slim613
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yea i aint got any blow by really and seems farley strong but of well
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You mean low rpm cylinder pressure. your not making any torque at 1000 rpms. its all about tuning.
I would run gear heads stage one can in a heart beat. It does everything like the stock can but better with no negative side effects. You don't see people running them much because it seems as if 7.3 people are scared of cams idk. Every person that has ran one seems to be happy
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Honestly I'd run a brute 66 before I ran an s366. If you could find a modded h2e and some pis 230/100's that would be a good combo. I'd also put the cryo forged rod money elsewhere.
Performance injection systems. Brute 66 is a journal bearing version of a 38r made by no limit tunin and a few others.
Yeah it's rebuildable, if you're goin t4 then get the s468 and some 250/200
Yeah it's rebuildable, if you're goin t4 then get the s468 and some 250/200
250/200's are the same money, you might want to go bigger someday
Tow tunes stay close to the same hp regardless of mods. When I ran 160/100 and a 38r my tow tune was 375, now that I run 300/200 and a 71mm h2e the tow tune is still nearly the same hp. With good tunin 250/200's are safe on forged rods
iv kinda decided that im gonna cam it either way just see with my build
build it, break it in, live tune it and post up my sheet and compare to see any changes
i heard negative on low side and positives on the top
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You need to give matt a call and talk to him about the stage one. There are no negatives to the stage 1 cam. You will benefit through out the entire rpm range especially with the ported heads. You may be thinking about the stage 2 that you will loose a little on the low end due to the decrease in the dynamic compression under about 10psi of boost from the increased amount of time of overlap.
Fwiw if it was my tow rig build. I would run full force 250/100s and a s468 with a 1.0 exhaust housing. My 468 with a 1.15 house was nearly as responsive as my 38r and I'd imagine the 1.0 would be even better. The cam and port work will only complement these.
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If your paying to rebuild an engine I would look into getting some billet or after market stronger connecting rods. I'm not sure how much the difference is but when your wreck a block you just wasted a lot more money and time.
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