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Any news on some of the more high end wheels like American force 8 lug singles, RBP wheels or any like that?
Quality or Crap aftermarket wheels
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SouthFlstrokin'
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Rbp is also a crap made in China wheel.
Charles
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Something like this:
Shouldn't surprise anyone when it fractures in a few places after a 4800+lb front end beats and bounces on it for thousands of miles.
It might be a good rule of thumb that if you can readily identify a person holding the wheel directly in front of their face by looking straight through the wheel, then it probably shouldn't go on a diesel pickup.
That is basically a 6 spoke wheel, where those six spokes are then cut into two even smaller spokes, side-by-side. 12, evenly spaced and for God's sake, angled spokes would be much stronger. The loads are like what a 6 spoke would encounter, but the spokes are very small.
Secondly, the spokes have almost no apparent angle. They look to be nearly in plane with the hub face. That means that lateral loading will not put those spokes into tension and compression, but will just sit there shearing them back and forth until they probably crack somewhere between the hub and bead. Ever notice how a bicycle spoke is angled all the way to the outside of the hub, alternating spokes from one side of the hub to the other? If you just ran them all in plane, the wheel would be a nightmare with no lateral load capacity.
Those people basically made a spoke wheel because it looked cool to them, and then didn't treat it like a spoked wheel. There's not enough meat there to treat it like a solid center, and not enough angle to treat it like a spoke wheel.
The fact that some of them cracked shouldn't surprise anyone.
I've noticed wheels like that getting more and more popular. It's like people forgot that the wheel actually has to support the weight of the truck every time it hits a bump, bumps a curb or hits a pothole....
As long as you actually wash your wheels every now and then and get your face down there you should see any fatigue cracks long before a catastrophic failure. So if you have wheels with more air than metal between the hub and bead, make sure to put in some quality face time with clean wheels every time you wash the truck, or change the oil.
I don't care who or where they are made, nor from what.... a design like that is just asking for trouble on a heavy diesel truck that sees daily service.
Shouldn't surprise anyone when it fractures in a few places after a 4800+lb front end beats and bounces on it for thousands of miles.
It might be a good rule of thumb that if you can readily identify a person holding the wheel directly in front of their face by looking straight through the wheel, then it probably shouldn't go on a diesel pickup.
That is basically a 6 spoke wheel, where those six spokes are then cut into two even smaller spokes, side-by-side. 12, evenly spaced and for God's sake, angled spokes would be much stronger. The loads are like what a 6 spoke would encounter, but the spokes are very small.
Secondly, the spokes have almost no apparent angle. They look to be nearly in plane with the hub face. That means that lateral loading will not put those spokes into tension and compression, but will just sit there shearing them back and forth until they probably crack somewhere between the hub and bead. Ever notice how a bicycle spoke is angled all the way to the outside of the hub, alternating spokes from one side of the hub to the other? If you just ran them all in plane, the wheel would be a nightmare with no lateral load capacity.
Those people basically made a spoke wheel because it looked cool to them, and then didn't treat it like a spoked wheel. There's not enough meat there to treat it like a solid center, and not enough angle to treat it like a spoke wheel.
The fact that some of them cracked shouldn't surprise anyone.
I've noticed wheels like that getting more and more popular. It's like people forgot that the wheel actually has to support the weight of the truck every time it hits a bump, bumps a curb or hits a pothole....
As long as you actually wash your wheels every now and then and get your face down there you should see any fatigue cracks long before a catastrophic failure. So if you have wheels with more air than metal between the hub and bead, make sure to put in some quality face time with clean wheels every time you wash the truck, or change the oil.
I don't care who or where they are made, nor from what.... a design like that is just asking for trouble on a heavy diesel truck that sees daily service.
Last edited:
Nic
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i have the eagle 197s and theyre super cheap (150 a wheel), have no problems and look good IMO. Originally wanted the RBP R-95s but theyre about 500 a wheel so i saw these and picked em up..If i screw on of these up i wont be so mad. Got the full set on ebay for 535 shipped
Tom S
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Something like this:
Shouldn't surprise anyone when it fractures in a few places after a 4800+lb front end beats and bounces on it for thousands of miles.
It might be a good rule of thumb that if you can readily identify a person holding the wheel directly in front of their face by looking straight through the wheel, then it probably shouldn't go on a diesel pickup.
That is basically a 6 spoke wheel, where those six spokes are then cut into two even smaller spokes, side-by-side. 12, evenly spaced and for God's sake, angled spokes would be much stronger. The loads are like what a 6 spoke would encounter, but the spokes are very small.
Secondly, the spokes have almost no apparent angle. They look to be nearly in plane with the hub face. That means that lateral loading will not put those spokes into tension and compression, but will just sit there shearing them back and forth until they probably crack somewhere between the hub and bead. Ever notice how a bicycle spoke is angled all the way to the outside of the hub, alternating spokes from one side of the hub to the other? If you just ran them all in plane, the wheel would be a nightmare with no lateral load capacity.
Those people basically made a spoke wheel because it looked cool to them, and then didn't treat it like a spoked wheel. There's not enough meat there to treat it like a solid center, and not enough angle to treat it like a spoke wheel.
The fact that some of them cracked shouldn't surprise anyone.
I've noticed wheels like that getting more and more popular. It's like people forgot that the wheel actually has to support the weight of the truck every time it hits a bump, bumps a curb or hits a pothole....
As long as you actually wash your wheels every now and then and get your face down there you should see any fatigue cracks long before a catastrophic failure. So if you have wheels with more air than metal between the hub and bead, make sure to put in some quality face time with clean wheels every time you wash the truck, or change the oil.
I don't care who or where they are made, nor from what.... a design like that is just asking for trouble on a heavy diesel truck that sees daily service.
Great post!
WHY NOT
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You should know to post up pictures LOL
I want a set of these so bad.
They haven't been out long enough for many people to have them and have problems. I would imagine they would be fine though since they are made from a block of alum and not cast, at least I think that is right
When I get it back, believe me I will post some pics. I did 22x12 with 37 toyo's m/t. I can't wait to get it back
Here is a pic of the wheels
WHY NOT
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BLING looks awesome
Tom S
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Well my experience with American Racing Baja wheels. I rejected two at the tire shop where I had them put them on the balancer before mouting the wheels. One had runout on the outside edge and the replacement had sort of a flat spot on the inside edge. I expect it was within the quality control standards they have just not quite what it should be in my opinion. The guys at the tire shop also noticed the runnout and flat spot. I will say the staff at Wheel Pros here in Denver was excellent in dealing with the issue and I have no complaints about them at all.
I can see the issues with chroming as that has been happening for a few years now across the board. But in response to the various quoted posts as indicators of issues, while its helpful, without knowing out of how many others running these wheels, it could either show terrible QC for an entire company or wheel line or could show good QC or somewhere in between.
Fact is everyone is wanting to get a great wheel for $300 a piece yet then are surprised QC is a bit hit or miss. Take a look at what factory wheels cost or top end wheels as they are closer to $1K a piece. You can not expect the same quality or at least you shouldn't. Best case is buy from a vendor that is willing to do a proper check before selling or get it with tires and balancing as that will insure as least no structure out of round issue with either. When I purchased my Fuel Hostage knowing they were a bargain brand and the issues with chroming I staying with black. I also got my tires from the same place and had them mount and balance them. Was very happy with the quality and how they balanced. The rep told me they are always sending back both wheels and tires from most manf because of defects when they do their pre shipping QC checks or those that get caught during mounting and balancing
Fact is everyone is wanting to get a great wheel for $300 a piece yet then are surprised QC is a bit hit or miss. Take a look at what factory wheels cost or top end wheels as they are closer to $1K a piece. You can not expect the same quality or at least you shouldn't. Best case is buy from a vendor that is willing to do a proper check before selling or get it with tires and balancing as that will insure as least no structure out of round issue with either. When I purchased my Fuel Hostage knowing they were a bargain brand and the issues with chroming I staying with black. I also got my tires from the same place and had them mount and balance them. Was very happy with the quality and how they balanced. The rep told me they are always sending back both wheels and tires from most manf because of defects when they do their pre shipping QC checks or those that get caught during mounting and balancing
Surprisingly TARM, my fuel wheels and Mickey Thompson Baja atz tires were "as easy as a little car tire" to mount and balance according to Mendota Tire Service. I was expecting some trouble, honestly, as fuel wheels are "inexpensive" Chinese crap.
More impressive was the the five little weights it took to balance my old rolling stock. 16x12 Eagle Alloy eight hole wheels and MT 37x13.5 Baja claws. There are a single weight on each wheel, save for the Dr side steer, it has two. I've got no bent here, I've owned tires from all over the tire companies over the years, but a Mickey Thompson tire takes a lot of BS outta the equation. I insist on them. I am curious about the road manners of Cooper truck tires too since this is a wheel thread it'll have to wait.
More impressive was the the five little weights it took to balance my old rolling stock. 16x12 Eagle Alloy eight hole wheels and MT 37x13.5 Baja claws. There are a single weight on each wheel, save for the Dr side steer, it has two. I've got no bent here, I've owned tires from all over the tire companies over the years, but a Mickey Thompson tire takes a lot of BS outta the equation. I insist on them. I am curious about the road manners of Cooper truck tires too since this is a wheel thread it'll have to wait.
SouthFlstrokin'
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Ty I can't agree with you enough. A quality tire makes everything better
fine69
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Not to muck up the thread, but I've had VERY good results with Cooper tires over the years.
How does BMF's new PVD chrome hold up? I'm looking at getting a set of Novakanes and would like a little feedback.
TheSmokinStroke2002
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I second the notion with mickey Thompson tires. I have MT tires and wheels and always get told theyre easy to mount and balance
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hunter scar
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Anymore info on eagle alloy wheels?. I'm interested in them because they say their made in the U.S.A
01PSD
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But.. but... I want Fuels 
Zaairman
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I have them on my truck, no issues at all.
