6.0 dies when warm
- Thread starter nsfr1206
- Start date
79jasper
Active member
No, that leak is your problem.
No high pressure oil = no start.
I guess some literature somewhere may call it a "fuel rail," but it is a high pressure oil rail.
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No high pressure oil = no start.
I guess some literature somewhere may call it a "fuel rail," but it is a high pressure oil rail.
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Ok... a few questions. Evidently somebody has been in here before, which isn’t a surprise given the miles in the truck. Note the different colored injectors. And the fact that two of the harder torx head bolts to get to were loose.
Why are there torx head and socket head bolts both holding the oil rail down? Is there a purpose for the different styles?
What do I need to be looking for here? There aren’t any orings that I can see except I assume the ones in the tops of the injectors.
Will I need to pull that front injector that was leaky to determine the problem?
Do most change the valve cover gasket while it is off?
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79jasper
Active member
I can't say on the mix-match of fasteners. My 03 had 8mm head bolts.
You can look down into the injector to look at the oring. Can also look at the nipple cup for wear. Does it move with resistance or freely?
https://youtu.be/Vsh7Heow61c
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You can look down into the injector to look at the oring. Can also look at the nipple cup for wear. Does it move with resistance or freely?
https://youtu.be/Vsh7Heow61c
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79jasper
Active member
Correct. Lol
Some people prefer pulling the injector and replacing the oring on the bench.
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Some people prefer pulling the injector and replacing the oring on the bench.
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BS Hauler
New member
I would do all the o rings in the nipple cups and top of the injectors along with new standpipes and dummy plugs as long as you are that far into it.
Read some more on here and replacing all the orings is not advised on another thread. They advised that person against it. Spent most of last week in Las Vegas for World of Concrete but hope to get this thing buttoned up this week. Do most replace the valve cover gaskets while the valve cover is off?
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webb06
Active member
I wouldn’t mess with nipple cup o rings. Just replace the top injector seal o rings. They can be a pain in the engine if you’ve never done it before so you might want to remove each injector to to so.
Not unless they’re broken or were leaking. Rarely replace valve cover gaskets.
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Well.... replaced two orings and put it back together. Started and drove. Backed into shop and same thing, won’t start. I did air test after putting air rail back on but it seemed like the oring was holding better than it had been. Still a bit of air gurgling from somewhere but not like it had been.
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webb06
Active member
Did you replace that old style dummy plug in the oil rail a few pictures up? Chances are the o rings on it are bad as well. Could also have o rings on driver side injectors leaking.
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The IPR defaults to the open position. When you turn the ignition key on, 12v power (positive) is applied, but the valve won't move until the PCM apples the gound.
So, the dealerships can command the PCM, but the average person doesn't have that equipment.
- You can tap into the IPR ground wire and jumper it to ground.
- You can get an entire new harness and rig up wires (end even a switch) to run it to power and ground
- You can buy an already made harness, wires, and switch
- you can backprobe a PCM wire and run it to ground at one of the PCM connectors
You can use an old IPR connector (part # 6E7Z-12A690-DA) from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for only a minute or two (MAX of 120 seconds not to damage the IPR). You could also try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness that's laying around. Red wire switched power Pin 1 B+; Yellow/red PCM supplied ground Pin 2 B-.
https://www.denlorstools.com/home/d..._ford_diesel_6.0l_ipr_controller__tester.html
Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping to ground pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR. On the IPR connector, Pin 1 is VPower (switched power) and Pin 2 is the ground from the PCM connector.
To get to the IPR - Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!
So, the dealerships can command the PCM, but the average person doesn't have that equipment.
- You can tap into the IPR ground wire and jumper it to ground.
- You can get an entire new harness and rig up wires (end even a switch) to run it to power and ground
- You can buy an already made harness, wires, and switch
- you can backprobe a PCM wire and run it to ground at one of the PCM connectors
You can use an old IPR connector (part # 6E7Z-12A690-DA) from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for only a minute or two (MAX of 120 seconds not to damage the IPR). You could also try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness that's laying around. Red wire switched power Pin 1 B+; Yellow/red PCM supplied ground Pin 2 B-.
https://www.denlorstools.com/home/d..._ford_diesel_6.0l_ipr_controller__tester.html
Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping to ground pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR. On the IPR connector, Pin 1 is VPower (switched power) and Pin 2 is the ground from the PCM connector.
To get to the IPR - Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!
