Post injector question

pilot4life · Jun 2, 2014

About 20lbs as that's what I was reading was sufficient. I can crank it up and try again. Also I noticed that I was getting a little air from the ccv hose when I was pressurized and looking for a leak. Any ideas what that might be?

ja_cain · Jun 2, 2014

pilot4life said:
About 20lbs as that's what I was reading was sufficient. I can crank it up and try again. Also I noticed that I was getting a little air from the ccv hose when I was pressurized and looking for a leak. Any ideas what that might be?

Probably air bypassing rings and/or valve guide seals.

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TrailerHauler · Jun 2, 2014

I can't seem to break 30psi at WOT in my hot tune either, and it will go north of 1200*. I've never thought much of it, but it sure would be nice if it would run a little cooler. Maybe I should check mine for leaks as well.

pilot4life · Jun 2, 2014

ja_cain said:
Probably air bypassing rings and/or valve guide seals.

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So my engine is in awesome shape? Or am I looking at a rebuild?

ja_cain · Jun 2, 2014

You are never going to get 100% seal on the rings or seals. I think 1% to 10% on an actual leak down test is acceptable. If you are worried you could always do the blow by test with the oil filler cap.

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TARM · Jun 3, 2014

You need to do a actually cylinder pressure test if you are concerned with cylinder pressure. You are testing the intake system and that is what this is for. Get a bottle of soapy water and go to work around every boot, seam, seal, mounting points. You can also block off parts and test those individually if needed.

Arisley · Jun 3, 2014

Also, spray soapy water on your intercooler. Not often, but they can leak.

Rodslinger · Jun 3, 2014

In for info!

have the exact same problem with my Exie. Same boost levels, blue haze at idle and out of hand EGTs when pulling even in the stock tune. 238/100 with matts tunes.

Gearhead · Jun 3, 2014

Rodslinger said:
In for info!

have the exact same problem with my Exie. Same boost levels, blue haze at idle and out of hand EGTs when pulling even in the stock tune. 238/100 with matts tunes.

you wastegate hose is disconnected right?

Rodslinger · Jun 3, 2014

Yes. And cranked down tight. Mine seems to have a lot of fuel down below 2000rpm.

Gearhead · Jun 3, 2014

Rodslinger said:
Yes. And cranked down tight. Mine seems to have a lot of fuel down below 2000rpm.

I could pull fuel back but you can also with your foot. you have a 38r I assume?

Rodslinger · Jun 3, 2014

Say your are pulling a 6k trailer at 65mph and right at 1800/2000rpm cruising. You can see a light black haze and EGTs are about 11/1200. That's on a flat In the tow setting. If I pull my foot back I won't be at highway speed!

Gearhead · Jun 3, 2014

it shounds like you are just under the turbo. what are its specs?

Rodslinger · Jun 3, 2014

238/100, Full RR fuel system, 38r with a 1.0 bellowed ups.
Mine will climb even empty over 1300 in the Eco tune flat ground at 75mph around 2200/2500rmp. Put weight behind it and it will do it even more.
Towing in the tow tune with a C10 water jet from Snows still will hit over 1300 when you see any hill.
I've done the check for leaks on both sides. I have none. That's why I'm in this thread. Hoping maybe I'm just overlooking something that's not right. Gets old watching the pyro nonstop when I have a trailer behind me.

TARM · Jun 3, 2014

Something is certainly not right in the setup with those types of EGTs. I have seen truck after truck that has that same basic setup with Matt's tunes and holding it WOT it will never climb over 1300 regardless of terrain and certainly not in any tune except maybe in the all out "race" tune. His tunes have been this way for years. As far back as I can recall.

Maybe something with the shifting keeping it lugging?

I will say though I have helped a few people ( all different kinds of diesels) that had aftermarket turbos and almost everyone of them when we tested the intake boost side all had leaks well below what should have been peak boost levels. The higher the boost of the setup it seems the more attention has to be paid.

lincolnlocker · Jun 3, 2014

TARM said:
Something is certainly not right in the setup with those types of EGTs. I have seen truck after truck that has that same basic setup with Matt's tunes and holding it WOT it will never climb over 1300 regardless of terrain and certainly not in any tune except maybe in the all out "race" tune. His tunes have been this way for years. As far back as I can recall.

Maybe something with the shifting keeping it lugging?

I will say though I have helped a few people ( all different kinds of diesels) that had aftermarket turbos and almost everyone of them when we tested the intake boost side all had leaks well below what should have been peak boost levels. The higher the boost of the setup it seems the more attention has to be paid.

maybe trans is holding it back some, possibly? edit: I see you mentioned trans already.

I know I only have 170/100s but I never take it out of the htfo(hold the f on)tune no matter what I am doing. I can haul my 13k lb fifth wheel and hold it pinned from a dead stop to 90mph and not break 1400°! now when I just loaf along and roll into it, it will get hotter due to the shift strategy being tuned for wot. if I lock out overdrive and roll into it up to 70mph it wont break 1k° no matter what hill im on so far, havnt pulled through the mountains, but if I control the shifts it doesn't ever get hot.. so there has to be a bigger issue unless like I mentioned a few posts back and tarm just mentioned, hose the entire charge side of the system down with soapy water and run it up to as much pressure as you can and go from there!

live life full throttle

pilot4life · Jun 3, 2014

Ok exhaustive search I have found no soot indicating an exhaust leak.

I have pressurized and soaped and have found no boost leaks.

I am scratching my head as I can't figure out why its getting so hot even in the heavy tow program I can clear 1200 degrees with ease. Could the pyro be bad?

Magnum PD · Jun 3, 2014

I doubt pyro is bad.

pilot4life · Jun 3, 2014

I was reading on Autometers site and they recommend grounding the gauge assembly directly to the engine block to aid in pyro accuracy?

Anyone done this? Could that be it?

Rodslinger · Jun 4, 2014

I swapped senders too thinking maybe that. No change with mine.
As for the Trans. Mine is a stage 1 Jon woods. I'm not to keen on how hard it shifts but it definitely does not slip.
What about a bad MAP sender? Would that make a problem like this?