Daily Driver / Tow Pig Build....

mjonesjr

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I decided it was time for a boost gauge and a triple pillar pod instead of the dual pod.

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I ran the tubing to the intake Y-pipe so I would have a more accurate boost read out. The directions say to put it in the MAP sensor boost line that comes off the passenger side intake manifold.


Now I know what kind of boost I am making. The most boost I saw driving today was 25 PSI. The boost gauge would jump around once I got above 18 PSI.
 

mjonesjr

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Everything I have read seemed to say with stock injectors it wouldn't make too much drive pressure for the engine.
 

mjonesjr

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I am only when mine crap out. No need to spend the money now.

I am going to keep my 1.15 housing for when I get new injectors.
 

96stacked&smoken

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ah thats a good idea. im doing the same im gona get everyhting else done so when i get injectors i wont have any weak links and can take full advanage of them
 

mjonesjr

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I can't see and advantage with the Adrinalins with stage 1 injectors.

I am going to wait to have my chip custom tuned until I get the injectors. I doubt custom tuning it now will do me any good with the mods I presently have.
 

mjonesjr

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I got the CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) mod done. The o-rings on my CCV was blowing through the seal between the valve cover and the vent case. I figured it was a good time to do the CCV mod while I had the vent off so I could turn it around to make it easier to run the tube.

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I also decided to cut the vent tube out of the factory air tube so I could use the factory mount for it.

I capped the factory CCV inlet with a 3/4" hose cap. It fit on there really tight, however I want ahead and put a clamp on it for extra measure

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For reference, the part numbers for the o-rings for the CCV is as follows:

Bolt O-Rings:
F4TZ-6769-A (2 o-rings needed, 1 per part number)

CCV to Valve Cover O-Rings:
F4TZ-6769-C (2 o-rings needed, 2 per part number)


Parts List for CCV mod:
1. 2x - F4TZ-6769-A
2. 1x - F4TZ-6769-C
3. 1x - 3/4" 90* Heater Hose plastic elbow
4. 3x - 7/8" to 1 1/4" hose clamps
5. 12' +/- 3/4" heater hose


Cost to do CCV mod this way was roughly $45.
 

bad12jr

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Check out terminator for an hpop. A t500 would be perfect for what you doing. A great price too.
 

96stacked&smoken

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yeah i didint now you were doing stage ones those are very mild. an aftermarket pump can make even a stock truck run better tho but if you can find a good used sd pump cheap thatd work to. it aint easy tho iv looked for awhile. iv heard mixed on the tuning a stockish truck. i plan on tuning it now cause you almost always get free reburns for life so might as well.lol made a big diff on my buddys stock 7.3 sd. nice job on the ccv btw.
 

mjonesjr

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Yea, stage 1's is all I will upgrade to. I want to still keep the truck as a daily driver and IMO anything larger than stage 1's is too big for that.
 

mjonesjr

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I got my Garrett 1.0 turbo housing today.

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I am going to put it on while I have the turbo off when I am installing my electric fuel conversion.

I have the 2 filters (water/fuel separator, and 2 micro fuel filter), 2 filter bases, regulator, oil pressure switch, fittings, and banjo block coming.
 

96stacked&smoken

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have fun getin that turbo off its a job gettin it off our trucks.one bolt on the pedestal is almost impossible. did you just peice your own kit together for the e fuel or buy it?
 

mjonesjr

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have fun getin that turbo off its a job gettin it off our trucks.one bolt on the pedestal is almost impossible. did you just peice your own kit together for the e fuel or buy it?
Yea, that is what I have heard. Luckily I can take it to my brothers to do the swap in his garage so if I have to leave it overnight I can drive one of his vehicles. Hopefully the complete fuel/turbo mods will take me a day; with my work schedule I should have plenty of time.

That's a great looking truck you've got there, nice work!
Thanks.



I grew a set of big cahona's today and drilled 15 holes in my roof to mount a set of cab lights.

I found them in a local junk yard and got them and the factory wiring harness for $15.

I had a tough time deciding how I was going to get to the center of the truck without standing on the cowl. I rigged up a little walk board between 2 work benches (yes the ladder is designed to work like this as well).

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Cab lights mocked in position. I used the masking tape to mark the roof and to keep from chipping the paint when I drilled. I got lucky that my brothers '89 F-350 with factory cab lights was parked next to mine in the garage so I could use his a measuring truck.

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I decided it was better to create my own wiring harness because drilling the roof to a size large enough to fit the factory wiring end through was something I didn't want to do; not to mention that snaking the wiring harness through the roof.

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Here is a finished product. Looks a ton better with the cab lights.

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I also got some more parts for my electric fuel conversion. Now just waiting on my pump and filters to get here. Both should be delivered on Thursday. I plan on doing the install next week.

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