steering linkage and joints

[AllGo'N'Show]

99% hwy I assume?


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Rough numbers but... 80% highway, 20% city. nearly 100% of it is with 20-24k lbs behind it. Mountain passes are not easy miles, motor or drivetrain wise, frost heaving and disrepair coupled with a 53ft trailer means dodging the bad spots aren't always an option.

 

[BIG JUICE]

I've had good luck with moog

 

[lincolnlocker]

I've had good luck with moog

in what?

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Powerstroked6.7]

64,000 and something seems it's getting loose/clunky, and I always replace failing oem parts with something different, what's the point in putting junk back on

 

[BIG JUICE]

front end parts... ball joints and such. I used oem unit bearings though. The replacement oem unit bearings never lasted as long as factory unit.

But the moog ball joints seemed to hold up. I had a gf driving my excursion whom decided the truck should turn like it had hydraulic ram on it in parking lots. The steering linkage joints didn't last but the abuse they received trying to pimp the mall parking lit could't be acceptable by any one's normal expectancy. ended up using heims on that.

 

[gnxtc2]

On the OEM stuff.....there is a difference between the Motorcraft and Ford stuff. So make sure it's a Ford part instead of Motorcraft.

Billy T.
[email protected]

 

[Jomax]

On the OEM stuff.....there is a difference between the Motorcraft and Ford stuff. So make sure it's a Ford part instead of Motorcraft.

Billy T.
[email protected]

X2


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[lincolnlocker]

On the OEM stuff.....there is a difference between the Motorcraft and Ford stuff. So make sure it's a Ford part instead of Motorcraft.

Billy T.
[email protected]

***... didnt realize that. fordparts.com list motorcraft for some and oem on others.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[sootie]

we only use OEM. partly because we get special pricing from ford and secondly because of warranty. they seem to last the longest for us too.

my 2012 needed a complete drag link at 65k miles and feels like it needs the track rod joint as well. tie rods and ball joints are fine.

 

[co04cobra]

Usually some of the parts won't be available in both Ford and motorcraft.

 

[Platinum250Scorpion]

I'm doin me some learnin', didn't know the Ford vs Motorcraft bit.

PMF has a nice lookin drag link and track bar.

Yeah, MOOG has definitely gone downhill at least with some parts, from what I've seen anyhow.

- from farm to Air Force, from 7.3 to 6.7, still fairly new to PSA, diesel junky ever learning... "Life's hard, it's harder when you're stupid" - John Wayne ... I might screw that up once in a while, sorry if I do but, life happens lol

 

[Towerguy]

I'm doin me some learnin', didn't know the Ford vs Motorcraft bit.

PMF has a nice lookin drag link and track bar.

Yeah, MOOG has definitely gone downhill at least with some parts, from what I've seen anyhow.

PMF's drag link uses Moog ends. The outer is probably the Moog equivalent of the stock part so you could use a Ford end there, but you would have to ask about the end at the Pitman arm if you wish to avoid Moog parts.

 

[mikeeg02]

On the OEM stuff.....there is a difference between the Motorcraft and Ford stuff. So make sure it's a Ford part instead of Motorcraft.

Billy T.
[email protected]

I'm pretty sure it used to be that way. But now there's only one option (and I cannot tell you which one it is for sure). I found out the Ford vs Motorcraft difference years ago, and when I bought brakes and ball joints a couple months sgo, my long term friend at the dealer told me now they only offer the one line. The parts came through same as before (ball joints only come with the joint, no nut or anything else) which makes me want to believe it's still the Ford part. But I'm pretty sure there's only one line now. I could be wrong, but I've been buying / specifying OEM parts for about 8 years since I learned about the difference. And the same people still work at the counter, and they knew the difference.

 

[Platinum250Scorpion]

PMF's drag link uses Moog ends. The outer is probably the Moog equivalent of the stock part so you could use a Ford end there, but you would have to ask about the end at the Pitman arm if you wish to avoid Moog parts.

Ah yes, I see what you're sayin. Admittedly I skimmed the descriptions for the three parts the first time. I see now that the drag link is like you're talking about. You'd have to drill out the pitman arm if you wanted to avoid using the Moog part in that end & you're stuck with factory configuration at the steering knuckle. I think it'd still help but, yeah, it wouldn't revamp the whole system. Then, for the HD track bar, it looks like both ends are upgraded to better joints and the ball joint is removed from the equation; there's a win. Though, they do have the direct replacement track bar, for some folks, which only helps the bracket end of the bar. So, eventhough I bet they'd help at least quite a bit, it still isn't a complete change-up. Hopefully in time Trevor will come up with somethin; maybe before I'm do again lol. Thanks for pointing it out though; if for nothin else, for others. Guess I got a little too excited lol.

- from farm to Air Force, from 7.3 to 6.7, still fairly new to PSA, diesel junky ever learning... "Life's hard, it's harder when you're stupid." - John Wayne ... I might screw that up once in a while, sorry if I do but, life happens lol

 

[lincolnlocker]

ok, so ill admit i get paranoid about chit on my truck. for whatever reason i thought chit was loose in the steering linkage, i was wrong.. it is still tight. i compared it to the only superduty in our fleet that just had all that stuff replaced and its the same.. although I did have some movement at the trac rod ball joint so just to be sure i took it to a shop that works on our big trucks(log trucks) and does d.o.t. inspections for us.. the trac rod bushing at the frame was moving a good 1/8 inch and when we pulled it off, i could move the ball joint around and in ine spot it felt like it could have just fell out so that got replaced along with the trac bar and bushing.. that took care of the bad wobble inwas getting but i can still feel the bent rim/bad tire like i have had for a while now.. i run my tire pressure so that they wear evenly across the tread and i noticed that the fronts are not as stiff as they used to be and have a low pressure bulge on the bottom so i aired them back up today to get rid of the low tire pressure scenario because the shop i took it to said that it can very well amplify the bad tire/rim. ill report back later to see if it changed any..

my tires are 35-12.5r18s and only call for 65lbs but i have always ran 48psi in the front and 38psi in the rear to make them wear evenly.. so now i have 54 in the front and 44 in the rears. hopefully they will still wear ok and not take the center lugs out so quickly but i may not have a choice if that truly does help the tire/rim issue..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Jomax]

ok, so ill admit i get paranoid about chit on my truck. for whatever reason i thought chit was loose in the steering linkage, i was wrong.. it is still tight. i compared it to the only superduty in our fleet that just had all that stuff replaced and its the same.. although I did have some movement at the trac rod ball joint so just to be sure i took it to a shop that works on our big trucks(log trucks) and does d.o.t. inspections for us.. the trac rod bushing at the frame was moving a good 1/8 inch and when we pulled it off, i could move the ball joint around and in ine spot it felt like it could have just fell out so that got replaced along with the trac bar and bushing.. that took care of the bad wobble inwas getting but i can still feel the bent rim/bad tire like i have had for a while now.. i run my tire pressure so that they wear evenly across the tread and i noticed that the fronts are not as stiff as they used to be and have a low pressure bulge on the bottom so i aired them back up today to get rid of the low tire pressure scenario because the shop i took it to said that it can very well amplify the bad tire/rim. ill report back later to see if it changed any..

my tires are 35-12.5r18s and only call for 65lbs but i have always ran 48psi in the front and 38psi in the rear to make them wear evenly.. so now i have 54 in the front and 44 in the rears. hopefully they will still wear ok and not take the center lugs out so quickly but i may not have a choice if that truly does help the tire/rim issue..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Have you ever had your tires road forced balanced? Reason I ask is, my brother just bought a new navigator, at 80-85mph it has a vibration(like a slightly bent rim). I had lincoln balance the tires. Nothing. Had my local discount tire road force balance them, it was better but still not what I wanted. I then had my friend at the discount tire which is a manager and doesn't really work anymore balance it for me. It came out 99.9%.


VERY few people can balance a tire to perfection. The 16-17in tires were easy. The 18in and above get harder.


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[lincolnlocker]

Have you ever had your tires road forced balanced? Reason I ask is, my brother just bought a new navigator, at 80-85mph it has a vibration(like a slightly bent rim). I had lincoln balance the tires. Nothing. Had my local discount tire road force balance them, it was better but still not what I wanted. I then had my friend at the discount tire which is a manager and doesn't really work anymore balance it for me. It came out 99.9%.


VERY few people can balance a tire to perfection. The 16-17in tires were easy. The 18in and above get harder.


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no because i run balance beads. i really like them too.. i know its a rim issue.. not saying the tires are 100% good since i have about 20k on them now.. but i know the exact washout on my gravel road back hone that i hit really hard when running late to work in a storm.. its the rim or the hub/spindle on the left side of my truck.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Jomax]

no because i run balance beads. i really like them too.. i know its a rim issue.. not saying the tires are 100% good since i have about 20k on them now.. but i know the exact washout on my gravel road back hone that i hit really hard when running late to work in a storm.. its the rim or the hub/spindle on the left side of my truck.

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Shoulda had a CARLi kit lol


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[lincolnlocker]

Shoulda had a CARLi kit lol


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lol.. eithet way.. something is bent on my truck..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

 

[Jomax]

lol.. eithet way.. something is bent on my truck..

live life full throttle

god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass

Well, go throw those wheels on a road force balancer... You'll find out fast which rim is bent... I would not have lasted this long with a bent rim... Vibrations drive me up the wall.


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