2wd vs 4wd for the track

[swinky]

And that's why you have 2 sets of wheels and tires. If you're building a 10 second truck, your class won't require DOT approved tires anyway unless you have some sick need to run an ET pass.

Right but that second set of tires will be useless as far as traction goes.

 

[Cutting-Edge Diesel]

Right but that second set of tires will be useless as far as traction goes.

Not if they were ET streets. But I don't get your point here? It's the street :shrug: just don't drive it with the pedal on the floor and it won't matter.



But if I was going to build a truck with no class in mind I would go 2wd back half. If you start talking classes them things are different

 

[cbf9703]

I know our goals are ambitious. We are hoping to hit the 900-1000hp mark... so hopefully that gets us into the 10s. We want it to look nice, make good power, and drive around on the streets.

I already have a 600-700hp DD ccsb. Using anything over 600hp on the streets is pretty useless. Its hard to keep traction under 50mph and keep from clearing a couple lanes of traffic. Not many places to do 50-100mph in a big city.

With this project truck we just want the ability to drive it on the streets, with the understanding that you cant really use 1000hp on the streets. Drag racing is not very big where we are from. We are doing this for R&D purposes... maybe we will catch the bug and start competing.

Right but that second set of tires will be useless as far as traction goes.

I'm not sure your point? We've already established that no one is expecting to hold traction with that much hp on the street...

 

[swinky]

A 4x4 would. I see what you two are getting at though and agree. I need to get better at keeping the shenanigans on the track, these tickets are adding up :badidea:

anybody know what hallers best 60' is?

 

[BOSS450]

In your original post you stated that you were building this truck, not as a drag truck, however as more of a show/test truck. I would also venture to say that more of your target audience is going to be younger kids who like to call their stock, tuned, 4x4 trucks "race trucks."

On my truck i considered several factors. The one that decided it was that I'm not a suspension guy and I built the truck myself. Don't want to have to keep changing the suspension. Keep it simple and just have fun.My .02

As a side note with minimal suspension work I can put down over a thousand hp on the street with a 4x4.

 

[KCTurbos]

Thanks for all the replies and help... seems like there is a general consensus that there are advantages and disadvantages to each setup, and it all depends on what we want


2wd = lighter, potentially faster when done right (less weight), more expensive to do it right and seems to require a lot of suspension work, seems like the way to go for anyone super serious in competing.

4wd = heavier in weight and rotational mass, much easier to get traction, does not require any custom suspension (other than traction bars), seems to be the easier cheaper route but will have downsides when getting super serious in competition.

 

[swinky]

Sounds about right. The 2wd trucks like stuckeys and that green common rail dodge (unlimited diesel?) are super fun to watch and are very competitive.

like said before though, If you're using this truck to try and sell turbos I think a 4x4 will be your best bet. forget the 10 second on fuel goal and make a reliable 4x4 that runs mid 11s on fuel only with one of your vgts. If you spray it to high 10s that will speak for the reliability of your turbo. Make something all the 14 second #racetruck kids think they can replicate.

 

[sootie]

werd^^^^

figure out your target market and do whatever you can to please that crowd. its all about business.

 

[HS-MotorsportsZane]

We have done both, and built many trucks for different purposes.
Drag racing 2wd, no questions asked.....another advantage with a 2wd is you can get the truck lower, and it will always weigh less than the 4wd.
Street queen and keeping it on the cheaper side....4wd
Just my opinions...............

 

[KCTurbos]

Well we are still on the fence about what we want... but now we better understand the pros and cons. Thanks


We bought this truck earlier this year with plans to make it the test truck. Up until now we have done most of our testing on the dyno. Same dyno, same truck, same conditions etc... It has been very helpful and beneficial to us in the R&D department. But we would like to also start testing/playing at the track. They just re-opened the local track which helps. At this point in time we dont plan on competing... but once we get the bug we don't want to regret our decisions on which platform to start with. But I would venture to say for our goals right now a 4wd would be best... but we might regret not starting with a 2wd later down the road.


This is not planned on being a DD... yet we want the ability to DD the truck anytime we want. Especially if we want to drive down to the local track or shows here in town. Swapping tires for competition or track testings should not be hard.

 

[andrewsteelerford05]

What is your plan for injector and turbo size? If I am correct you want the truck around 1000 hp correct?

 

[6 L chevy eater]

I vote 4wd. And 1000hp is thrown around so loosely. Its not a very easy to accomplish and its very costly. And to actually have that kind of power and use it to the fullest its takes one hell of a build.

Takes lots of fuel, oil, and a little spray. And deep pocket book.

Good luck. Hope it works well for u guys.

IMO. I would build a solid 800hp truck and be happy with it. Things will last alot longer around the 800hp range rather than the 1000hp ish mark

 

[KCTurbos]

I did not want to get caught up in build thread details because that was not the purpose of the thread... but... we do have a goal of 1000hp. But it is just that, a goal. We will see how close we can get to our goal. I know many have tried and failed. I don't want to sound naive. We understand the task at hand is not probable and not easy, but that is half the fun.

Nothing is 100% decided and we are only doing research for right now. We have a general idea of what we want to do but we are going to research and plan things out over the next year. We plan to start a build thread to get some input from guys who are more experienced.

Here is a general idea:
Twin HPOPs
Injectors (350/100 or 400/125 or 450/150hybrids)
Fully built motor (forged rods, custom pistons, cam, push rods, valve springs, upgraded lpop, possibly bored to 6.4, possibly billet heads)
Fully built billet tranny (5r110)
Water to Air intercooler


Turbo- We plan to do a lot of R&D in this department (of course :thumbsup. We plan to to mess around with large vgt (73-75mm) and large non vgt (75-80mm) and compounds. I imagine compounds is what we are going to end up with.

 

[swinky]

I did not want to get caught up in build thread details because that was not the purpose of the thread... but... we do have a goal of 1000hp. But it is just that, a goal. We will see how close we can get to our goal. I know many have tried and failed. I don't want to sound naive. We understand the task at hand is not probable and not easy, but that is half the fun.

Nothing is 100% decided and we are only doing research for right now. We have a general idea of what we want to do but we are going to research and plan things out over the next year. We plan to start a build thread to get some input from guys who are more experienced.

Here is a general idea:
Twin HPOPs
Injectors (350/100 or 400/125 or 450/150hybrids)
Fully built motor (forged rods, custom pistons, cam, push rods, valve springs, upgraded lpop, possibly bored to 6.4, possibly billet heads)
Fully built billet tranny (5r110)
Water to Air intercooler


Turbo- We plan to do a lot of R&D in this department (of course :thumbsup. We plan to to mess around with large vgt (73-75mm) and large non vgt (75-80mm) and compounds. I imagine compounds is what we are going to end up with.

I dont think you can bore a 6.0 that far. .040 over is about max.

skip the bore, put a 4r in it, s475 and spray the nuts off of it.

 

[BOSS450]

I dont think you can bore a 6.0 that far. .040 over is about max.

skip the bore, put a 4r in it, s475 and spray the nuts off of it.

I like that idea. Won't really test turbos. Just get you nowhere really fast. But the idea... Solid

 

[swinky]

I like that idea. Won't really test turbos. Just get you nowhere really fast. But the idea... Solid

That's the point right?

 

[BOSS450]

That's the point right?

That's half his goal I think. Op is wanting to test turbos. Gate and spray can make most any turbo shine.

I, however, think it's a great idea.

 

[swinky]

Since we're talking about drag racing how much weight is lost with removing the spare and hitch?

Bumper vs roll pan?

 

[KCTurbos]

I dont think you can bore a 6.0 that far. .040 over is about max.

skip the bore, put a 4r in it, s475 and spray the nuts off of it.

LOL... where would the fun be in that? No turbo testing there.



I have not heard of anyone doing it yet but from what I understand the 6.0 vs 6.4 block are VERY VERY similar. There should be no problem boring out the 6.0 to 6.4 (that would be .120 over) That is basically what the 2008-2010 6.4 motor is, just a bored out 6.0. The 6.4 guys can even bore out a little bit before running into any issues. I have thought about going .130-.140 over to be even just a little bigger. They don't make standard .120 oversized pistons for the 6.0, but they can be custom ordered. I was just going to get some 6.4 pistons and modify the wrist pin and rod to accept it... but then I would end up with a bigger potential of cracked pistons.

 

[slc dzl]

LOL... where would the fun be in that? No turbo testing there.



I have not heard of anyone doing it yet but from what I understand the 6.0 vs 6.4 block are VERY VERY similar. There should be no problem boring out the 6.0 to 6.4 (that would be .120 over) That is basically what the 2008-2010 6.4 motor is, just a bored out 6.0. The 6.4 guys can even bore out a little bit before running into any issues. I have thought about going .130-.140 over to be even just a little bigger. They don't make standard .120 oversized pistons for the 6.0, but they can be custom ordered. I was just going to get some 6.4 pistons and modify the wrist pin and rod to accept it... but then I would end up with a bigger potential of cracked pistons.

If you use the 6.4 piston will the bowl design still work for the 6.0?