OBS-Addiction97
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Thanks guys.
Anybody replace their HPOP hoses with this?
- Thread starter clydesdale
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CATDiezel
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There are other companies that compete with swagelok that are perfectly fine. You just need the test spec records to prove it.
We use swagelok and other brands all over in the high pressure natural gas business. Swagelok is an industry standard tho for stainless tubing and fittings.
We use swagelok and other brands all over in the high pressure natural gas business. Swagelok is an industry standard tho for stainless tubing and fittings.
m j
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this is some low pressure hydraulic systems, no need for 'brand name' magic proprietary parts
if you have the hose spec you want any hydraulic shop can make you hpo lines
the heads are -05ORB the pump is -06ORB
if you have the hose spec you want any hydraulic shop can make you hpo lines
the heads are -05ORB the pump is -06ORB
clydesdale
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I thank everybody for their input and help with trying to decide on how to proceed with the hydraulic lines. Sorry for beating this to death, but I just don't want to switch off from the stock set up and have a problem, but also don't want to miss an opportunity to strengthen the reliability and I simply don't have the mechanical knowledge to make this decision without consulting more experienced folks. So, I have another clarifying question or two.
1. If I switch to the jic fittings, won't that eliminate all the o-rings in the quick fittings and therefore make the system a bit simpler?
2. Will there still be an o-rings where the jic fittings screw into the pump and into the heads? I realize the hoses will simply screw onto the fittings and that locktite will still be suggested at that junction.
3. Also, I think I read something on Bob Riley's Dieselsite page where the diameter of the line is important. So, I think I would want to just replace the line with the same size. Does anybody know what that size actually is?
Thanks.
1. If I switch to the jic fittings, won't that eliminate all the o-rings in the quick fittings and therefore make the system a bit simpler?
2. Will there still be an o-rings where the jic fittings screw into the pump and into the heads? I realize the hoses will simply screw onto the fittings and that locktite will still be suggested at that junction.
3. Also, I think I read something on Bob Riley's Dieselsite page where the diameter of the line is important. So, I think I would want to just replace the line with the same size. Does anybody know what that size actually is?
Thanks.
psduser1
Active member
#1 O rings at the heads and pump, cause that's what they are.
#2 hose diameter is not really an issue, 3/8" is what you'll want. No advantage to anything bigger, the fitting size at the head is #5-translates to 5/16". That is your restriction.
#2 hose diameter is not really an issue, 3/8" is what you'll want. No advantage to anything bigger, the fitting size at the head is #5-translates to 5/16". That is your restriction.
clydesdale
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Just to clarify your answer to about the o-rings, either way there will be o-rings between the pump and jic fitting and the head and jic fitting, correct. This will really just eliminate the quick fit coupler and replace it with a coupler that uses jic threads, correct?
I will be eliminating the o-rings in the quick fit coupler and the need for a factory hose. I could then just get a hose made at a hydraulic shop. Thus, the system will be simpler, correct?
Sorry, that I need to have this broken down to such simpler terms. I often seem to leave an important detail out that makes my "simple" plan blow up. So, I just want to make sure I fully get this. Thanks.
I will be eliminating the o-rings in the quick fit coupler and the need for a factory hose. I could then just get a hose made at a hydraulic shop. Thus, the system will be simpler, correct?
Sorry, that I need to have this broken down to such simpler terms. I often seem to leave an important detail out that makes my "simple" plan blow up. So, I just want to make sure I fully get this. Thanks.
psduser1
Active member
Yes, as you stated, it eliminates the stc fittings, and replaces them with jic fittings.
psduser1
Active member
Yes
m j
Active member
1. If I switch to the jic fittings, won't that eliminate all the o-rings in the quick fittings and therefore make the system a bit simpler?
- yes
2. Will there still be an o-rings where the jic fittings screw into the pump and into the heads? I realize the hoses will simply screw onto the fittings and that locktite will still be suggested at that junction.
- the pump and heads use an 'O-Ring Boss' style so yes they will still have orings. NO LOCKTITE anywhere. if anything you can put antisieze on the JIC threads but not on the ORB threads. the sealing surface on a JIC is between the threads and fluid, on the ORB the threads are exposed to fluid in the line so anything you put there is a contamination
3. Also, I think I read something on Bob Riley's Dieselsite page where the diameter of the line is important. So, I think I would want to just replace the line with the same size. Does anybody know what that size actually is?
- common size is -06 I wouldnt run anything else
- yes
2. Will there still be an o-rings where the jic fittings screw into the pump and into the heads? I realize the hoses will simply screw onto the fittings and that locktite will still be suggested at that junction.
- the pump and heads use an 'O-Ring Boss' style so yes they will still have orings. NO LOCKTITE anywhere. if anything you can put antisieze on the JIC threads but not on the ORB threads. the sealing surface on a JIC is between the threads and fluid, on the ORB the threads are exposed to fluid in the line so anything you put there is a contamination
3. Also, I think I read something on Bob Riley's Dieselsite page where the diameter of the line is important. So, I think I would want to just replace the line with the same size. Does anybody know what that size actually is?
- common size is -06 I wouldnt run anything else
hucorey
Member
-5 is the actual oem hose size.
If you feel more at ease, you can use loctite 242 or 243. Its removable strength and acts like a lockwasher. But its not necessary.
If you feel more at ease, you can use loctite 242 or 243. Its removable strength and acts like a lockwasher. But its not necessary.
gnxtc2
Active member
Since we're on the subject of hoses, what's a good hose to replace the hoses on the OBS trucks? The OBS trucks have JIC fittings, no quick connects on the HPOP. Would increasing from -5 to -6 do anything?
Is it better to replace the tight 90° fittings on the head with long radius hose ends? Would the hose ends flow better?
Dynoproven sells HPOP hoses but know the specs on them.
http://www.dynoproven.com/parts/ford-power-stroke/hpops/7-3l-upgraded-hpop-lines.html
Billy T.
[email protected]
Is it better to replace the tight 90° fittings on the head with long radius hose ends? Would the hose ends flow better?
Dynoproven sells HPOP hoses but know the specs on them.
http://www.dynoproven.com/parts/ford-power-stroke/hpops/7-3l-upgraded-hpop-lines.html
Billy T.
[email protected]
clydesdale
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The fact that the OBS uses JIC fittings on their pump makes me feel much more at ease about deleting the quick fits.
m j, I will look to see where it was that locktite was highly recommended. I thought for sure it was on the quick fits where they thread into the pump and into the heads.
Thanks for the help. I am getting a much better understanding of this and am leaning towards deleting the quick fits and just getting the ORB-JIC fittings and having hoses made or buying the kit form cncfabrication.com.
m j, I will look to see where it was that locktite was highly recommended. I thought for sure it was on the quick fits where they thread into the pump and into the heads.
Thanks for the help. I am getting a much better understanding of this and am leaning towards deleting the quick fits and just getting the ORB-JIC fittings and having hoses made or buying the kit form cncfabrication.com.
m j
Active member
the pump fitting is a steel fitting threading in to an aluminum pump. that is already a bad thing. I wouldnt want to make removal any more likely to strip the threads out of the pump
clydesdale
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Ok, sounds like threadlock will be out. What fittings will I need?
Is below correct:
for the pump side -6ORB to -5JIC straight coupler - quantity 2
for the head side -5ORB to -5JIC straight coupler - 1 quantity of 90 degrees and 1 quantity of straight?
Then two hoses that have -5 hoses that have 90 degree on one end and straight on the other?
Is below correct:
for the pump side -6ORB to -5JIC straight coupler - quantity 2
for the head side -5ORB to -5JIC straight coupler - 1 quantity of 90 degrees and 1 quantity of straight?
Then two hoses that have -5 hoses that have 90 degree on one end and straight on the other?
hucorey
Member
Dont take this as arrogance please. But i have 20yrs experience in fluid power maintenance and have been through a lot of Loctite training. There are dozens of types of loctite compounds varying from RTV type sealants, thread retaining compounds and many others.
Loctite 243 actually is used on the HPOP s from the factory at the O-ring fittings. It is there for vibration absorption. It is NOT meant to be used as a sealant. Same as the non-servicable plug with an oring. I cant remember which one though, but i think its 272.
Never use sealant on JIC fittings. It does nothing. Or AN fittings. NPT or BSPP or BSPT are a few that require thread sealant.
psduser1
Active member
Tat will allow you to use factory obs hose. If you want aftermarket hose, I'd recommend #6 Jic fittings. I know parker doesn't carry a #5 hose, at least not commonly. You could order it, but that would defeat the simplicity part of it. #5 fittings are available, once again, may have to order them, if you are dealing with a hydraulic supplier.
Hotrodtractor
Moderator
If your factory hoses don't leak - then don't touch them. Leave them alone.
Take no offense by this - but you seem to be asking a lot of questions and are really unsure of things - mostly because you are inexperienced, but yet want to make sure to have the most reliable vehicle you can have for the long haul. You have just as much of a chance of causing problems by messing with it (as far as leaks go) as you do of having the stock lines start leaking.
Don't touch them until you have issues.
Take no offense by this - but you seem to be asking a lot of questions and are really unsure of things - mostly because you are inexperienced, but yet want to make sure to have the most reliable vehicle you can have for the long haul. You have just as much of a chance of causing problems by messing with it (as far as leaks go) as you do of having the stock lines start leaking.
Don't touch them until you have issues.
clydesdale
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Not offended at all. I have asked a lot of clarifying questions to calm my paranoia. I have run at too many "simple" projects that then end up having unforeseen consequeces which could have been avoided with a little more research.
Now that I understand more about this, I see that switching to JIC is a much simpler concept than I first thought. I thought that the quick fits were necessary for pressure reasons, vibration or such. So, I planned to replace the quick fit hoses. Then I find out that the quick fit fittings have o-rings in themselves and those fittings should be rebuilt in addition to the o-rings at the heads and pump.
I also didn't want to get into the idea of "modding" something that was perfectly engineered and replace it with something less stout. I also have never had to touch the HPO system and the truck is not even located at my house, so other than in videos, I haven't been able to take a look at what we are talking about.
In addition, I have all stock hoses and o-rings since Sept/2001. So, I think I should get to this before it starts leaking.
Now that I have a better understanding, I think by replacing all the fittings with JIC fittings it will be less complicated and therefore more reliable in theory, as long as I buy the right hoses. I do appreciate everyone's help in simplifying this down for me.
Now that I understand more about this, I see that switching to JIC is a much simpler concept than I first thought. I thought that the quick fits were necessary for pressure reasons, vibration or such. So, I planned to replace the quick fit hoses. Then I find out that the quick fit fittings have o-rings in themselves and those fittings should be rebuilt in addition to the o-rings at the heads and pump.
I also didn't want to get into the idea of "modding" something that was perfectly engineered and replace it with something less stout. I also have never had to touch the HPO system and the truck is not even located at my house, so other than in videos, I haven't been able to take a look at what we are talking about.
In addition, I have all stock hoses and o-rings since Sept/2001. So, I think I should get to this before it starts leaking.
Now that I have a better understanding, I think by replacing all the fittings with JIC fittings it will be less complicated and therefore more reliable in theory, as long as I buy the right hoses. I do appreciate everyone's help in simplifying this down for me.
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