powerstroked08
Active member
Just my .02 but try cleaning the threads good and Teflon the them again and then run the Evans waterless coolant. Without the cooling system pressure to push the coolant up the stud. It should be good to go.
Found Dustin's Old Truck
- Thread starter powerstrokedkid87
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BOSS450
New member
Lol it is what it is. But I know I've been lucky. Just trying to help ithers
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
well found some interesting things last night,
Monday night we decided just for kicks lets fill the stud holes with diesel and see if we get lucky enough to get anything to leak out. in the couple hours that we were there nothing happened.
went to the shop yesterday and found that the first middle stud on the passenger side was completely drained out. so looks like we definitely have the normal crack in the block as well as the rear driver side lower crack as well.
Our plan since were running the MPD oil cooler plate is as follows
-If ford warranties the block (brand new block 500 miles on it, but its been bored and filled) then we will pull the motor and start over.
-when ford doesn't warranty is were going to clean everything up, seal the all of the studs not just the top 3 on each side, put it back together and run the block sealer through it and see if we can get lucky and get through next season doing frequent oil changes and keeping an eye on things, and in the mean time I have another block that we can prep and get ready and plan to tear the truck down next year and start fresh.
heads were dropped off at the machine shop today so were in a little bit of a wait right now but happy that at this point we atleast have a plan. My only concern with plan B is this motor is going to get the day lights beaten out of it so my concern is the sealer wont hold up to the abuse. any thoughts/
Monday night we decided just for kicks lets fill the stud holes with diesel and see if we get lucky enough to get anything to leak out. in the couple hours that we were there nothing happened.
went to the shop yesterday and found that the first middle stud on the passenger side was completely drained out. so looks like we definitely have the normal crack in the block as well as the rear driver side lower crack as well.
Our plan since were running the MPD oil cooler plate is as follows
-If ford warranties the block (brand new block 500 miles on it, but its been bored and filled) then we will pull the motor and start over.
-when ford doesn't warranty is were going to clean everything up, seal the all of the studs not just the top 3 on each side, put it back together and run the block sealer through it and see if we can get lucky and get through next season doing frequent oil changes and keeping an eye on things, and in the mean time I have another block that we can prep and get ready and plan to tear the truck down next year and start fresh.
heads were dropped off at the machine shop today so were in a little bit of a wait right now but happy that at this point we atleast have a plan. My only concern with plan B is this motor is going to get the day lights beaten out of it so my concern is the sealer wont hold up to the abuse. any thoughts/
Bustedknuckles
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I like this idea.
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
Looks like this is the direction we're Gona head
What has everyone used to seal the studs
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why did you bore a new block ?
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
I had ordered the .10 over pistons for a used block that I had and when it went to the machine shop we found it was cracked, didn't have time to really wait for new pistons so we bored the new one
not ideal but given the time frame and trying to get the truck done it was my only option at the time.
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
this is the stuff from locktite?
Wayne
Active member
If you've already filled the block at least part full, fill it up past the crack points in the water jackets, then put in a sealer. I can't remember the exact product, but the guys at swamps were very helpful when I did it last. It worked well. No more leaky leak
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
at this point im not planning on pulling the block out of the truck.
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
well if all goes well we should hopefully have this truck back together this weekend. well see how well the sealer is gona do.
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
Well il get some pictures up tomorrow but decided to pull the lifters before i started putting the heads back on....sure glad I did. Ended up finding bearing material. Decided time was better spent pulling the motor. pulled the pan and found a thrust bearing laying on top of the upper pan.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
holy ballz.. that sucks. but glad you found it now and not after the heads went on and you tried to start it..
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
imelmo
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Way off topic but what tire/wheel combo and size is that?
.
.
powerstrokedkid87
Active member
they are 20x12s -44 and a 305/45/20 nitto 420
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
squirrel
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
PrecisionEngine
Member
That's the second or third motor I've read on this site that has chucked the thrust bearing within the last year. Seems like it was not so common before.
Let us know if you find any more carnage that points to reason why.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Let us know if you find any more carnage that points to reason why.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
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