6.0 dies when warm

[nsfr1206]

Yes but I thought some called it fuel rail too. So if it’s injector that’s not my starting problem correct? Could the other be my problem?


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[79jasper]

No, that leak is your problem.
No high pressure oil = no start.
I guess some literature somewhere may call it a "fuel rail," but it is a high pressure oil rail.

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[nsfr1206]

Thank you. Ok. So I’ll take the oil rail off and see what’s cooking.


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[nsfr1206]

Ok... a few questions. Evidently somebody has been in here before, which isn’t a surprise given the miles in the truck. Note the different colored injectors. And the fact that two of the harder torx head bolts to get to were loose.

Why are there torx head and socket head bolts both holding the oil rail down? Is there a purpose for the different styles?

What do I need to be looking for here? There aren’t any orings that I can see except I assume the ones in the tops of the injectors.

Will I need to pull that front injector that was leaky to determine the problem?

Do most change the valve cover gasket while it is off?


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[79jasper]

I can't say on the mix-match of fasteners. My 03 had 8mm head bolts.
You can look down into the injector to look at the oring. Can also look at the nipple cup for wear. Does it move with resistance or freely?
https://youtu.be/Vsh7Heow61c

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[nsfr1206]

The oring in the first injector (#1?) is chewed up looking and broken. Are they available or do I need a new injector?


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[nsfr1206]

To answer my own question, and for future folk fixing, yes, there are orings available.


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[79jasper]

Correct. Lol
Some people prefer pulling the injector and replacing the oring on the bench.

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[BS Hauler]

I would do all the o rings in the nipple cups and top of the injectors along with new standpipes and dummy plugs as long as you are that far into it.

 

[nsfr1206]

Yeah I plan to I reckon


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[nsfr1206]

Read some more on here and replacing all the orings is not advised on another thread. They advised that person against it. Spent most of last week in Las Vegas for World of Concrete but hope to get this thing buttoned up this week. Do most replace the valve cover gaskets while the valve cover is off?


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[webb06]

Read some more on here and replacing all the orings is not advised on another thread. They advised that person against it. Spent most of last week in Las Vegas for World of Concrete but hope to get this thing buttoned up this week. Do most replace the valve cover gaskets while the valve cover is off?


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I wouldn’t mess with nipple cup o rings. Just replace the top injector seal o rings. They can be a pain in the engine if you’ve never done it before so you might want to remove each injector to to so.

Not unless they’re broken or were leaking. Rarely replace valve cover gaskets.


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[nsfr1206]

Oh. Nipple orings and top injector orings are two different things. Thanks.


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[nsfr1206]

Well.... replaced two orings and put it back together. Started and drove. Backed into shop and same thing, won’t start. I did air test after putting air rail back on but it seemed like the oring was holding better than it had been. Still a bit of air gurgling from somewhere but not like it had been.


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[webb06]

Well.... replaced two orings and put it back together. Started and drove. Backed into shop and same thing, won’t start. I did air test after putting air rail back on but it seemed like the oring was holding better than it had been. Still a bit of air gurgling from somewhere but not like it had been.


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Did you replace that old style dummy plug in the oil rail a few pictures up? Chances are the o rings on it are bad as well. Could also have o rings on driver side injectors leaking.


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[nsfr1206]

Yes, I replaced the standpipe and dummy plug with new.


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[bismic]

Scanning through the whole thread, I didn't see where you were closing the IPR valve before air testing. You are closing that valve aren't you?

 

[nsfr1206]

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[nsfr1206]

So.... how exactly does this work?


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[bismic]

The IPR defaults to the open position. When you turn the ignition key on, 12v power (positive) is applied, but the valve won't move until the PCM apples the gound.

So, the dealerships can command the PCM, but the average person doesn't have that equipment.

- You can tap into the IPR ground wire and jumper it to ground.
- You can get an entire new harness and rig up wires (end even a switch) to run it to power and ground
- You can buy an already made harness, wires, and switch
- you can backprobe a PCM wire and run it to ground at one of the PCM connectors

You can use an old IPR connector (part # 6E7Z-12A690-DA) from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and only keep it plugged in for only a minute or two (MAX of 120 seconds not to damage the IPR). You could also try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness that's laying around. Red wire switched power Pin 1 B+; Yellow/red PCM supplied ground Pin 2 B-.

https://www.denlorstools.com/home/d..._ford_diesel_6.0l_ipr_controller__tester.html

Without a scan tool to take active command of IPR duty to 100%, you can do it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping to ground pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access unless it's MIA) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR. On the IPR connector, Pin 1 is VPower (switched power) and Pin 2 is the ground from the PCM connector.

To get to the IPR - Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!