Brute66 opinions

[Carolina444]

Looking for input from guys that have first hand experience with the brute66..
dont want to hear " just go to t4 kit".. This is what I'm wanting out of the truck.

500-550hp
Clears up 230/100's
Managble egt's
Good spool up (truck is my daily driver)
Durability

Any info would be great
Thanks

 

[blaze42069]

Popular opinion here is to get a 1.00 turbine housing. I got a d66 (pretty much same as a brute) with a WW2 and 1.15 turbine housing. Hitting 38lbs of boost but more laggy than stock turbo. WW2 seems more laggy too but has higher boost than stock d66 wheel. I'm running 160/100s with all theses turbos.

 

[Jennifer@Dieselsite]

Still an E99 setup or did you convert?

You could definitely go bigger and you'd be pushing the upper limits of what that turbo should be running BUT if you're still on that E99 setup then this is really only the option you have for a drop in (or any 66 mm GTP38 for that matter...).

The upgraded bearings are supposedly super reliable (I've never heard 40 PSI reliable, but I do know guys taking them to 35 and have no issues to date) over the stock and I'm pretty sure their turbos already come with upgraded wheels so bonus!

If it's a true GTP38 then it should be just as durable (and rebuildable!), the spool should be fine since you'll have the fuel for the bigger wheel, and the airflow should help you clear up any smoke. I'm unsure about the EGTs with that setup... I'm sorry. I'd stick with their 1.15 to be safe though given your inj size.

I dunno if they do something special versus all the other 66 mm GTP38s on the market but it is still just a GTP38 - different bearing, different compressor wheel/housing. This is both its cons and pros; it will have limits. Keep that in mind with your decision.

Hope any of this helps!

 

[Carolina444]

Still an E99 setup or did you convert?

You could definitely go bigger and you'd be pushing the upper limits of what that turbo should be running BUT if you're still on that E99 setup then this is really only the option you have for a drop in (or any 66 mm GTP38 for that matter...).

The upgraded bearings are supposedly super reliable (I've never heard 40 PSI reliable, but I do know guys taking them to 35 and have no issues to date) over the stock and I'm pretty sure their turbos already come with upgraded wheels so bonus!

If it's a true GTP38 then it should be just as durable (and rebuildable!), the spool should be fine since you'll have the fuel for the bigger wheel, and the airflow should help you clear up any smoke. I'm unsure about the EGTs with that setup... I'm sorry. I'd stick with their 1.15 to be safe though given your inj size.

I dunno if they do something special versus all the other 66 mm GTP38s on the market but it is still just a GTP38 - different bearing, different compressor wheel/housing. This is both its cons and pros; it will have limits. Keep that in mind with your decision.

Hope any of this helps!

It's still on the e99 stuff.. They claim peak boost @40 and 600hp, just hoping to find someone running one and happy with it

 

[Carolina444]

Popular opinion here is to get a 1.00 turbine housing. I got a d66 (pretty much same as a brute) with a WW2 and 1.15 turbine housing. Hitting 38lbs of boost but more laggy than stock turbo. WW2 seems more laggy too but has higher boost than stock d66 wheel. I'm running 160/100s with all theses turbos.

How's the egt's on that housing? will the 230/100 reduce some of that lag?

 

[blaze42069]

How's the egt's on that housing? will the 230/100 reduce some of that lag?

Never ran a 230/100. Egts are up there in the hot tune. The tow tune hits 1100 at full out for a long incline. The hot tune I hit 1250-1300 and back out of it. I blew out the stock thrust bearing towing in hot tune with 10000lbs and hammering on it. Now I dont play like that no more. Keep the tunes down.:doh: Saving for 300/200's and a 468. Then a new motor. LOL

 

[WILD_PHIL]

Still an E99 setup or did you convert?

You could definitely go bigger and you'd be pushing the upper limits of what that turbo should be running BUT if you're still on that E99 setup then this is really only the option you have for a drop in (or any 66 mm GTP38 for that matter...).

The upgraded bearings are supposedly super reliable (I've never heard 40 PSI reliable, but I do know guys taking them to 35 and have no issues to date) over the stock and I'm pretty sure their turbos already come with upgraded wheels so bonus!

If it's a true GTP38 then it should be just as durable (and rebuildable!), the spool should be fine since you'll have the fuel for the bigger wheel, and the airflow should help you clear up any smoke. I'm unsure about the EGTs with that setup... I'm sorry. I'd stick with their 1.15 to be safe though given your inj size.

I dunno if they do something special versus all the other 66 mm GTP38s on the market but it is still just a GTP38 - different bearing, different compressor wheel/housing. This is both its cons and pros; it will have limits. Keep that in mind with your decision.

Hope any of this helps!

Good info!

E99 F350/zf6/guages/arp/comp/stellite/ billet wheel/ bellowed... Need more fuel and more air.

 

[Carolina444]

Never ran a 230/100. Egts are up there in the hot tune. The tow tune hits 1100 at full out for a long incline. The hot tune I hit 1250-1300 and back out of it. I blew out the stock thrust bearing towing in hot tune with 10000lbs and hammering on it. Now I dont play like that no more. Keep the tunes down.:doh: Saving for 300/200's and a 468. Then a new motor. LOL

I can't find a whole lot on the brute but the other drop in 66's seem to battle with high egt's. Is it that they don't flow enough air?

 

[jeremiahmercier]

They don't spool efficiently, I hated my d66 due to high get, slow spooling, and smoke at lower rpms, 1.0 housing helped, but I would never do a stock style nodded turbo again

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Egt's not get

 

[jeremiahmercier]

Crap, modded...


Once turbo spooled it moved some air, but for daily driving and towing, I was always under the turbo efficiency range

 

[blaze42069]

Crap, modded...


Once turbo spooled it moved some air, but for daily driving and towing, I was always under the turbo efficiency range

This ^^^^^^^

 

[gnxtc2]

A Brute 66, a D66, a Barder diy66.....they're all the same.
They're an OBS/E99 turbo with a 66mm compressor wheel stuffed in it.

Did you read this:
http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51720

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[mattman347]

These drop in 66mm turbos work OK up to a stage 2 injector, anybody shooting for 500+ better find the same dyno that the sales person used for similar results. imp: In all honesty, you could make over 500 with one, but it will short lived and HOT while its doing it.

 

[mandkole]

just go to a T4 kit... :naughty:

You don't hear much about the Brute- just the old D66. If I was planning a change, Ive liked reports that guys have given on the BASB. Everyone reports strong responsiveness for towing .

 

[smokenstroker99]

I had a d66 with my 238/100 and hated it. As others stated it was hot and slow. It didn't light until 2100 or so


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DocBar]

I'm running a Brute66 right now and I like it OK. I get a little puff of light smoke when I take off, but other than that, it cleans up my 250/100's pretty good.

I only have a few thousand miles on it, but I have no EGT issues in the economy, tow or DD tunes. Hot street and hot are smokey (hot tune definitely the smokiest) and EGT's hit 1,600* pretty quick, but those are race tunes and only hit high temps at WOT. I wish I had gone with the 1.15 housing, though.
That will be corrected in the future.

I would think a lot of the lag and temp issues could be taken care of with tuning. My truck was live tuned at Dynoproven and I'm very happy with how it's running.

 

[Tim @ P.I.S.]

A Brute 66, a D66, a Barder diy66.....they're all the same.

Not exactly true. Some were built without a 360* thrust, but with a stocker. I was surprised too.

 

[jeremiahmercier]

I'm running a Brute66 right now and I like it OK. I get a little puff of light smoke when I take off, but other than that, it cleans up my 250/100's pretty good.

I only have a few thousand miles on it, but I have no EGT issues in the economy, tow or DD tunes. Hot street and hot are smokey (hot tune definitely the smokiest) and EGT's hit 1,600* pretty quick, but those are race tunes and only hit high temps at WOT. I wish I had gone with the 1.15 housing, though.
That will be corrected in the future.

I would think a lot of the lag and temp issues could be taken care of with tuning. My truck was live tuned at Dynoproven and I'm very happy with how it's running.

I've got zf5 and 3.55s with 287/75/16s, special tuning for out of the hole response with pulled back fueling probably would have gotten rid of some smoke and egts, but I need the out of the hole spool, and that's exactly what I got with the BASB,... On another note, I hated the 1.15, absolutely worse in every aspect except when WOT on interstate to pass, it had lower egts then, otherwise the 1.0 ran cooler, cleaner and spooled faster and better, was all around a better driving truck with 1.0

 

[jeremiahmercier]

285/75/16s, geese I'm terrible on this phone