My 7.3 issues

Arisley · Apr 12, 2015

Yeah, I was an Electronics Warfare System tech in the Air Force. I went through a year of electronics school. Eight hours a day, five days a week, pure electronics, every thing from vacuum tubes to then current military electronics.

ja_cain · Apr 12, 2015

pullandpray said:
LOL sorry I geek out on electrical **** and don't explain it very well I do it for a living, I didn't even think someone could read that and think we had 24v system on are trucks thanKS for explaining it:thumbsup:

I can totally relate to geeking out.

The military vehicles I used to work on had a 24 volt system.

I would like to think that with all of the hard start issues I see pop up, this would be value added info. It may be a little overkill but so is a street driven 600 hp truck to some people. No kill like overkill.

mn_sclb · Apr 12, 2015

All of the electrical stuff is waaay over my head lol. I was thinking more along the idea of two LEDs post gpr for each bank.. Maybe the ammeter idea too. But about the uppies, what would I be looking for as an indication ? I think what you guys were seeing is blowby from the valve cover being loose.. I just hand tightened the bolts in case it didn't start and I had to take them off again . I (tried to) take a video of the valley and turbo but I couldn't see soot, or any other indicator of a exhaust leak because it has fuel residue or possibly oil on it. https://vimeo.com/124757899

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ja_cain · Apr 12, 2015

I posted a pic of mine (mild leak) somewhere around here. I'll post em up here too once I find them on my phone.

ja_cain · Apr 13, 2015

Drivers side

Passenger side

mn_sclb · Apr 13, 2015

Thanks for the pictures! I'll have to look when I have some daylight available. I mentioned that it smokes at idle, it's barely noticeable at times unless the wind is blowing. I drove it today and it doesn't smoke while driving as far as I can tell, as it has 5% back windows. I've been reading and it could maybe be fuel pressure related? But it has power (until 3rd gear then it bogs, but that's a whole other issue.) so then my next best guess is an hpo problem, then injectors. The icp is almost full of oil so that needs to be replaced, if I unplug it while running the idle doesn't change but it does set of a CEL. So then my next best guess is the ipr. I unplugged it and tried to start and it ran the exact same.. Afaik it shouldn't be able to run without that unless it's stuck. So now that it runs, icp, ipr, fuel filter, hydroboost flush, and line replacement.

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mn_sclb · Apr 13, 2015

I pulled the codes that came after unplugging the ipr, they're all gone but here are the stored ones (there were not any before)

it may not be useful since I don't have the extended parameters

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ja_cain · Apr 14, 2015

Arisley said:
Yeah, I was an Electronics Warfare System tech in the Air Force. I went through a year of electronics school. Eight hours a day, five days a week, pure electronics, every thing from vacuum tubes to then current military electronics.

The military schools, in my opinion, are second to none. I was ground radio repair in the Marines. I hear you about the year long school and 8 hour school days. They used to PT the chit out of us too so it made it real hard to stay awake once the swamp coolers stopped working due to it being too hot outside. Those dry erase markers being hummed at you would wake you up real quick though. They still taught systems with vacuum tubes when I was going through too. Good stuff. That being said, I'm still just a hack at all of this. It's nice to know that there are real professionals on here.

Arisley · Apr 14, 2015

mn_sclb said:
Thanks for the pictures! I'll have to look when I have some daylight available. I mentioned that it smokes at idle, it's barely noticeable at times unless the wind is blowing. I drove it today and it doesn't smoke while driving as far as I can tell, as it has 5% back windows. I've been reading and it could maybe be fuel pressure related? But it has power (until 3rd gear then it bogs, but that's a whole other issue.) so then my next best guess is an hpo problem, then injectors. The icp is almost full of oil so that needs to be replaced, if I unplug it while running the idle doesn't change but it does set of a CEL. So then my next best guess is the ipr. I unplugged it and tried to start and it ran the exact same.. Afaik it shouldn't be able to run without that unless it's stuck. So now that it runs, icp, ipr, fuel filter, hydroboost flush, and line replacement.

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If idle did not change when you unplugged the IPR, that means it is bad.

And yes, those codes are unusable without the Ford add-on.

lincolnlocker · Apr 14, 2015

Arisley said:
If idle did not change when you unplugged the IPR, that means it is bad.

And yes, those codes are unusable without the Ford add-on.

ipr or icp sensor?

live life full throttle

Arisley · Apr 15, 2015

lincolnlocker said:
ipr or icp sensor?

live life full throttle

Oops, ICP.

lincolnlocker · Apr 15, 2015

Arisley said:
Oops, ICP.

old timers gettin to ya?

live life full throttle

mn_sclb · Apr 15, 2015

I unplugged the eot not the ipr when I unplugged the ipr it did not start. But the icp really doesn't do anything for idle other than a SES. I tried to get the kinda rough idle on video but it sounds very different from outside the cab. The really most noticeable it gets is that it skips on high idle (in the video) but if I rev up to 1100 myself it doesn't skiphttps://vimeo.com/125062659

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Arisley · Apr 15, 2015

If you unplugged the ICP and the idle didn't change, the ICP is bad. Or the wiring to the ICP.

lincolnlocker · Apr 15, 2015

Arisley said:
If you unplugged the ICP and the idle didn't change, the ICP is bad. Or the wiring to the ICP.

that's more like it sir

live life full throttle

ja_cain · Apr 15, 2015

lincolnlocker said:
old timers gettin to ya?

live life full throttle

Or CRS. (Can't remember chit) That's always my excuse.

lincolnlocker · Apr 15, 2015

ja_cain said:
Or CRS. (Can't remember chit) That's always my excuse.

lol

live life full throttle

mn_sclb · Apr 21, 2015

https://vimeo.com/125541531
Notice the oil pressure doesn't stay up for a few secs after shutdown. & it was fine yesterday, after that video it wouldn't start again. It takes like 5 secs for oil pressure to come up instead of basically immediately. It was running earlier @ 36° until I warmed it up. When I moved it I noticed it was kinda boggy and there was crackle.. Warming it helped but it still wasn't quite right . While running ipr was at like 10.2% and 470psi for hpo. I hope it's leaking honestly, it smokes (more like a haze) all the time the clearest it gets is on my highest tune. But I've only put on 20 miles since it's been running so I find it VERY hard to believe it burned that much in that time. It has to be leaking somewhere. The oil looked to be running off of my back of the block, more toward the passenger side. It leaves notebook sheet sized puddles of oil on the ground.

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mn_sclb · Apr 21, 2015

While I'm on problems, if I use high idle on the chip it kinda skips a bit. Sometimes it'll fix itself, other times I have to change the tune then go back to it . Imagine if you revved the engine to 1100 then you pulsed the pedal just enough to trip the IVS. Making the idle surge while not letting it go any lower than 1100 but no higher than 1250-1300 . I mentioned the smoke, it's white, Burns your eyes, and smells the same as a friends lly duramax just a bit more fuelly. Also blowby.. It's nonexistent at startup, like none at all. But gets worse as it warms up, it'll never blow the cap off so I'm not overly concerned. I just would assume since metal contracts, a cold sloppy engine should blow by more than a warm tighter block. Right after it stalled in that video I inspected it, and the compressor is surrounded by oil from the ccv. I just don't know what I'd do with the hole in the intake where it was. I'm still kinda weary of this beast just because it sat for so long, so I start it at least 1 time per day to see how it behaves. I also never go out there without my phone for moments like this.

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