After 316,000 miles, I think my truck finally needs the hpop. With the scan gauge, it would only read 250-400 icp. I unplugged the icp sensor and it shoots to 1573, and still does not start. Other than the hpop, what else could it be?
06 no start condition
- Thread starter Diesel625
- Start date
79jasper
Active member
Have you done a air test?
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^whs. I just had one that would die when warm, would read 15psi icp. When cold, I got about 300. He **** an injector top I ring out... Air test would be your friend here. I have seen 1 late build pump **** out. It was some parts store replacement junk ass pos, and it threw, for lack of a better term, the crank out the side of it.
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No air test yet. It’s my next plan. I was kind of thinking maybe the stc fitting or an oil leak. It’s always ran solid. It gave no signs of the pump going out. I drove 150 miles then shut it off. I didn’t move till the end of the day and it wouldn’t start at first. It finally made enough pressure and I drove home another 150 miles. Wouldn’t start as soon as it shut off.
79jasper
Active member
I couldn’t wait for my iPr port test hose to come in, so I went ahead and started tearing a few things down to test other parts of the hpop system. As soon as I took the hpop cover off, I noticed it had the updated stc fitting. Pulled pump so that I could pressure up the rest of the system. I pushed air through the branch tubes and could immediately hear air out of the oil fill tube and gargling on the passenger side. I’m ordering the standpipes and dummy plugs. I will go ahead and get the seals for the oil rails too. Once I rebuild them, I’ll hopefully have the test tool to test the pump as well. I may be getting injectors too, but will definitely get the seals and orings. Anything else I should do while I’m in there?
79jasper
Active member
I wouldn't dick with the nipple cup orings, unless they are definitively leaking.
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I’ve decided to go back with stock parts. Ordered a set of reman motorcraft injectors, standpipes and dummy plugs, stc fitting, going to reseal the oil cooler, valve cover gaskets, glow plugs and orings. Also going to replace the intake coolant oring and the egr ****** hose. The turbo will also get new orings and seals. Hopefully she’ll give me another 316k miles this time around.
BS Hauler
New member
I just don't get the feelings about not resealing the nipple cups and top injector o rings. Why would you not do them if you are that far into it. A human put them in the first time and a human is putting them in this time. They have 316,000 miles on the o rings in the nipple cups.
Usually pass on changing them. Honestly now that you've changed them you've greatly increased your chances for a future failure. O rings can suffer from quality control too. So chances are the ones you're installing are subpar to what's in there. I've never seen one fail and don't expect to.
When someone comes across the counter for the seals and tool I kinda giggle cause they've exhausted all options or read too much off Google.
When someone comes across the counter for the seals and tool I kinda giggle cause they've exhausted all options or read too much off Google.
79jasper
Active member
^ I thought that was the common knowledge/general consensus on the subject.
Seen many talks of leaks afterwards.
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Seen many talks of leaks afterwards.
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^what they said. I think I've seen one leak, replaced a few rails due to damage to the,nipple from o rings on the injector blowing out, but that was a different deal altogether. Ive seen trucks with 500k on them with the rails never been changed, and seals never done on them.
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Zeb
New member
I’ve got a feeling I know what truck this was.
Well, got injectors and stand pipe with dummy plugs on passenger side in. Still didn’t put hpop in, but pressured up through the branch tubes. Still leaks. Used nothing but ford parts. I can’t tell for sure, but it seems like the leak is coming from the nipple orings. Other than the injectors, dummy plugs and standpipe, or the rail itself, where could it be coming from? I hope it’s not the branch tube itself. The nipples had a little slack, but weren’t very loose at all.
Some air leaking from around the top of the injectors is normal when they are dry. It takes some oil to get a good seal. Get the pump in, fire it and drive the **** outta it. The let it sit for 10-15 minutes and see if it restarts.
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