Quality or Crap aftermarket wheels

Tom S

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I have been doing a wee bit of looking around at wheels. As part of that I have been coming across quite a few posts on different sites where many of these brands have issues with piss poor warranty help to go with it. I know a lot of you guys have extensive experience with aftermarket wheels. What brands are good and which ones are a waste of money.
 

Tom S

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MOTO METAL


My buddy has a set of 951 moto metal wheels. Has had them for lil over a yr on his f250. The truck never gets off road at all he babies the truck big time. He had a wheel crack about 3 months ago .We all thought just a bad mold . He had it welded and ran it till his new wheel came in . Now its just a spare. Well today another wheel cracked in the exact same place. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem . If noone has just beware of moto metal wheels!!

I never heard of a wheel cracking personally.

I did have a set of 955's and the chrome starting peeling off of them after a year. Moto Metal's customer service was no help at all. I wouldn't buy another set of their wheels.

Do yourself a favor and check the chrome on your wheels. I have had these wheels for two years next month and in that two years they have never seen snow,salt, mud etc..anything that could damage the finish.
I run my stock wheels/tires in the winter and don't off road at all.

The chrome startrd peeling on the backside of the hub and went completely to the front of one wheel.
The prep job before the chrome is just plain awful.

BEWARE


Was doing my winter inspection this weekend...Good thing I notice this..This could of been a disaster waiting to happen...About 4 years ago I bought a used set of 16 inch Moto Metal aluminum rims.They where perfect at the time..But found one front rim with 8 cracks running towards the centre of the hub,right where the lug nut go..

I always used a torque wrench on the lugs and torque them to 120 foot lbs..I'm going to remove the rears and check them also..Now I don't trust these rims...Maybe should replace them all.. Or buy a replacement rim? I haven't priced out a rim in Calgary,but by other Alberta posts,maybe I should order a rim from the US...Seems Mr Wheel Deal is the one to use..

What to do... Anyone see cracks like this in aluminum rims??

I also went through 2 complete sets of my moto metal skull rims. Both sets were covered by warranty. All 8 of my rims cracked way out by the "eyes" and through the nose of the rims. Now on a set of fuel rims......

I discovered back on 7/1/11 that one of the Moto Metal Skull wheels on my new 2011 Dodge Ram was cracked in multiple places (same as you described). 4 out of the 5 skulls had multiple cracks, so bad that the center section was about ready to break out. I haven't even had a chance to get my truck off-road.



I contacted the dealer (in Idaho. I live in N.Ca) and they shipped a new wheel to me without hesitation.

I shipped the wheel back to the dealer and they called me to say how shocked they were and mentioned how lucky I was to not have a complete wheel failure and resulting wreck.

I stayed with these wheels as I figured this might have been an isolated incident. Was I WRONG!

As you can probably understand, I made a walk around my truck everytime before driving it and checked every wheel.

On 9/7/11 while checking my wheels before departing for work, I discovered I had 2 more wheels with cracks in them. Again, 4 out of 5 skulls were cracked! That's 3 out of the 4 original wheels with major failure.

Contacted the dealer again and their first words after hearing this were "let's get those wheels off there now". I picked out a new set (XD797 Spy's this time) and they shipped them to me right away, again free of charge and rightly so. They even paid for the mounting/balancing at my local shop.

I do have to say that Wayne at Dave Smith Motors in Kellogg, Idaho really stepped up and handled the situation. Thanks Wayne!


There was no way I will ever driving anywhere on MM Skull wheels or take the chance on any wheel from Moto Metal. Tried contacting the manufacturer and they were absolutly 100% useless in helping to resolve the situation.

Last I checked there has not been an official recall of these wheels but I can only hope that the manufacturer steps up and gets these things off the market before someone is seriously injured or killed.

My opinion/advice....if you have these, get them off now! If you're thinking about getting them, DON'T!
 
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Tom S

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CENTERLINE

Did you order chrome finish? If so....watch them very closely. I had bad luck with my chrome centerline wheels peeling and them not wanting to stand behind them.

Great looking wheel though!


This has nothing to do with the question, but, my Centerlines cracked. They told me they often crack on the Superduty trucks and they didn't know why. I went with wheels that had a lifetime warranty instead.

[ QUOTE ]

This has nothing to do with the question, but, my Centerlines cracked. They told me they often crack on the Superduty trucks and they didn't know why. I went with wheels that had a lifetime warranty instead.

[/ QUOTE ]

One of my Eagle alloys is cracked too. Which ones have a lifetime warranty?


I used to work at discount tire co. centerline wheels have always been known for cracking and failure. They are no forged in most cases. All weld wheels are forged go with the welds the quality is much higher.

About 2.5 years ago I bought some new Centerline Phython Wheels "Extreme Duty Series" for our Excursion 4X4 PSD. In the last 3 months, 3 of the 5 wheels I bought have cracked on me and I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems. The wheels are in perfect condition otherwise and have no dents, dings, etc.



The first incident involved what we thought was a blow out of a rear tire on the freeway and the wheel was ruined while trying to stay in control of the vehicle as we brought it over to the shoulder. A later inspection of the wheel revealed a crack in the outside surface of the hoop, but we didn't think too much about it at that time and thought that perhaps it occured after the tire blew out. We were lucky it was a rear tire and not the front as then we may have lost control of our steering.



About a month ago we were loosing pressure in the front left tire. The tire shop found the wheel to be cracked in the outside part of the wheel. The crack was so small you couldn't really see it unless you knew exactly what to look for. Pouring water over the wheel quickly revealed where the air was escaping through the one inch long fracture. This got me thinking that maybe our first incident was not just a tire blow out, but perhaps the wheel cracked and then the air escaped causing the tire dismount and fall off.



Then several days ago while we were a good 600+ miles away from home on vacation we were loosing air in the right rear tire and it was so low that we were worried it might fall off the wheel since these 16.5 inch wheels cannot be bead locked...ugh! So we were stuck in 112 degree heat while waiting for road service and of course the guy who showed up an hour later couldn't help us. We had to wait another 75 minutes for help in the blazing heat and we were finally on our way a short while later to find the nearest tire store. Upon arriving at a Firestone dealer about 45 minutes later, they found our right rear tire pressure had dropped from 50 psi down to 22 psi in that short amount of time. Sure enough they found this wheel to be cracked, but this one was cracked on the backside at the weld as opposed to the other two which were cracked on the outside surface of the hoop and not on the weld.



I'm wondering if anyone else here had had similar problems with their wheels because I can't see this being just bad luck on my part, especially since this is a family vehicle and its not abused in any way. Maybe it was a process problem at the time our wheels were built, but short of more speculating and getting a metalurgist involved to get to the bottom of this, I'm kind of stuck in a bad spot and really don't want to spend another $2K on wheels and 35" tires, especially when my tires are nearly new.



I'm really concerned because we also tow a 9,600 lb trailer and when combined with the weight of our Excursion (another 8,100 lbs), it makes for a pretty heavy package. I'm concerned for our safety and the safety of others on the road should another wheel crack and cause us to loose control of our vehicle, especially while heading down a mountain pass while fully loaded. Centerline has fixed our wheels in the past at no charge, but I'm very concerned this will be an on going problem and that our wheels are a problem just waiting to happen. Thanks for any input.
 
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Tom S

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Good posts from TDS

Thank you MrBill1 /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif



Centerline has replaced all my wheels as a set with their newest one piece rotary forged HT Comp series and has told my this WILL permanently solve my problems and that I can tow anything my truck is designed to tow with up to 35 inch tires, but I'm still very leary.



The Rickson wheels might be the ultimate solution in terms of strength and load capacity. Goodyear also makes a nice 16 ply commercial grade AT tire in the 265/70R19.5 size (11" wide & 35" diameter) with a G load capacity that would probably last 150K miles, but this setup would cost $3,000 and each tire/wheel weighs about 150lbs /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif If I was cruising on the highway most of the time, then these wheels would make more sense for me, but this vehicle is mostly used in the city with lots of stop and go traffic while often towing horses, car trailers, hauling the kids to school and to various activities, etc, and this extra rolling weight would surely take its toll on the brakes.



My research from talking to various tire, wheel & specialty shops revealed an eye opening experience because I found that I was far from the only person who has experienced this type of problem. I seen more than a dozen cracked wheels at various shops from Centerline, Weld, Boyd, American Racing, etc, and several shops told me they dealt with customers every month who came to them with cracked wheels and they'd usually crack after a few years of service and usually on lifted vehicles with larger tires that towed trailers. Many of the shops I talked with that had experience with cracked wheels said they had more Centerline wheels that were cracked by far than any other brand, but this may not mean too much in the scheme of things when looking at the percentage of wheels produced vs. the wheels cracked 'if' Centerline produces many more wheels than the other brands /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif.



I also learned that American Eagle Wheel corp has a good reputation at several of the specialty shops I talked with for offering a good strong wheel (American Eagle wheel model 058) that rarely fails on heavier trucks with lift kits and they are priced very competively and are very dealer friendly. It's a cast wheel, but its rated with a higher load capacity (3,400lbs) than the newest one piece forged Centerline wheels (3,200lbs).



If my new one piece forged Centerline wheels crack, then I'm going to look harder at both the American Eagle 058 series and the Mickey Thompson Classic II's as MrBill1 suggested. The MT Classic II's have a 3,600 load capacity for the 16.5 X 9.75 size (the best around for the price), are priced competively and offer a lifetime structural warranty. They are also very light in weight at 23lbs per wheel compared to the American Eagle 058's which weigh in at 29lbs per wheel. The extra weight of the Eagle 058's leads me to believe that perhaps this wheel is significantly stronger than what its rated for and maybe its stronger than the Mickey Thompson Classic II /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shrug.gif



The other thing I really like about the Eagle 058 & MT Classic II wheels is their 4.75" backspace. My Centerlines are backspaced 4.5" and my BFG's (35 X 12.5 X 16.5) slightly stick out the wheel well, so this extra 0.25" backspace is welcomed and it probably also offers less axial loading on the wheel bearings /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/biggrin.gif.



If anyone here plans to lift their vehicle and run 35 inch tires and tow a heavy trailer, then take a serious look at both the American Eagle 058's and the Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels as they are both among the strongest wheels for this type of application short of the $3K super 'heavy' duty Rickson package.
 

Tom S

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WELD

I don't buy anything from Weld anymore. I had a really big issue with one of their wheels, and it could have easily been fatal if it had failed at any other time. They wouldn't back their "lifetime structural warranty" even though it was apparent that there was porosity in the "forged" bead lip. It's a hairy ride when the bead peels off halfway around the wheel when cruising down the road at 70 MPH and 13" of sidewall instantly become 2".

What is with Weld Wheels cracking? I have always been a HUGE fan of Weld's and have had several sets. However this is my second broken Weld!!! What is going on. First I had a Typhoon 17 x 9 crack and now a Sidewinder 17 x 10 crack. I can not afford to keep buying sets of wheels. First off anyone have a 17 x 10 Sidewinder for 8 lug Dodge or GM, and secondly WHAT GIVES???

The original company Weld Wheel Industries, built these wheels several years ago. They filed for bankruptcy in Aug. of 2008. We are a new company now only offering performance racing wheels. The truck wheels you are talking about are a 2 piece wheel. I remember there were a few problems with load rating issues on these wheels. Only in 8 lug applications and mostly on diesel trucks.
The best option for your truck would be a one pice forged wheel to handle the load rating better.
Hope this helps.
 

PTSUPERD

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Wow. Cool thread Tom.

Last dealings I had with a wheel company was BMF. I had an issue with the chrome pitting on my SOTAs. BMF replaced all four wheels.

They have since changed their chrome process and added a 3 yr warranty.
 

Zmann

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Weld stopped making truck and auto rims for quite a while after they had all those issues and sold out ,,

they are back in the business now but have limited offerings , here is a few post from them about the issue http://www.weldracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=492.

there is a thread at the ORG with a set of cracked XD rims,, very scary !!

I bevel a lot of cracking is because of the lack of engineering and designing a rim with Aesthetics in mind

that and some casting process issues , you can tell the XD below was a poor design


IMG_20120612_084508.jpg
 
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Tom S

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I have to say once I started looking at this I really appreciate my factory alcoa's. They are just a bit narrow for the 285/75/16 tires I am considering.

I hope we get lots of input on this thread to sort out the decent stuff from the crap.
 

TyCorr

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Are fuels good? I bought black because Gare told me that chrome isnt.very.durable. Now Im more concerned about structural defects.
 

Zmann

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The skulls mentioned above

100_2174.jpg


I have had Eagle rims that leaked due to casting pores x4
Centerline real forged rime = no issues
Helo's one was bent when I bought the truck not a defect = great rim so far
Clement's steel rims = out of round from new =junk
multiple other steel rims 8 spoke -5 spoke -trailer rims a plenty = no issues
 

Tom S

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Are fuels good? I bought black because Gare told me that chrome isnt.very.durable. Now Im more concerned about structural defects.

FUEL Wheels

Anyone have contact information for Fuel Offroad wheels? Have been searching for awhile but have not been successful. Out of the six wheels I have four of them seem to have a manufacturing defect. Seems the cast is off center from the center bore. The first set shook the hell out of my truck and it took me four tire shops to get someone who knew what they were looking at. Got two new ones shipped to me today and they are screwed up also. I have two more coming but they will be my last attempt. Wanted to talk to the manufacturer directly regarding this, maybe they have a bad lot or something.

I ordered some 20x10 fuel throttle wheels in chrome from rimzoneonline.com I have had them on for about 4 months now and they are already starting to show some minor pitting i have had them polished and cleaned and i am pissed after only 4 months they are already pitting, I live in FL and the truck stays parked in my driveway 5 days a week. What should i do about this???

I bought mine from rimzoneonline also, very good dealing with them and would recommend them for purchases. However I am not satisfied with the quality of Fuel wheels in general as it took me 8 wheels to get 4 good ones. rimzoneonline and MHT were both good at taking care of this so you hopefully won't have any issues either.

I have had these issue with XD's on my F-150 and currently having minor pitting on my Fuel wheels. Niether wheels are considered a cheap wheel and I'm still having this issue. My truck isn't a daily driver and never gets used in the rain. I either wash the truck or at the least wipe down the wheels every weekend. I pretty much give up on chrome. My next set will be American Force wheels. Polished wheels have to be polished more often, but won't pit like the chrome wheels are doing.

A good thread on crappy Fuel Hostage Wheels with lots of complaints. http://powerstrokenation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=123576
 
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TyCorr

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FUEL Wheels

Well, sounds like they have issues with the chrome not the wheel itself. I can repaint these if I need to. Kinda scary info! Glad you created this thread Tom.

Oh, shti, I didnt read very.closely. The one guy had a center bore.that wasnt centered. Im gonna.be.pissed if.these are.junk.
 
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Black_Pstroke

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Are fuels good? I bought black because Gare told me that chrome isnt.very.durable. Now Im more concerned about structural defects.

This is why I got black as well. All the negativity I could find about FUEL was bad Chrome. I didn't find anything about structural issues. I've had mine on the truck for 2 weeks now with no problems. LOL LOL
 

Tom S

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Interesting reading on Tire Rack on the making of alloy wheels.

Wheel Construction


Lea esta página en español

All Wheels Are Round. Or Are They?
Though not enforced, there are quality standards to govern the production of wheels. Some countries though, like Germany and Japan, have government regulations requiring aftermarket wheels to meet certain criteria and ensure proper fit. The United States has taken steps to establish guidelines but it will be some time before they can enact regulation of any kind.

Consequently, all wheels are not made the same. The performance of an alloy wheel is a direct result of the manufacturing technique employed.

The Tire Rack offers a wide range of wheel choices from manufacture's that have adopted the manufacturing processes that meet the strict O.E.M. (Original Equipment manufacturers) requirements. Wheel companies that supply to the O.E.M. market must follow certain procedures during the manufacturing process to maintain the quality and integrity of their product.

There are many factors to consider when purchasing an alloy wheel.

What Is a Wheel and What Is a Rim? Are They the Same Thing?
It may seem obvious, but a wheel is comprised of a hub, spokes and rim. Sometimes these components will be one piece, sometimes two or three. The hub is the center portion of the wheel and is what attaches the wheel to the suspension. The spokes radiate out from the hub and attach to the rim. The rim is the outer part of the wheel that holds the tire. While many people refer to wheels as "rims," this is technically incorrect. We'll discuss several ways that wheels are manufactured below.

One-Piece Cast Wheels
This is the most common type of aluminum wheel. The casting of wheels is the process of getting molten aluminum inside a mold to form a wheel. There are different ways this can be accomplished and although it sounds simple, this is truly an art when done properly.

GRAVITY CASTING

Gravity casting is the most basic process of pouring molten aluminum into a mold utilizing the earth's gravity to fill the mold. Gravity casting offers a very reasonable production cost and is a good method for casting designs that are more visually oriented or when reducing weight is not a primary concern. Since the process relies on gravity to fill the mold, the aluminum is not as densely packed in the mold as some other casting processes. Often gravity cast wheels will have a higher weight to achieve the required strength.

LOW PRESSURE CASTING

Low pressure casting uses positive pressure to move the molten aluminum into the mold quicker and achieve a finished product that has improved mechanical properties (more dense) over a gravity cast wheel. Low-pressure casting has a slightly higher production cost over gravity casting. Low pressure is the most common process approved for aluminum wheels sold to the O.E.M. market. Low-pressure cast wheels offer a good value for the aftermarket as well. Some companies offer wheels that are produced under a higher pressure in special casting equipment to create a wheel that is lighter and stronger than a wheel produced in low pressure. Once again in the quest for lighter weight, there is a higher cost associated with the process.

Spun-Rim, Flow-Forming or Rim Rolling Technology
This specialized process begins with a low pressure type of casting and uses a special machine that spins the initial casting, heats the outer portion of the casting and then uses steel rollers pressed against the rim area to pull the rim to its final width and shape. The combination of the heat, pressure and spinning create a rim area with the strength similar to a forged wheel without the high cost of the forging. Some of the special wheels produced for the O.E.M. high performance or limited production vehicles utilize this type of technology resulting in a light and strong wheel at a reasonable cost. BBS has used this technology for several years in their production of racing wheels for Formula One and Indy cars. BBS's RC wheel for the aftermarket is an example of a wheel produced using spun rim technology.


In forged wheels, computer numerically controlled
(CNC) mills add the cosmetics and the bolt circle to exacting tolerances.


Forged
The ultimate in one-piece wheels. Forging is the process of forcing a solid billet of aluminum between the forging dies under an extreme amount of pressure. This creates a finished product that is very dense, very strong and therefore can be very light. The costs of tooling, development, equipment, etc., make this type of wheel very exclusive and usually demand a high price in the aftermarket.


Multi-Piece Wheels
This type of wheel utilizes two or three components assembled together to produce a finished wheel. Multi-piece wheels can use many different methods of manufacturing. Centers can be cast in various methods or forged. The rim sections for 3-piece wheels are normally spun from disks of aluminum. Generally, spun rim sections offer the ability to custom-tailor wheels for special applications that would not be available otherwise. The rim sections are bolted to the center and normally a sealant is applied in or on the assembly area to seal the wheel. This type of 3-piece construction was originally developed for racing in the early 1970s and has been used on cars ever since. The 3-piece wheels are most popular in the 17" and larger diameters.

There are now many options for 2-piece wheels in the market. The 2-piece wheel design does not offer as wide a range of application that a 3-piece wheel allows, however they are more common in the market and the prices start well below the average 3-piece wheel. Some 2-piece wheels have the center bolted into a cast or cast/spun rim section and other manufacturers press centers into spun rim sections and weld the unit together. When BBS developed a new 2-piece wheel to replace the previous 3-piece street wheel, they used the special rim-rolling technology (originally developed for racing wheels) to give the rim section the weight and strength advantages similar to a forged rim. On the high-end of the 2-piece wheel market you can find wheels using forged rims and forged centers. Since these are only sold in small volume and due to the high development and production costs associated with the forging process, they tend to be on the high end of the price scale.

High Light Technology (HLT)
The High Light Technology (HLT) process used in the manufacturing of O.Z. Racing's Alleggerita HLT and Botticelli HLT wheels, for example, uses rollers to compress and elongate the material along the barrel of a low-pressure cast aluminum wheel to obtain the desired profile. This process, which is directly derived from O.Z.'s experience in F1, produces wheels that are extremely light and strong.

The flow forming process and the HLT technologies combine to create mechanical characteristics similar to those of a forged wheel. This permits a dramatic reduction in wheel weight while enhancing structural rigidity vs. a standard cast wheel.
 

Tom S

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BMF Wheels

I found a set for sale locally, guy had them on his truck for 6 months, including winter. The clear coat was peeling. They were bad enough by that time I didn't want them, I'd hate to see what they would look like in a couple years.

My buddy has had a set on his truck for almost 2 years. The black part is good, the clear machines looks almost white. It rains a lot in OR.

FYI BMF has stopped all production on wheels until they get their problems with quality figured out. Just talked to Blake on Friday. That is why they keep pushing back the dates.

So those of you who have been waiting should be glad. At least you wont have problems with the finish fading, chipping, peeling, ect.
 

TheSmokinStroke2002

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I have Mickey Thompson Classic locks. Had them for 3 years, maybe a month of time in salt/snow, they looked great before i plasti dipped them. Cleaned up almost like new. They are aluminum.
 

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