Resurgence of a F100

mandkole

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Attaboy, living vicariously thru your energy lol. Nothing automotive is in my plan until the shop is done.
 

6speedsd

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I forgot to take many pics. Engine is together minus valve covers and headers. Got my wiring cleaned up like I wanted to, and pulled the steering box, which went much easier than I expected. Local parts store lists a reman that had to be ordered, so I called today to do just that. He claims its not available....anywhere, at all, discontinued. However they can order a brand new one, for almost $900. Umm, negative there big fella. Got on Amazon and found a rebuild kit for $30, will be here Wednesday. Kit claims to tighten things up, plus it'll replace those leaking seals.

Got brave and tore the C4 down. It's actually simpler than I expected. Took me an hour to get the pump out of the housing. It was seized in there good. There was alot of slime and gunk in that thing. Housing and tail shaft housing is soaking in some hit soapy water overnight, and I'll pressure wash it tomorrow and start the reassembly. I did take one of the messy table full of tranny parts and the wife snapped one of me inside the truck working on wiring. Sure made it easy with the engine gone!
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6speedsd

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Man that C4 is messy. Soaking overnight didn't even break that grime loose. Pressure washer got some of it off, but it's still nasty. The inside of the reverse servo housing had this thick pile of gunk that is worse than 10 year old axle grease. It just smears...gas wouldn't even take it off my hands. I'm really starting to wonder how that trans still shifted as good as it did, because it had seriously been neglected in its past life.

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6speedsd

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Got the trans put back together this afternoon. It was quite simple really. I had it together earlier, then I found a thrust washer laying on the table. Of course it was the very first one that gets installed so I had to take the entire thing apart again. B&M's instructions were ok, but the pics weren't very clear and they had some parts mislabeled in the text. I ended up using my ASTM manual more than anything.

Rebuild kit for my steering box should be here tomorrow. Once I rebuild that I can start putting the truck back together. Both of my kids have the flu, and my wife came home today acting like she's coming down with it too, so it may be a few days before I get more wrench time.

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6speedsd

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Unless I run into an issue, it should be running before the day's end today. Have to plumb in the tranny cooler then put the radiator back in. I have to do some figuring with my exhaust. The driver's side header is pointing straight at the trans crossmember. I'm hoping a couple 45 bends will get me up and over it. I'm still on the fence about which mufflers I put back on it. Not sure if I want to put the Flowmasters back on there out the side like it was, or if I want to put the Magnaflow bullets I have on it and dump them over the axle.

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mandkole

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Nice, you made pretty quick work of it. Suggestion, remflex gaskets for headers. Another exhaust suggestion is to reverse install an exhaust flange tube adapter that goes barely inside the collector and weld to the pipes. It creates a shoulder for the gasket and your collector leaks are a thing of the past. Wished I had a pic. Lastly as long as the exhaust ends out from under the truck, all is good.
 

6speedsd

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I think I can picture what you are saying. Maybe I'm the odd ball though because I've never really had an issue with header leaks over the years. I've ran longtubes on several trucks and can't recall having issues making a collector seal up. Maybe I'm just luck in that regard!

I think I'm sticking with the Super 44's, and hopefully can still make them work out the sides like they've been. I like that look exiting in front of the rear tires on these trucks. I have some random exhaust bends laying around so hopefully I can snake it up and over that crossmember and still keep it a clean install.

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6speedsd

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So, those Autolite 25 plugs will not work on GT40 heads. These heads require the full thread plug, which is Autolite 104. The half thread 25's won't even begin to thread into the plug hole. The body of the plug hits before the threads grab. Back to the parts store I go! Lol

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mandkole

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Fug, sorry man.. I’ve never used gt40s but a buddy said he was using them. He probably had e7s. I read the stock explorer plug is good. Start at 035 gap.
 

6speedsd

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It's all good. I ran out of welding wire half way through redoing the exhaust, so I had to run back into town anyways. Got the exhaust finished up last night. I think all I have left is to put the plugs in, fill it with coolant and hook up my carb linkage. Then it'll be time to see if I did everything right by hitting the key!

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rusty1161

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Sweet! I just fired up my 289 to break in the cam last Saturday after sitting for 25 years. It was a great feeling to get it running again.

Rusty
 

6speedsd

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Well, I messed up during assembly. I fired it up this morning, and it would barely run and kept popping back though the carb. I fooled with timing for a while only to confirm I had it right to begin with. Pulled the valve covers and started messing with preload and all that. Somehow I missed the fact that I need shims under the rockers. Guess that was the night I drank too much beer while wrenching. When I torqued them down they'd partially open the valves. Come to find out, from zero lash, it takes over 2 full turns to hit 20ft lbs. So I need shims in a bad way. Those will be here Tuesday and I'll check it again after that. Might end up needing a different length pushrod too, but I'm hoping not.

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mandkole

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Did you check pushrod length? Remember the lifter collapses also so keep jiggling it while to find zero lash.
 

6speedsd

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I did. Stock rods are 6.80". I checked them with my adjustable checker and at 6.70" they wouldn't even snug down. I'd hit torque and the PR would still be loose. I had a huge pattern on the top of the valve...something like .116"...and it was mostly on the outside edge. I'm going to start with shims and go from there.

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