body shop hurt my engine.....

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

Ok, so I got into a wreck with a Scion back in June..... He T-boned me, first hitting the front axle on the passenger side, then dragging down my doors a and cab, and bed side, and dually fenders. No issue, because that happened in Savannah, GA, and I drove it home to NC. I had to drive pretty slow, as the adjustable track bar was bent pretty bad, and my alignment was off... I dealt with the insurance co, and got it to a body shop that I had used before.

3 months later, when my truck is almost ready for pickup, they call me and tell me that my turbo is blown. It just started blowing extreme amounts of white smoke. The alignment shop that they brought it to, replaced over a gallon of oil in the engine, that had all blown out the tail pipe. Everything seemed to point to a blown turbo....

I started it, and attempted to limp it home, and within 1/4 mile, I heard a subtle "POP", and the engine stalled, and I had it towed home, again, I still assumed blown turbo... Only code that would pop up was:

P0016 Crankshaft/camshaft misalignment/sync

Insurance wont cover my turbo, so, I had one stashed that Gare was kind enough to keep after his turbo swap, and Jason 2nd day aired it to me (at $180, thanks bro!) And I swapped the turbo out. Now, there is a bit of shaft play on the old turbo (after 278,000 miles of abuse, I figured it would be worse. New turbo installed, and no start....

P0016 Crankshaft/camshaft misalignment/sync

hmmmmm so, if a new turbo didn't get her running, what in the f#@^.....

Upon further inspection, I found the issue... When they lowered the bed, they crushed my CCV tubing in between the bed and frame rails.

Now it all makes sense. Oil blowing everywhere, as the air built up pressure inside the block, and they turbo was the only place that it could escape.... so, I am about to get nasty with the body shop, as to liability for this new damage.... But,

what in the hell is wrong with my truck now? I just want it running... I checked all plugs, removed and replaced the Cam sensor (what a pain in the azz....) and I have zero chance of swapping out the crank sensor (as I am not double or triple jointed)

Anyone ever seen this? Anyone know what in the hell could be the culprit? Is my engine most likely shot? Or is this a quick easy fix (not likely, as I am not that lucky....)

 

[jimdawg185]

I'd run a power balance, with that much oil going through the engine you may have jacked something else up. I'd do oil pressure test as well. Hopefully it's nothing that bad, but loosing a gallon of oil in a 13 quart system isn't great. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

I'd run a power balance, with that much oil going through the engine you may have jacked something else up. I'd do oil pressure test as well. Hopefully it's nothing that bad, but loosing a gallon of oil in a 13 quart system isn't great. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What is a power balance?

 

[jimdawg185]

What is a power balance?

Cylinder Contribution. Who's got IDS or AE near you. If you were anywhere close to me I'd run it for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

Cylinder Contribution. Who's got IDS or AE near you. If you were anywhere close to me I'd run it for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ahhh, gotcha. Im currently working on that... LOL

 

[TyCorr]

Oh boy...i hate to say it corb but if that oil was being forced through the cylinders and not past the seals inside the turbo you could have bent or broken a rod, cracked a piston, or in extreme cases they overfilled the crankcase and you heard the engine compress oil and the crank is broke.

I could be waaaaaay wrong and i hope for your sake I am. But that code has me wondering.

Did you try draining the oil and taking a sample somewhere?

 

[sootie]

i hope you got pictures of the line squished Corb.....that body shop needs to pay!

 

[Dzchey21]

yeah that's really on them I think.

As far as the engine is it cranking? or does it lock up?

 

[Hotrodtractor]

Ouch. Major gray area..... yes them squishing the CCV hose is on them... they informed you of an issue that left everyone scratching their heads.... but the choice to drive it home is what caused the damage. I don't know how it all will shake out - but I certainly hope it goes well for you.

 

[sideactiondiesel]

what is the oil level at corb???

Im going on a whim here... but check the oil level if high can be hitting the bottom of the pistons causing a loss in motion and slowing down the crankshaft as it goes around causing this code to be set.

Let me know what you find.

 

[TyCorr]

Thats kinda what i was getting at. Had a duramax that was overfilled and it wound up getting oil into a cylinder and kaplooey.

 

[Luke@MillerPerformance]

A plugged/crushed/blocked crank case vent would start blowing seals way before it pushed passed rings. I had a 6.4 come in a few weeks back that someone had ghetto rigged the ccv to the exhaust at the wrong angle. Pressurized the crankcase so bad it blew the drain out of the high pressure turbo. Was driven over 8 hours that way.

Your best bet is to deal with insurance on it. At the end of the day they are responsible for returning the vehicle back to you in pre-accident condition. If the body shop did make a mistake, they are supposed to deal with them on it.

 

[gnxtc2]

Never let body shops do mechanical/electrical work.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

yeah that's really on them I think.

As far as the engine is it cranking? or does it lock up?

It spins with the starter, but the injectors arent firing. FRP is fine, but Inj Test on IDS says that injectors arent firing. Done volt test on Cam and Crank sensor plus, all checks out at 5 volts.

Motor ran as we turned key and supplied Carb cleaner into atmo turbo.

Jason Gardner is with me in NC with his IDS. And Morgan Primm has been assisting via phone call.

All points to mechanical issue, as all electrical checks out. Possible Cam Gear sheared the alignment pin....

fvck me running.... Waiting response back from USAA insurance company now...

 

[Wayne]

Here's your list of possible causes for a P0016:

Damaged CKP sensor
Damaged CMP sensor
Missing CKP signal
Noisy CKP signal
Missing CMP signal
Noisy CMP signal
Base engine concerns

Start by seeing if rpm will go above 150 while cranking. IF you have that, you're off to a good start. Next, check voltage at the CKP sensor on the harness. connect your volt meter to pins 1 & 2. You should have between 4.5-5.5 v. with the key in the on position. If you don't, better find out why and fix it. After you know you have your 5v at the sensor connector, check the signal wire to the pcm. It's pin 3. Next, check resistance in that wire with the key off. probe pin 3 in the crank sensor harness connector, an in the pcm connector at pin 33. you should have less than 5 ohms. If that's good, check short to ground, and short to power. Also check pins in the connectors for damage. If it has a broken crank, damaged sensor, or whatever, you could have issues there. Lots of possibilities really.

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

Here's your list of possible causes for a P0016:

Damaged CKP sensor
Damaged CMP sensor
Missing CKP signal
Noisy CKP signal
Missing CMP signal
Noisy CMP signal
Base engine concerns

Start by seeing if rpm will go above 150 while cranking. IF you have that, you're off to a good start. Next, check voltage at the CKP sensor on the harness. connect your volt meter to pins 1 & 2. You should have between 4.5-5.5 v. with the key in the on position. If you don't, better find out why and fix it. After you know you have your 5v at the sensor connector, check the signal wire to the pcm. It's pin 3. Next, check resistance in that wire with the key off. probe pin 3 in the crank sensor harness connector, an in the pcm connector at pin 33. you should have less than 5 ohms. If that's good, check short to ground, and short to power. Also check pins in the connectors for damage. If it has a broken crank, damaged sensor, or whatever, you could have issues there. Lots of possibilities really.

Jason ran down all of those, almost exactly as you listed them, as possible issues as per IDS. Now, injectors not firing, at all, they fail the inj test on IDS. Only thing that would keep the injectors from firing, is the sync being so far off, that the PCM wont allow them to fire... which is leading us to believe that the back fire that occurred as the truck stalled, was due to "hyro lock" scenario, as the cylinders were full of oil, and sheared off the dowl pin, and alignment of the cam gear... Any other possibilities or suggestions are welcome...

Ive submitted list of issues to USAA (Ins Co) and they are coming up with a resolution, but wont get back to me until tomorrow...

 

[Wayne]

Yeah, fun. so if it's not currently hydrolocked, and all the electrical circuits pass, you have rpm signal, it could very well have slipped the cam gear or broke something sensor related.

 

[TyCorr]

The motor should come out either way. At least in ny opinion.

 

[sideactiondiesel]

In my opinion there is no reason that it would sheer the cam pin.. even hydrolocked the pushrods will bend before ....sheer pin in my opinion there is no force on cam gear because of a hydrolock yes valves opening but if this is the case bend rocker arm will result.

This is just my o2

 

[Bustedknuckles]

Crank gear spun i bet. Theres a build thread on hear right now because of that exact code! Nothing to do with the CCV tube being pinched, just a unfortunate coincidence.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk