Regulated Return with fuel bowl

Groomzybanshee

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Dang. When I was there last he had it parked over the dyno with the chargers out. Never even asked him what it made because we where talking about fuel system stuff. He has a machined adapter on the fuel bowl that allows a little fuel to flow from the bowl to the return line. In fact I should be getting mine in the mail from him tomorrow or the next day. I hope it clears up my funky fuel knock and erratic idle coming out of the throttle.

i have one of them on my dually.
 

Magnum PD

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I used the OBS front fuel lines and the 90 degree that attach to the regulator. You will need to lengthen a line to get to the driver side rail. Got pics if you need them.
 

Magnum PD

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Disregard the sensor. I put a plug in that port. Of course I'm feeding the front and coming from the rear to the regulator.
 

Dieselfever

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I'm stuck on: I don't see the "increase in pressure" that is being brought up. A stock SD fuel system usually runs 60-65 psi from all the ones I've seen, how much more pressure are people running when they go to a regulated return :lookaround: ??

I know the OBS fuel bowls are on the low pressure side of the mechanical lift pump so cranking it up on them WILL crack them.

-Michael
 

TARM

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RR without the fuel bowl which I think makes the most sense will have pressures from 55-75 You could technically run more but there would likely be no benefit. The Bosch pumps are rates to 100psi but again no reason to run them there.

With those wanting for some reason to keep the fuel bowl with an RR have you considered the filters capacity given the way the fuel bowl flows fuel. Only the fuel going to the fuel rails goes thru the main high mic filter. I would check as typically filters are only see 6-8 gph in a deadhead design but in RR you have all flow going thru them. That can be min of 20-25gph with a stock fuel pump. There is a HUGE variation in the filter performance of replacement filters and frankly none of them meet up with what I would if I was about to install new injectors.

Have you looked at what the ratings are of the typical replacement filter out there? How about the one you are using? Consider from what I have read injectors manf would like to see 2 mic but a 2-4 range or better is good for fuel filter micron perf rating.

WIX 33818and NAPA 3818 14 microns NOMINAL that means 50% per pass. Means a 28+ mic absolute 98.7% /pass but its not listed. I willing to bet a huge % of people get there filters from NAPA and are running these things. Feel bad for those injectors.


Baldwin PF7698 and Fleetguard FF5418 its 9 micron.

Racor PFF4596 7 micron

Donaldson P550437 5 micron


SO make your choices carefully if you choose to keep that bowl.

If someone has the micron rating on the aFe version IIRC its AFE-44-F007 They look like a very good filter but have not gotten a rating on it yet.

You also need to consider how you will need to alter you filter change frequency. With Deadhead you were only filtering what was being used by the engine and now its being filters many multiples of times picking up more and more debris given the way they filter with smaller particles. So as an example (not necessarily real numbers) if you use to change ever 3 months @ 6-8 gph and now you with your RR and flow rate of 22-25 gph would every month seem reasonable? Versus 2 filters both larger in size and capacity with fuel bowl deleted RR system.


Fuel bowls typically leak at the worse times. Every time you flip that drain tab it could possibly break and leak. This happens very frequently. Get the screw on cap stuck or stripped so its a PITA to get off. Get it going on cross threaded and possibly crack the fuel bowl body.

Water separation or complete lack there of. Ask yourself when the last time you ever saw a water in fuel light or noticed water when draining the bowl? That's not because there is no water in your fuel trust me. That outer cover does do get the job done IMO. As soon as I put a dahl on and before that a spin on Donaldson I was getting water separation and draining. This issue only gets worse with running higher flow rates thru the stock fuel bowl filter.


I could see maybe running a RR with fuel bowl if I was still running the stock injectors that had 100K + miles on them already. But if I was going to be spending all that hard earned money of new injectors I would certainly want far better filtration protection for them than that stock fuel bowl delivers.
 

TyCorr

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Ill have to look around but I thought I saw 47psi for a common fuel pressure in a stock sd?!?! Dont know why that number is stuck in my head. Probably wrong here.

I kinda question the ability of the filter as tarm pointed out. I run motorcraft filters but just seems like a two stage 10 or 12 mic---->2mic would be better, safer, and offer more surface area on the filter media to put off the more frequent service interval that you would see running the stocker.

Again, Im speculating but I WILL ditch mine just to free up more room under the hood.
 

Magnum PD

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I am going to run, hopefully, a fuel manager before the SD pump. I should get water separation, 5 micron, and be able to filter the fuel right before fuel goes to the injectors.
 

TARM

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If that is the case then why keep the fuel bowl at all. For 30-40 you can have a filter base with fittings and run a final 2 mic filter post pump that also has a much larger capacity. You would no longer have the bowl and its possible weaknesses and clean up the engine bay. you can certainly keep it as well IMO there is just even less reason to.
 

TyCorr

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If that is the case then why keep the fuel bowl at all. For 30-40 you can have a filter base with fittings and run a final 2 mic filter post pump that also has a much larger capacity. You would no longer have the bowl and its possible weaknesses and clean up the engine bay. you can certainly keep it as well IMO there is just even less reason to.

By that advice, where is a good place(convenient and plentiful) to get the apparatus? Ag store? Or a big truck store?
 

Magnum PD

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It'll come to that one day. I though heating the fuel would help in winter, but guys on here say other wise. Time will tell.
 

TyCorr

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That heater doesnt do sh@t. Only reason I know is that I kept it until last winter and it was way below freezing when I opted to ditch it and I didnt even notice a difference. I didnt plug my truck in at all last year. We only got down below 0 three or four days though.
 

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