assembly. A 2" void in the top of the block (the hottest area where combustion occurs) will be left unfilled to allow for adequate coolant circulation through the block. We have dozens of filled blocks being daily driven as street trucks, and have seen no compromise to the engine, even when used for towing applications.
While we do use a sealant to seal the HardBlok from contaminating the cooling system, we do recommend a coolant filter.
Customers with high horsepower towing vehicles may consider our 4340 pre-hardened steel bedplate as an alternative to the Hardblok.
Marty
New member
7.3's are not sleeved from the factory.
Sleeves add a fair amount of expense to an engine build. There are positives and negs to it.
It's just easier to start with a virgin block if there are porosity issues or cracks in the cylinder.
In my experience I use a set of rods and leave most everything else stock for a DD engine.
And... the only torque to yeild bolts are the head bolts. Every other fastner can be reused in the engine.
Sleeves add a fair amount of expense to an engine build. There are positives and negs to it.
It's just easier to start with a virgin block if there are porosity issues or cracks in the cylinder.
In my experience I use a set of rods and leave most everything else stock for a DD engine.
And... the only torque to yeild bolts are the head bolts. Every other fastner can be reused in the engine.
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OSCS
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littleredstroker
New member
I hate my pmrs everytime I read a thread like this
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Your still going to use SHE?
OSCS
New member
probably not.. im on the hunt for a good factory short block or im going to go broke having swamps build me a short block. Im not going to lie though that 2450 is VERY tempting
OSCS
New member
man i just crawled under the truck for another look and it seems it blew out the other side of the block as well.. I bet once i get it torn open its going to be NASTY in there
PowerstrokeJunkie
Active member
likea thees?
OSCS
New member
Little somethin like that
Groomzybanshee
New member
Get off here and get it out...
littleredstroker
New member
Someone cut your tans line ...
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OSCS
New member
LOL I'm waiting on a member to shoot me some compression numbers on a long block. I can't wait to break it open to see how bad I ***ed it up.
OSCS
New member
That's actually the factory feed line. I hacked it apart when I upgraded the fuel system. It almost took out my tranny lines when the rod came through the other side of the block though LOL
littleredstroker
New member
Oh god not the tranny line! Anything but the tranny line! Those are expensive.............................
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