Another pmr bites the dust..

Chvyrkr

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Make sure they're smooth, flat, and not cracked. Should be pretty standard for a good machine shop, nothing special
 

Chvyrkr

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Oh, I ran 30k on Jonathan's tunes on a PMR engine.

Trapped 93 at 7980 too.

Probably had 30-40 hooks on it, and it towed a half tank a week. Switch for the chip was under the dash, truck never left the hot tune.

Some engines blow, some don't. That PMR engine is sitting in the shop, fully assembled.
 

littleredstroker

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Do you have any pictures with the cylinders heads off ( blown up engine)

Not yet. It's sitting in the driveway with a foot of snow on it. I'm gonna get the spare motor ready to drop before I pull it, but I guarantee I will post the most detailed pics of this boat anchor that you guys have ever seen. Carnage is cool. Should be 1-2 weeks

sent while looking at a hole in my block
 

TyCorr

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Im not joking. I wuldnt pull the heads unless I was gonna put billet rods in. If you are just planning to swap to.get it running why break the seal? Yer gonna put bearing and rings in a low mileage fr motor put hybrids in it and the bolt the heads back on? You said the stuff in your sig would go back on, I dont see studs. If Im looking at this correctly Id say this is a pretty bad idea. I think id stud them and run stock injectors until those bitshes were baked on. Maybe you'd be fine but this approach wouldnt give me the warm fuzzy feeling Id want after running a pmr bottom end.

My 2 pennies. Id contact someone who builds these motors and ask them what they think because this.flies in the face of what Ive been told by some pretty fart smellas in the seven tree world.
 

Old OutLaw

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when you get the block and heads cleaned-resurfaced, down to the bare metal,
(if you aren't going to send the block out and get it re-surfaced, do it yourself with re-surfacing pads on a air tool),
just before you put the heads and gaskets on, wipe down both heads and block with Lacquer Thinner, and do the gaskets also.

most head gasket problems are due to improper cleaning, or fluids running out of the heads right after you set them on, and
contaminating the surfaces before you have a chance to torque them down. you want your block, heads, and gaskets clean, and DRY....

and I also would do the studs...
 

4.0l sahara

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Since when do you resurface a block with a air tool?LOL The best way to clean the block and heads is by hand not a die grinder with a pad.
 

littleredstroker

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The heads I've done before I used a block of wood, emry cloth, and wd40.may just go with the 200k mile motor he Said Was rolled. May do studs and springs I already have the Tn turbo so I guess springs are necessary
sent while looking at a hole in my block
 

Old OutLaw

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it's not actually "Re-Surfacing", it's more like a real good cleaning.....I used and liked for many years, a Snap-On 90 degree air die grinder and the screw-in (Rolock), "Surfacing Pads" that 3M (Scotchbrite), makes.
they have different grits, and they do a very good job..... :

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/...-inner-200-per-case?N=5095263+4294943837&rt=d

http://www.eastwood.com/strip-disc-...=40408681047&gclid=CLXMudWR2LYCFWXZQgodfzYADA

these pads are not for leveling or taking any metal OFF, just for cleaning what's there....if the piece needed to be surfaced, it got sent out...
it will, however, take the "Etch" out of the metal pretty well, and provides a much better gasket bonding surface.

you can also do a decent job with a block and sandpaper, this does about the same job, but in one tenth the time...
 
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DocBar

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He is not talking about a die grinder. but something like this...http://i780.photobucket.com/albums/yy85/dlg07999535899/66114c.jpg
I would not use that on a mating surface with anything other than a very fine grit to remove gasket material or RTV before sending the block and heads to the machine shop. I certainly wouldn't do it to ensure flatness of any surface.

Having put together and helped put together many SB and BB drag motors, I'm a very firm believer in good machining. It will make or break you motor. I seriously doubt the lower RPM's of a diesel build minimize the need for machining in any way, in a performance application. Hell, even a DD stock application.
 

Powerstroke Cowboy

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I would not use that on a mating surface with anything other than a very fine grit to remove gasket material or RTV before sending the block and heads to the machine shop. I certainly wouldn't do it to ensure flatness of any surface.

Having put together and helped put together many SB and BB drag motors, I'm a very firm believer in good machining. It will make or break you motor. I seriously doubt the lower RPM's of a diesel build minimize the need for machining in any way, in a performance application. Hell, even a DD stock application.

And I agree. I would never!! and can i will say it again NEVER Use a thing like that to resurface heads or even clean them up. Would be way to risky! Was just posting what I thought he meant.
 

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