My 7.3 issues

[lincolnlocker]

sounds like the turbo is not healthy in the second video.. but the sound quality isnt the greatest on my phone.. whats battery voltage doing at idle?

live life full throttle

 

[lincolnlocker]

looks like up pipes are leaking bad too

live life full throttle

 

[bluedge8]

As far as your hard start, gpr, uvch, and glow plugs is what I did to mine to get it to start better. Mine still doesn't start super cold but it will fire at zero on its own. Before I did the above it would barely start at 45 deg. The smoke coming from the filler is somewhat normal, based on the oil filler cap test you don't have extreme blowby, that motor should live a while.

 

[ja_cain]

Dude, that thing cranks over nice with those new batts. I second what Lincoln said, I think you have turbo/uppipe issues. I don't think I can make my truck smoke like that in neutral even when cold and I have somewhat leaky up-pipes.

It would be nice to have some sort of led or current meter on the gpr so you knew for sure it was energizing/working when you were trying to start the truck. I've used some flat/rectangular panel meters at work that would be nice to mount in the cab. Sorry if this sounds like a stupid idea but so many people have issues with the gp system that it just seems like a no brainer to me.

 

[mn_sclb]

I had a gpr109 ordered to Napa, I like that gpr signal idea. I'll have to see if they have any lights that'll work for that


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[bad12jr]

I have mine on a push button with an led on the glow plug side of the relay. Works great. Got the idea from a guy I work with. His is still hooked up normal but has the led hooked up the same way.

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[Arisley]

Five volt LED from Radio Shack.

Oops, if you can find one.

 

[ja_cain]

The led is a no brainer but the meter would be even better as you would be able to detect if any of your gp's are out or going out.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Dude, that thing cranks over nice with those new batts. I second what Lincoln said, I think you have turbo/uppipe issues. I don't think I can make my truck smoke like that in neutral even when cold and I have somewhat leaky up-pipes.

It would be nice to have some sort of led or current meter on the gpr so you knew for sure it was energizing/working when you were trying to start the truck. I've used some flat/rectangular panel meters at work that would be nice to mount in the cab. Sorry if this sounds like a stupid idea but so many people have issues with the gp system that it just seems like a no brainer to me.

gonna hook a meter to each glow plug? if you tied in a volt meter flfrom side to side of the gpr, only thing it would show is if there was a significant drop. and btw, if key on power from post to post is more than .25, yes that is 1/4 of a volt, different, then the gpr needs replaced..

The led is a no brainer but the meter would be even better as you would be able to detect if any of your gp's are out or going out.

live life full throttle

 

[ja_cain]

I was thinking a shunt style ammeter. There should be a significant drop in current if one or more isn't working. There are also hall effect sensor ammeters that can measure current flow too without actually being wired in. Never used one other than a clamp on style though.

 

[ja_cain]

Here is an example of what I was thinking of using. I think full draw of gp's are below 100 amps but cant remember. I'll try to measure it here in a little bit. Should be pretty accurate at 80c and below. Not sure what the underhood temps are, but shunts will start to anneal up around 100c I think.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GL...+amp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=412XKZ4cYtL&ref=plSrch

 

[lincolnlocker]

holy hell man! you are out in space talking like that.. just make one and mass produce it as a plug and play and you could make millions..... way to technical...

I was thinking a shunt style ammeter. There should be a significant drop in current if one or more isn't working. There are also hall effect sensor ammeters that can measure current flow too without actually being wired in. Never used one other than a clamp on style though.

Here is an example of what I was thinking of using. I think full draw of gp's are below 100 amps but cant remember. I'll try to measure it here in a little bit. Should be pretty accurate at 80c and below. Not sure what the underhood temps are, but shunts will start to anneal up around 100c I think.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GL...+amp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=412XKZ4cYtL&ref=plSrch

live life full throttle

 

[pullandpray]

Here is an example of what I was thinking of using. I think full draw of gp's are below 100 amps but cant remember. I'll try to measure it here in a little bit. Should be pretty accurate at 80c and below. Not sure what the underhood temps are, but shunts will start to anneal up around 100c I think.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GL...+amp+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=412XKZ4cYtL&ref=plSrch

Personally that is to bulky for me, you could get one of those current based relays that clamp on the wire and are adjustable of how much current will activate the contacts. Then just put a light on the dash, as long as you have the set current draw it will come on

 

[ja_cain]

Personally that is to bulky for me, you could get one of those current based relays that clamp on the wire and are adjustable of how much current will activate the contacts. Then just put a light on the dash, as long as you have the set current draw it will come on

I just pulled that out of my azz as an example. You could allways use an analog gauge that would probably have a smaller footprint. Do the current based relays use a Hall effect sensor or a coil? That sounds like a a much better option with just a small led.

Sorry if my idea was way out there. I must have been over analeyezing again.

 

[pullandpray]

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/AIROTRONICS-Relay-21EU16

Here is just an example this one is cool because it's self powered there is a bunch of different ones. There are smaller ones. But most take 30vdc. But I'm betting the 24vdc under the hood would run one. you can find them for like 20 bucks if you search around

 

[ja_cain]

Cool. Those are the coil type. That looks much easier. Then you can just throw a clamp meter on to get the actual reading once the light comes on.

 

[Arisley]

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/AIROTRONICS-Relay-21EU16

Here is just an example this one is cool because it's self powered there is a bunch of different ones. There are smaller ones. But most take 30vdc. But I'm betting the 24vdc under the hood would run one. you can find them for like 20 bucks if you search around

There is only 12VDC under the hood. Our batteries are hooked up in parallel. It doubles the amperage not the voltage.

If they were hooked up in series, it would double the voltage and not the amperage.

Hooked in series:

Hooked in parallel like our trucks are:

 

[pullandpray]

I'm aware of this arisley, i was just saying there is 24v potential under the hood with some diodes you could get 24v for the relay and still have the regular 12v system

 

[Arisley]

I see.

 

[pullandpray]

I see.

LOL sorry I geek out on electrical **** and don't explain it very well I do it for a living, I didn't even think someone could read that and think we had 24v system on are trucks thanKS for explaining it:thumbsup: