After buying a new truck to replace my 06 dually, I realized I missed using my old truck. I’m sending it in to get studded, new lifters, and probably a cam as well. It was used as my welding truck, and to tow my 40ft gooseneck with materials for some of the jobs I do. I currently have a kc stage 1 turbo, sct 5015 running custom tunes, egr ******, blue spring, 5” cat back exhaust, oem injectors with 20k miles, and all updates. What would be a good cam to run? I was thinking of a stage 1. A dynamic diesel stage 1 is what was recommended to me. Also, what bead gaskets would be best to run?
06 getting some work done
- Thread starter Diesel625
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Zeb
New member
Absolutely NOT a Dynamic Diesel cam. I’ve used a variety and my favorite is a Colt Stage 2.
I’ve used an untold number of the Mahle upper gasket kits (HS54450 if it’s 18mm, HS54579 if it’s 20mm) and have had excellent results, ie, no failures or come backs.
Also, I always torque my ARP 2000’s to 225 ft lbs with ARP Lube on the threads and nuts.
Colt is what I was wanting. Just seeing what other members thought of the dynamic cam. Mahle are the gaskets I was wanting. I’m hoping the cam looks good and I can spend a few dollars elsewhere. I was also thinking of an odawgs intake.
Here’s what I’m planning on doing after all. New oem lpop, colt cam stage 1, oem lifters and pushrods, upgraded valve springs, studs, oringed heads, regulated return, airdog system, front cover, and reseal the whole engine. I’m debating on what injector size to run. I was thinking of 175/30s, but was thinking of maybe doing 190/30. I’m running a kc stage 1 turbo. How would this setup run? I’m hoping it will be a good tow setup.
Factory lifters, as said. Never ridden in a colt stage 1 truck, but the 2 pulled a hell of a lot better and made about 30 more hp than my truck with a rcd stage1 cam, all other things were the same, injectors, turbo, etc. From reading in the 6.4 section I wouldn't deal with dynamic if my life depended on it. Do a search there, and judge for yourself. Id recommend the 190/30s personally. They run great, will run just like a 175/30 normally, but you'll have the extra if needed in a race tune. Remember that tuners tune to nozzle size typically, not body size. Daily and towing the injectors will run identical, but if you get a wild hair, the 190s will make more power in a race tune.
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Zeb
New member
You’ve got a pretty good plan.
Things I’d change:
Colt Stage 2 versus a 1
If you do upgraded valve springs do stiffer pushrods
190/30’s for the reasons Tony mentioned
Don’t use an Airdog. If you want to PM me I’ll give you some fuel system recommendations.
ncollins64
Well-known member
If budget allows you could also look into the hylift Johnson upgraded lifters that RCD sales. I’ve used several sets on some big builds with zero issues and pretty sure Josh uses them on his big builds as well. I think there well worth the money over stock imo. Also been using the stage 1,2, and 3 valve springs and pushrods from Kill Devil and just buying them from KC.
Zeb
New member
Definitely need to measure piston protrusion, valve recession, and need to know valve stem height when installing a Colt Stage 2 cam.
Zeb
New member
100lb springs are definitely adequate. Without looking at what pushrods they offer, I would say get the lightest duty upgraded pushrods they offer.
I personally think valve springs and pushrods are the most overhyped products on a build of this caliber. I’ve run stock valve springs and pushrods on all my stuff (stock power all the way up to right around 800hp).
The general thought it is good insurance against piston to valve contact, but in my experience that issue is more related to clearances and rpm than valve spring pressure.
While I would tend to agree with you on the clearance and rpm deal, the simple fact is, that over time the springs weaken. At 200k who knows what your seat pressure actually is, 40, 50 lbs maybe, maybe less? While stock 80lb springs should be adequate until 80 psi boost or backpressure, it never hurts to over spring it, as long as the cam can take it. Now, on a 200k cam and lifters, id probably kick myself in the balls if I thought id throw a set of 120lb or even 100lb springs on those without changing both the cam and lifters out.
As far as push rods go, with heavier springs, id throw a set in, with stock springs, it would come down to would you rather bend a pushrod if the valve makes contact with the piston, or have the push rod hold up and **** up your valve that hits, if that scenario does happen?
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Zeb
New member
You touched on several good points there.
I should have been more clear when I said stock springs, I meant stock replacement springs, not reused, original springs.
Part of why I recommend the lightest duty upgraded pushrods with stiffer springs is what you mentioned as far as bending the pushrod, or the valve. I’d rather bend the pushrod!
Ok, after talking to some very knowledgeable guys, I’ve decided to go with a stage 2 colt cam, lifters, and kill devil pushrods. Also running the 80lb kill devil springs. Oring heads, and arp 425 studs. Going with stock injectors for now. With a kc stage 1, and good tunes, what should my truck run like? Horsepower estimates?
Zeb
New member
donny688713
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I just rebuilt my 06 6.0 from oilpan to turbo. This is what i done and used. I am using a colt stage 2 cam and lifters 6.4 pushrods from killdevil also their oringed heads and they suggest using felpro head gaskets said he designed the heads for those gaskets. I put a kc turbo stage 2 turbo new lpop kept stock injectors have a regulated fuel return. Im running a ficm tuner with a sct tuner with a ppe tuner on top this set up runs great for just driving around i dont race my truck only pull sometimes but nothing huge a backhoe and skidsteer. I change the tuning when pulling. Also had bottem end balanced. Had crank polished and had blocked rehoned no need for a bigger bore. I have all the power i need and can run like i want without the worry of EGTs getting out there only regret is turbo it only came with the whisle i think its too loud for me oh and i ran 4" from turbo to the back. After all the reading i done for over a year this was what was for me IMO the best setup for anything without killing the motor or pissing off the wallet. My 2 pennies worth.
