psduser1
Well-known member
Ummmm, swamps
Pretty sure this is the answer to the question, lol.
Ever had this truck/engine on a dyno? Before you get your pride hurt, I'd call swamps i.e. golfer on here, and talk to them. They have a pretty deep background. May learn a few things the easy way, lol.
Yea that pretty much sums it up lol. I have had it on the dyno and I'm just breaking 600ft lbs which I was kinda bummed about, but I get great mileage so I can't get everything lol. I don't get my pride hurt over a truck putting down crappy numbers. It's doing something way past what it was originally designed to do so anything over 525 at the crank is wonderful lol
I'm hoping golfer comes to the rescue on this one. I have read a lot of threads on this but can't seem to commit all of the info to long term memory.Ummmm, swamps
Torque is not your friend...
Serious about the swamps thing, Dave has been around enough to forget more than 10 people on here.
What torque number should I be putting down with what's in the sig on a beans 150 race tune?
6-700. Like I said, torque is not your friend.
No more than 1k, and that would pushing it.
A big torque number is easy. So are vented blocks. That's why tuning has changed, a lot, in the last 6-7 yrs, lol.
Better to look at the hp curve, make that wide and flat, and give up the punch on the "bottom". Move the rpm range to 18-3200, on a stock block.
Saw your last post, that's respectable on stock injectors. (?)
Good point about the electrical side. I bet someone has a solution to that one also. I seem to remember some comments from other threads eluding to that. I could be wrong though, as my brain has gone to chit lately. Maybe stiffer spring and stronger electromagnetics. IDM would need to be beefed up too. Ported heads and aftermarket cam are a no brainer for high rpm operation. If the p-pump conversions can reach higher rpm's then the heui system should be able to get close once it's other short comings are addressed. Though I have not followed the p-pump thread well enough to be able to extrapolate.
he has prolly forgot more then most people even know on here.. he usually dont get into threads like this where its easier to talk to a fence post...Torque is not your friend...
Serious about the swamps thing, Dave has been around enough to forget more than 10 people on here.
Would moving the curve up be to alleviate excessive cylinder pressure down low? My Powerband doesn't even come into play until 1600 and it suddenly wakes up and drops off right around 3k. It really comes alive at about 2200 when boost peaks at about 26psi
he has prolly forgot more then most people even know on here.. he usually dont get into threads like this where its easier to talk to a fence post...
and ty nailed it.. well im sure ty pulled that from someone else's ass cuz he not a smart feller
Yup.
Sounds about right. Big heavy parts, takes a second to get moving. About the time it does, you're outta fuel and air, lol.
You can change some mechanical parts, and make that window bigger. Different turbo, different injectors, and after about 7k in parts, you'll still be limited by electronics.
Sorry.
No....7ms for the signal to travel from the pcm to the idm and then for it to actually begin to move the solenoid...well, 7ms. The hvhf idm helps but it is what it is..
Tuning advances aside, we're on the backside of this unfortunately.
That's right, have to compensate for the delay. These things really need an aftermarket pcm/idm combo. You would think that with all of the 7.3's on the road someone would have come out with something similar to a Hondata. I guess diesels/7.3's just aren't as cool/trendy as gay azz Hondas.
It's threads like this that help solidify my knowledge of the shortcomings with the 7.3. Thanks for getting me straight.
It is a wonderful motor as long as you understand these shortcomings. In my opinion, you reach a point of diminishing returns once you go over 400 to 450 hp. Longevity is most likely going to go to the crapper. 38r and some 160/30s for PMR's or maybe a slightly bigger injector and T4 mount turbo (BASB or whatever) for a forged rod motor is all you need for a well rounded truck. Though you could still probably stick with the 38r here too. Go with some conservative tuning from someone like gearhead and you should be golden.So the shortcomings of the 7.3 are the trade off for a wonderfully reliable motor that can just keep pulling and pulling?
Honestly, I'd be more than happy with 400-450hp. I have forged rods sitting in a box with some pistons ready to go if it ever calls for it. I have been on the phone with gearheads a few times trying to figure out the best way to go and I'm waiting to get a set of injectors before I go with another tuner, as I'd have to send my chip to them every time I need a reflash since they won't email tunes due to encryption fears. I guess they don't want people knowing their secret lol