Which injectors/turbo are right for me?

[TyCorr]

Ummm...the stock fuel system NEEDS to be done before you put anything more demanding than a stage 1 in there. I would do it anyway so you can get rock solid fuel pressure all the way throughout the fuel system and shut up some of the inj cackle.

Hybrids and a stock fuel system wouldnt play very nice together Im thinking...stock fuel system and stage 1's max out under 400hp.

 

[TARM]

The stock fuel system needs to be done regardless of anything even if you did not touch a injector or turbo. The stock fuel system is FUBAR for performance, durability and general efficiency of the engine performance as a whole.

AFter getting rid of the stock air box that would be the very next priority IMO if you are looking to have your injectors last, run smoothly, etc...

From there then Exhaust, Gauges, then chip tunes.

After that you can go with valve springs (measured and shimmed), push rods, studs, injectors, turbos etc. An upgrade from the single stock fuel pump as your fuel needs grow. IMHO, if doing this stuff in stages, the fuel system should go in prior and run with the stock pump until then with zero issues.

This of course is only my personal opinion but after a rather exhaustive review as of late.

I would also point out that personally I think a fuel pressure gauge in-cab is as critical possible more depending on usage than a dedicated trans temp. Fuel pumps go out, filters clog, fuses blow, engines over take pump capacity. Any of these happen which can still allow your engine to keep running and may go unnoticed for a time is enough to cook your injector's barrel and plunger. A $1000 bill that a simple fuel psi gauge would have prevented.

For me gauges would go: Turbo Boost, Turbo BP, EGT, Fuel pressure, Scan Gauge which will display any PCM hooked up sensor and one or 2 external IIRC. As well as warn of any codes, list, and clear them.

 

[TyCorr]

The stock fuel system needs to be done regardless of anything even if you did not touch a injector or turbo. The stock fuel system is FUBAR for performance, durability and general efficiency of the engine performance as a whole.

AFter getting rid of the stock air box that would be the very next priority IMO if you are looking to have your injectors last, run smoothly, etc...

From there then Exhaust, Gauges, then chip tunes.

After that you can go with valve springs (measured and shimmed), push rods, studs, injectors, turbos etc. An upgrade from the single stock fuel pump as your fuel needs grow. IMHO, if doing this stuff in stages, the fuel system should go in prior and run with the stock pump until then with zero issues.

This of course is only my personal opinion but after a rather exhaustive review as of late.

I would also point out that personally I think a fuel pressure gauge in-cab is as critical possible more depending on usage than a dedicated trans temp. Fuel pumps go out, filters clog, fuses blow, engines over take pump capacity. Any of these happen which can still allow your engine to keep running and may go unnoticed for a time is enough to cook your injector's barrel and plunger. A $1000 bill that a simple fuel psi gauge would have prevented.

For me gauges would go: Turbo Boost, Turbo BP, EGT, Fuel pressure, Scan Gauge which will display any PCM hooked up sensor and one or 2 external IIRC. As well as warn of any codes, list, and clear them.

Arent there valve springs that dont need shimming TARM? I am going to do studs and springs/pushrods but dont want to have to shim em and all that jazz.

I totally agree with your assessment of the stock fuel system. Dead on!

 

[TARM]

How would a valve spring of a fixed length account for valve, the seat etc wear from head to head cylinder to cylinder?

As far as I know when dealing with used worn heads you must shim if you expect to hit a specific seat pressure and height from head to head and valve to valve.

 

[TyCorr]

I guess you dont get what Im asking you....lemme make sure Im wording this correctly...

Swamps recommends H11 studs/springs/pushrods over the 910's that require shimming. Thats what I was asking but answered my previous question. I am under the impression that these are stiffer and dont require shimming to keep the valves closed.

Sorry if this isnt clear!

 

[CGMKCM]

To the OP, my two cents

Irate's mount, Qssb or Gqssb from WOP, 238/100 injectors, new HPOP Adrenaline or Terminators new one, FRX and get Jody to live tune.

That should get you 400+ horsepower be a good towing set up but still be fun on the street.

If and when you want to ditch the PMRs you have most of the foundation in place to bump things up.

It was a pleasure meeting you at RRE and you have a very nice looking truck.

 

[vanderchevy18]

To the OP, my two cents

Irate's mount, Qssb or Gqssb from WOP, 238/100 injectors, new HPOP Adrenaline or Terminators new one, FRX and get Jody to live tune.

That should get you 400+ horsepower be a good towing set up but still be fun on the street.

If and when you want to ditch the PMRs you have most of the foundation in place to bump things up.

It was a pleasure meeting you at RRE and you have a very nice looking truck.

Not sure I could agree with you on anything except the mount.

Why the qssb or gqssb? The s366 is cheaper and will perform just as good or better. Especially with smaller sticks.

Why not an srp-1? Its almost the same price as the adrenaline and outflows it by a mile. Don't know enough about the t-500 or t-1000 to comment on it.

Why a frx? Personally I think the frx is retarded. Its a poor 4 port feed with no way to let air in the fuel get out of the heads.

Why get 238/100's? 250's are the same price and you get a little more capacity to cushion the plunger. Plus there's a little more power potential before emptying the injector but still just as tunable.

The live tuning by jody is an opinion. Everybody is different.

 

[V-Ref]

400 hp PMR build

Lots of vendors on here can square you away. Just in case you glossed by it...there's a sticky at the top, with two respected vendors solution(s) to your power goals.

Do you have access to a dyno/track, or some-other way to help you quantify that your goals are met after your build? All this stuff isn't cheap...makes for a better experience, if you have something quantifiable to hang your hat on after it's all said and done.

Good luck! Be sure to post up a build thread, when you get started.

 

[TARM]

I guess you dont get what Im asking you....lemme make sure Im wording this correctly...

Swamps recommends H11 studs/springs/pushrods over the 910's that require shimming. Thats what I was asking but answered my previous question. I am under the impression that these are stiffer and dont require shimming to keep the valves closed.

Sorry if this isnt clear!

No you are being very clear and I completely understood your question. I guess its actually you do not understand my answer and I certainly could have made it clearer rather than more leading you to the answer thru questions.

No matter what the spring tension a set of springs has at any given seat height there is a specific spec seat pressure you want. Lets just say its 125. All valves etc in different engines wear at different rates or will have various mileage so varying degrees of wear. A valve spring has a fixed seat pressure @ any given specific seat height. As that is going to be different no only in each and every engine but can be different from each cylinder in the same motor it would be impossible for a valve spring to achieve the same seat height and thus seat pressure from engine to engine or cylinder to cylinder. Example: Install spring in a motor with 100K miles Cylinder 1 intake valve and measure its height its 1.80 Install in cylinder 1 exhaust valve its 1.815. Install in cylinder 8 its 1.78 on intake and 1.79 on exhaust. etc etc Then install engine with 250K miles Cylinder 1 1.90 intake 1.89 exhaust Cylinder 8 1.87 intake 1.86 exhaust. If the springs have a tension of say 450lb per inch of compression how could you ever achieve a consistent and even seat pressure from each cylinders intake/exhaust valve or from one engine to another without shimming to correct the different rates of wear. I guess you could custom machine each spring or machine each spring seat to get the same height but those are changes to hard parts. Much easier and changeable etc to use shims.

 

[TARM]

Not sure I could agree with you on anything except the mount.

Why the qssb or gqssb? The s366 is cheaper and will perform just as good or better. Especially with smaller sticks.

Why not an srp-1? Its almost the same price as the adrenaline and outflows it by a mile. Don't know enough about the t-500 or t-1000 to comment on it.

Why a frx? Personally I think the frx is retarded. Its a poor 4 port feed with no way to let air in the fuel get out of the heads.

Why get 238/100's? 250's are the same price and you get a little more capacity to cushion the plunger. Plus there's a little more power potential before emptying the injector but still just as tunable.

The live tuning by jody is an opinion. Everybody is different.

Not sure I fully agree with all of that.

 

[vanderchevy18]

Well half was question and half was opinion. We're all here to learn and help others. If everyone has the same opinion we wouldn't be discussing it would we.

 

[TARM]

Exactly. I started to type out the parts I felt differently about but figured heck we all have different view points and really V-ref recommendations covers what he should do. LOL Also thought it looked humorous saying I did not fully agree after you had said something rather similar in you response to the other member LOL

 

[TyCorr]

Got ya Tarm. Thats just not the info I got about the H11's. I did hear that the 910's needed to be shimmed to work correctly. I just heard that the h11's are much stiffer and WILL close the valve regardless of differences in seat wear. It might all be bs and I wont know until Im actually doing it. All I can say is, if the 910s have to be shimmed and the H11's do as well then there is a LOT of bad information out there. I dont see the length of any said spring being an issue as the aftermarket ones should be sufficient to open a valve that was opened by a weak(in comparison anyway) spring for 250k miles.

I dont wanna muck the op's questions up anymore, even though this is inline with his mods.

PM me if you've got some additional information for my TARM...I just realized you have HUUUUUUGE injectors in that X....Wow!

 

[V-Ref]

Got ya Tarm. Thats just not the info I got about the H11's. I did hear that the 910's needed to be shimmed to work correctly. I just heard that the h11's are much stiffer and WILL close the valve regardless of differences in seat wear. It might all be bs and I wont know until Im actually doing it. All I can say is, if the 910s have to be shimmed and the H11's do as well then there is a LOT of bad information out there. I dont see the length of any said spring being an issue as the aftermarket ones should be sufficient to open a valve that was opened by a weak(in comparison anyway) spring for 250k miles.

I dont wanna muck the op's questions up anymore, even though this is inline with his mods.

PM me if you've got some additional information for my TARM...I just realized you have HUUUUUUGE injectors in that X....Wow!

I'm under the impression that "H11s" refer to a head stud that's available for the 7.3....not a valve spring. Square me away.

 

[bruce]

Not sure I could agree with you on anything except the mount.

Why the qssb or gqssb? The s366 is cheaper and will perform just as good or better. Especially with smaller sticks.

Why not an srp-1? Its almost the same price as the adrenaline and outflows it by a mile. Don't know enough about the t-500 or t-1000 to comment on it.

Why a frx? Personally I think the frx is retarded. Its a poor 4 port feed with no way to let air in the fuel get out of the heads.

Why get 238/100's? 250's are the same price and you get a little more capacity to cushion the plunger. Plus there's a little more power potential before emptying the injector but still just as tunable.

The live tuning by jody is an opinion. Everybody is different.

tarm may not agree and i think of that guy very highly as he has already forgot more than i know but everything chris stated above is what i was thinkin when i read the post

 

[TyCorr]

yeah the h11's are studs. My bad. Im tired and half asleep.

There are other springs that are available than the 910's(comp cams). Those can be shimmed to compensate for worn valve seats. Common shim sizes are .030 and .060 inches. Not H11 though. H11 is a high tensile strength tool grade steel.

Im out....

 

[BigRedDiesel]

Thanks guys! I really appreciate all the suggestion, I guess it's time to start researching all the parts suggested. Keep them coming!

 

[TyCorr]

Im in the same boat as you, OP. Im doing my hpop, fuel system, and studs/springs/pushrods.

 

[CGMKCM]

Not sure I could agree with you on anything except the mount.

Why the qssb or gqssb? The s366 is cheaper and will perform just as good or better. Especially with smaller sticks.

Why not an srp-1? Its almost the same price as the adrenaline and outflows it by a mile. Don't know enough about the t-500 or t-1000 to comment on it.

Why a frx? Personally I think the frx is retarded. Its a poor 4 port feed with no way to let air in the fuel get out of the heads.

Why get 238/100's? 250's are the same price and you get a little more capacity to cushion the plunger. Plus there's a little more power potential before emptying the injector but still just as tunable.

The live tuning by jody is an opinion. Everybody is different.

The turbo recommendation was based on other posts with feedback from users that tow.
WOP is behind it so I am comfortable with reliability. I would spend a little more for these reasons.
I am not familiar with the turbo you recommended.

SRP-1 Not all feedback has been positive. I think they are working out the bugs and Six months from now it will be a great HPOP.
I have the Adrenaline and it works great with stock split shots so it should work great with smaller Hybrids.

Injectors, I would be concerned with 250's and hybrids. I would also be concerned with 238s and hybrids. I know Pocket has a thread on them and does his own tuning. I think he is the pioneer on what can be done with the 250 Hybrid on PMRs. In the recommendation posted by 389 Six Pack, no vendor recommended higher than stage II injectors for towing.

I don't know about the FRX you are talking about. The one I have is a regulated return and not a feed. It uses the fuel bowl mounted regulator and has springs that are used to adjust fuel system psi.

DP tuner recommendation. He currently runs there tunes and is a satisfied customer.
If I am a satisfied customer, I stick with the vendor.

In closing, the $3000.00 goal is only possible with injectors and 38r only. Realistically with my recommendations the OP is closer to $4200.00.

My recommendations/opinions are slanted towards reliability and towing performance.

 

[V-Ref]

SRP-1 Not all feedback has been positive. I think they are working out the bugs and Six months from now it will be a great HPOP.
I have the Adrenaline and it works great with stock split shots so it should work great with smaller Hybrids.

I encourage your source of negative feedback (I'm assuming it's someone actually running a SRP1?) to post on the SRP1 field report thread. Please elaborate on the bugs you're aware of.