Dana 60 conversion in progress.

[Tom S]

This is why I decided to use the new seals instead of just putting back in the old syle ones. As you can seen the inner shaft on the Dana 60 axle is pitted. As best I can tell some of that pitting was on the area where the seal would ride.



Once the outer flange on the seal is ground down there is nothing to keep the seal from getting pushed too far inboard which would compromise the seal. I think the seal would eat itself up in now time. My solution was to make a couple of PVC spacers that I glued flange of the seal.





If I had it to do over again I might have tracked down a speedy sleeve to repair that pitting on the shaft as those seals were a pain. I would guess the shaft could be welded up and turned down as well.

This is a shot of one of the old seals. Nasty gritty goo on it. I do not know how one could shove a shaft back through that mess and not cause a seal to fail.




Hey how did you like those outer axle seals Stang?

 

[Tom S]

On the plus side, I got the new ball joints pressed in. Raybestos Chassis grade 500-1048 and 505-1181. The pressed in really nice with just the right amount of pressure. The big washer was again needed to make the Harbor Freight ball joint press work.





I was also pleased with the extreme black chassis paint from Eastwood. It held up to the pressure of the ball joint press without a problem.

The carrier went back easy and all the bearings and gears looked fine.

 

[AZStang]

Tom,

I like your PVC spacers. I didn't use anything like that. I just stuck a screw driver in where you have the spacers while I installed the axles to keep the seal positioned properly. Know I just have to hope they stay put.

The outer seals are great. Easy to install and keeps all the debris out of the tube. Will definitely allow removing the axles in the future and not have to worry about shoving all that junk into the inner seals. (Mine came out looking like yours.)

Shawn

 

[BMac]

Looking great Tom...makes me want to pull mine apart just to clean up!

 

[03-Blue-Powerstroke]

Nice work! I hate doing ball joints.

 

[brewer]

Great work Tom, makes me rethink replacing the inner seals plus putting in the outers to avoid any leaks at all, as I had quite a dirty mess in my axle tubes like you. Have any pics of the washer/string tube cleaner?

 

[Tom S]

I used a piece or 1/2 thread alll with a washer between two nuts on the end to rake out some of the crap. I used that same thread all with a combination of washers to pull the inner seals in once I could finally get them started

I used a right angle drill with a small wire wheel on an extension to clean the tubes. I used that both dry to remove rust and with degreaser to get the gunk. I had to do that operation a few times. I finished off cleaning the tubes and the case out on the pressure washer. It looked pretty decent when all that was done. To finish it off I sprayed rust converting primer in the tubes to try and protect them.

I am really thinking about those outer seals that Cary suggested.

I did not think the ball joints themselves were too bad to press in and out. I was actually expecting it might be harder then it was. I was glad I had the press set as some of the tubes were helpful for seal driving.

 

[Tom S]

I had to add this in because I am annoyed. I ordered a few parts from Tellco4X4. They charged my credit card on the 23rd and finally today after I had to contact them said their supplier was out of stock for half my order. I am going to reorder from Northern Drivetrain as their service was way better.

 

[AZStang]

I had to add this in because I am annoyed. I ordered a few parts from Tellco4X4. They charged my credit card on the 23rd and finally today after I had to contact them said their supplier was out of stock for half my order. I am going to reorder from Northern Drivetrain as their service was way better.

Tom,

I ordered most all my parts from http://www.diffsonly.com/catalog/ with great success. They answered the phone every time and had great communication through email as well.

Shawn

 

[Tom S]

Slowly making some progress got these ready for paint today.



New 5/8" by 3-1/2" by 12" U-bolts from Denver Spring to install the 4" F-350 Rear Blocks. Also shown are the High Nuts and extra thick washers.

New Spicer Spindle 708085 to fix the dinged up by he blown hub

 

[Tom S]

Spicer 48903 stub 30 spine stub shaft.



Axle shafts rebuilt with new Spicer Life Series U-Joints about ready for paint.

 

[Tom S]

I got the rear sway bar in as well.

Raybestos rear sway bar end links and bushing for 1 1/8" sway bar 545-1212 links and 550-1132 bushings







It looks like there should not be an issue with the traction bars. The links are too long now with the F250 blocks still in there.

 

[Krause]

What rear sway bar is that Tom? And were did you get it/how much?

 

[Tom S]

It was off the donor truck I got my axle from. I just sandblasted it and all the hardware then repainted it. They are available aftermarket I do believe though.

 

[Chimera]

Awesome progress and work so far Tom!

How do you keep your truck so clean?! I swear yours looks like it rolled off the showroom floor still.

 

[Diesel_Brad]

Tom. Who's traction bars? Got any pics of how they mount?

 

[jwlandry]

Tom. Who's traction bars? Got any pics of how they mount?

:whs:

 

[Tom S]

Traction bars are mine but the mounts are pro-comp from Truck Source Diesel.

 

[jwlandry]

would you happen to have any more pics of them? I look like they have a slight bend in them. You can send em in a PM so it dont clutter your axel thread up.

 

[Tom S]

I will just make a fresh thread on them.