Help me fix my EGT issues

TyCorr

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I bought the truck with just a super chips, I've every single other mod myself. I've hooked up my air compressor to the intake and pumped her up, sprayed soapy water on the boots, intake manifold etc, nada, no bubbling. Have the international bellowed pipes, no leaks I've checked, low smoke output. Gauges are the auto meter C2 which use the stepper motor movement. I believe it to be accurate. The water injection, was just a aem kit one size fits all type of deal. I don't think it ever worked. I MAY have left one of those blue shop towel paper towels in the intake once because I pulled the intake pipe once and found similar looking fibers in the internal ring thing by the impeller of the turbo. Ohhhh and forgot to add the T500 to my Sig

The gauge interprets the signal it gets. Autometer uses junk sensors. Their ***kin pyrometers are worthless. I spent damn near a grand chasing high egts towing only to find out that the probe was crap. And the replacement one. The third one worked. I figured out that the two showing 1000 deg, empty doing about 60mph were wrong the third one that said 700 was better. And I ran it up to 100ish at wot in a race tune and it may have tickled 1300 deg.

To the op, I have 3.73 and 35s and you have a unique issue to deal with in that towing you are in a bad spot power wise for egts. You have to run 80 in overdrive to be in the meat of the powerband. Or run 55 and lock out od. I know exactly what you are up against! I had to have Bill adjust my tuning and then it was about 900 flat to the floor with a 20k lb trailer on a grade. This was in a 65hp heavy tow tune. It was fueled a bit harder than stock.

I did NOT have the issue with 175/80s. They were cool all over. Occasionally id be doing something stupid towing and floor it locked out in od and it would lug and build some high egts but other than that, stone cool. That also was with PHP tuning.
 

backwoodsboy

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I never had an issue with my Autometer gauges. The pyrometer read within ~50 degrees of my CTS, and I always attributed that difference to their placement in the manifold.
I should note that mine were the Phantom series and Made in the USA. I'm sure the quality of their import line is much lower.
They aren't Isspro's by any means, but comparing them to glow**** isn't fair.
 

SDS97_7.3

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The gauge interprets the signal it gets. Autometer uses junk sensors. Their ***kin pyrometers are worthless. I spent damn near a grand chasing high egts towing only to find out that the probe was crap. And the replacement one. The third one worked. I figured out that the two showing 1000 deg, empty doing about 60mph were wrong the third one that said 700 was better. And I ran it up to 100ish at wot in a race tune and it may have tickled 1300 deg.

To the op, I have 3.73 and 35s and you have a unique issue to deal with in that towing you are in a bad spot power wise for egts. You have to run 80 in overdrive to be in the meat of the powerband. Or run 55 and lock out od. I know exactly what you are up against! I had to have Bill adjust my tuning and then it was about 900 flat to the floor with a 20k lb trailer on a grade. This was in a 65hp heavy tow tune. It was fueled a bit harder than stock.

I did NOT have the issue with 175/80s. They were cool all over. Occasionally id be doing something stupid towing and floor it locked out in od and it would lug and build some high egts but other than that, stone cool. That also was with PHP tuning.

I wouldn't automatically say Autometer is junk, the ones in my 97 have been great, while my dads Isspros have been junk in his 99.

But I would check the gauge/probe. And you're positive there are no boost/exhaust leaks? Even in the intercooler?
 

TyCorr

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I wouldn't automatically say Autometer is junk, the ones in my 97 have been great, while my dads Isspros have been junk in his 99.

But I would check the gauge/probe. And you're positive there are no boost/exhaust leaks? Even in the intercooler?

I would say they are junk. This set I have have been nothing BUT trouble. No bs. I have a set in my 95 eclipse that still work well if you go out and throw a battery in the car.

I went to no limit racing (not to be confused with Mike Dillehays business or nltd either) and Mark told me to stay away from some of the led lit autometers. So I chose the z series. Yea, they blow. I had fog in two of them that wouldnt go away. They offered to take them apart and "see whats going in" on my dime. Two whole weeks after they left autometer. I chose to continue to support them since they are about 40 minutes from the house. I called and called and got no where. Piss on them. Thats reason enough to never tilt a nickel toward them. Thats what they call piss poor. In every aspect. The trans gauge, all the black shti came off the aluminum bezel just from handling it during install.
 

lariat 7.3

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ill throw a friends egt gauge in real quick and ill get back to you, i've never had a problem with them i dont think, always read 400 when i pull up somewhere and idles to to under 400 in about a minute etc
 

gnxtc2

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I never had an issue with my Autometer gauges. The pyrometer read within ~50 degrees of my CTS, and I always attributed that difference to their placement in the manifold.
I should note that mine were the Phantom series and Made in the USA. I'm sure the quality of their import line is much lower.
They aren't Isspro's by any means, but comparing them to glow**** isn't fair.

I wouldn't automatically say Autometer is junk, the ones in my 97 have been great, while my dads Isspros have been junk in his 99.

But I would check the gauge/probe. And you're positive there are no boost/exhaust leaks? Even in the intercooler?

I would say they are junk. This set I have have been nothing BUT trouble. No bs. I have a set in my 95 eclipse that still work well if you go out and throw a battery in the car.

I went to no limit racing (not to be confused with Mike Dillehays business or nltd either) and Mark told me to stay away from some of the led lit autometers. So I chose the z series. Yea, they blow. I had fog in two of them that wouldnt go away. They offered to take them apart and "see whats going in" on my dime. Two whole weeks after they left autometer. I chose to continue to support them since they are about 40 minutes from the house. I called and called and got no where. Piss on them. Thats reason enough to never tilt a nickel toward them. Thats what they call piss poor. In every aspect. The trans gauge, all the black shti came off the aluminum bezel just from handling it during install.

Very interesting......

I had VDO gauges (EGT, trans temp, boost) in my truck for over 10 years. Until this spring, I replaced the gauges with Autometer's Factory Match gauges. The VDO EGT gauge was real sluggish compared to the Autometer one. The Autometer gauge is very responsive. I do not know if it is accurate.

My friend has Isspro's in his truck. The ISSPRO EGT gauge would go instantly to the red climbing a hill one block long. Now the same gauge reads 100* idling which I know is wrong.

Soooo how quick does the EGT rise?

Billy T.
[email protected]
 

TARM

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Just remember someones opinion may differ with yours as its their personal experience with the gauges they used. For some that is an experience of one gauge set, some it may be a few. That needs to be taken into account. Also the gauge vs the sensor/probe as wel is something to consider. I think they all contract out for the sensors and probes so it could vary in that area lot to lot and who they use. That could be a way to cut overhead.

I have run all sorts of gauges over the years. Right now I am running IssoPro Performax line which IMO is the very top in aftermarket automotive gauges. But they are still running the same sensors and probes etc as the others in there EV2 line as they are all electronic and use steppers. Perf so far with the few I have installed so far is awesome. What is also nice is if you have any issues we have Joe (CSPID) here as the resident guru and point of contact if you need it. He seems to always be willing to help others out and has gone out of his way for me more than once now.

I will say this after running autometer gauges for a number of years prior, they seem to vary more in quality than the use to. I do not know if they switched parts suppliers or moved things to China of if they have been their for a long time or whatever, I never bothered to check. But some people have gotten great results and others with the exact same line have gotten crap and this seems to be happening more over say the last 4 or so years ( not sure why). I had one set from years ago that you simply could not kill. It was in a '66 stang coupe stroked 351W to 408. I was running a total of 8 gauges and they all worked flawlessly for 8 yrs and the guy I sold it to ( biggest mistake I ever made in vehicles; should have kept it) still had them, had the motor out to be rebuilt and back in, all still working great. So 10-12 yrs since I lost contact and ran flawlessly. Recommended them to a friend and he had nothing but trouble with them 2 yrs ago and had to dump them and get some others. Go figure.

Not that IssoPro is flawless, none are, but I have had great experience not only wit the gauges so far but in terms of CS. I got a used performax ESP which is basically the brains (computer system)of the whole system and the most costly part. Got a email from I forget who from IssoPro letting me know if I had any issues or needed any help to let them know. If something was wrong with the ESP they would take care of it under warranty. That is standing behind your product.

So far that has been my experience with the company and their product. Also it is by far the nicest cleanest install setup for gauges I have ever run. Only 3 wires go thru the firewall and your gauges daisy chain into that seires of wires. No big wad of wires trying to push your gauges out or end up mashing the connectors and screwing up the gauges.

The ESP is built like a IDM. Sealed, water proof, and built like a brick. I still need to decide on my final mounting location but its easy and there are a few possibilities. All the sensor/probe leads go to it and the 3 wires go into the cab. Well I guess its 4 as you do have the one lead to go for the dimmer control IIRC as I installed it last fall. Joe (CSPID) can correct me on it if I got it wrong.

You also get some basic data logging you can upload to a PC from those gauges and can set up warning signals to alert you such as EGT temp, oil and fuel psi, trans temp limits. For me fuel psi for these engines is critical as getting it low and keep running it and you could ruin the barrel and plunger on all your injectors. Trans temp especially a the cost of a BTS is something I want to know if it hits 220-225 without me catching it for some reason.

So far I am running and/or finishing hooking up only basic ones trans temp, fuel psi, egt, boost. I plan to get oil pressure block, rear axle temp, coolant temp, turbine backpressure. Total of 7 gauges 4 pedestal 3 at the knee or overhead not sure which yet. All from the same 3 wires in the cab instead of 21+ wires if they were typical gauges.

The gauges and sensors are the same as teh EV2 line I would expect the same accuracy and performace from this line as well.
 

TARM

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ill throw a friends egt gauge in real quick and ill get back to you, i've never had a problem with them i dont think, always read 400 when i pull up somewhere and idles to to under 400 in about a minute etc


You have to change out the probe as well. It could be one or the other or I guess both is possible as well. But of them my guess would be the probe is the more likely thing to fail as its the part thats seeing the abuse but of course the gauge could be out of spec and indicating constantly a few hundred higher than it really is or it could be a % skew as well. Best to check both.

If its not that then unless you missed something or did not describe it the same as I might see it I am not sure what else there is to check. Seriously that is why I feel it must be the not reporting the right numbers.

I take it you have no engine codes either when you plug AE or other compatible scanner in?

Honestly I hope its the gauge or probe as that is a cheap fast fix
 

lariat 7.3

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yeah i know, nope no codes when AE is hooked up just the usual crap that always comes up. I mistakenly told riff raff to drill a hole in the new up pipes for a pyro. So i've been running a pipe plug in it. So i can actually run the gauges side by side and see a comparison
 

lariat 7.3

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THats why its SOOOO irritating, i look at the exhaust side and almost wish i see stuff leaking so then i'd know what the hell is going on.
 

79jasper

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Stupid facking Tapatalk. 😠
Let's try this again.
The further you get from the engine, the cooler the Temps will be.
So if your current probe is in the manifold, and the test one will be in the up-pipe, it'll definitely read lower.
Auburn instruments makes some nice pyrometers.
Interested to see the outcome.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

pilot4life

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Check your gauge/probe. I was chasing an EGT issue too after turbo/injector upgrades, no silver bullet fix for me but a lot of little ones. After I installed my Snow water kit I noticed that the Snow kit read 150 degrees cooler(weird as the snow kit was closer to the exhaust manifold) than my auto meter gauge so I sent the auto meter in. They should have it today and I will let you know if they found an issue. It was also a stepper motor gauge as well.
 
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