e99coalbaron
New member
I do have a chip installed, ill have to mess with it tomorrow. Thanks man!
7.3 no start aftert new inj.
- Thread starter e99coalbaron
- Start date
e99coalbaron
New member
Messing with the chip didn't work.
How in hell can this thread still be going?
There are three things to check...
ICP, Duty cycle and electrical...
Does it build ICP?
What is the duty cycle when it builds ICP?
Does it pass a buzz test?
Its a fricking 7.3... Its no airplane.
There are three things to check...
ICP, Duty cycle and electrical...
Does it build ICP?
What is the duty cycle when it builds ICP?
Does it pass a buzz test?
Its a fricking 7.3... Its no airplane.
Arisley
Moderator
Airplanes are simpler Joe. They have gauges that monitor everything. OK, in your case, nevermind.
But yes, I agree, there is no secret thing that will keep a 7.3 from running.
Perfect excuse to buy either a Aeroforce Scangauge or AE. Either one will pay for themselves with the first issue you have.
But yes, I agree, there is no secret thing that will keep a 7.3 from running.
Perfect excuse to buy either a Aeroforce Scangauge or AE. Either one will pay for themselves with the first issue you have.
e99coalbaron
New member
Im going to buy AE but I have some things that need to be paid first.
average
New member
Mine took a while to light after I put in the hybrids, to the point where I got kinda worried, but after a couple minutes of cranking and time on the battery charger all was well.
2000wa250
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2011
- Messages
- 1,048
- Reaction score
- 0
Out of the three times I've swapped injectors in my truck, and 2 other times in other trucks, only once did I have an issue. It was the first swap, and I had pulled the PCM to install the chip. Cranked and cranked, hooked up a buddies tow truck to the batteries and cranked and cranked, no joy. Double and triple checked all electrical connections, pulled valve covers and checked everything, had oil in the res. Still nothing. Bought AE and hooked it up and tried to run a buzz test and it came back as unable to communicate with the IDM. Turns out when I put the PCM back in, I had bent 4 of the pins. 2 werent connected to anything, but the other 2 were controlling the IDM and the IPR. Straightened and pulled the pins back out, cranked it once and it fired right up like there hadnt been a single thing done to it.
All the other swaps started immediately, which I believe is because after putting the injectors in, I crank it over by hand a few times, then bump the starter for about 5-10 seconds usually 4 times to not only clear the cylinders, but also to prime the entire system. Works every time. Just did mine yesterday, and after sitting with no injectors in it for 2 weeks and the system completely open, it fired up within 5 seconds of turning the key. You have an issue somewhere, and its most likely something you touched or worked on while you were in there.
You said you have a chip, did you just install it? Did you remove the PCM to install it? If you did my money's on you either having a loose connector to the PCM, a loose 52 pin connector, or bent/pushed in pins on the PCM.
Like Joe said, these things are pretty basic as far as starting goes. Oil pressure, voltage, fuel, and air. If its cranking and sounding normal, you should have enough RPM to trigger the IDM to fire, if your voltage while cranking isnt dropping below 10.5 you have enough voltage to fire the injectors, and if you have oil in the res, chances are you are generating enough pressure for the PCM to send the fire signal. If you have down time, try cracking one of the plugs in the oil rail. If you do this and oil starts seeping out, you have oil pressure in the rails. DO NOT TRY THIS WHILE CRANKING UNLESS YOU WANT TO ADD A COAT OF RUST PREVENTION TO ANYTHING WITHIN 10 FEET OF YOUR MOTOR.
Like said, you really should get an AE or scangauge hooked up to it while cranking to verify that you are building pressure.
One more thing....are all the lights on the dash coming on and turning off normally? Do you have a no start position on your TS chip? If so which position is it? Have you tried starting it without the chip?
All the other swaps started immediately, which I believe is because after putting the injectors in, I crank it over by hand a few times, then bump the starter for about 5-10 seconds usually 4 times to not only clear the cylinders, but also to prime the entire system. Works every time. Just did mine yesterday, and after sitting with no injectors in it for 2 weeks and the system completely open, it fired up within 5 seconds of turning the key. You have an issue somewhere, and its most likely something you touched or worked on while you were in there.
You said you have a chip, did you just install it? Did you remove the PCM to install it? If you did my money's on you either having a loose connector to the PCM, a loose 52 pin connector, or bent/pushed in pins on the PCM.
Like Joe said, these things are pretty basic as far as starting goes. Oil pressure, voltage, fuel, and air. If its cranking and sounding normal, you should have enough RPM to trigger the IDM to fire, if your voltage while cranking isnt dropping below 10.5 you have enough voltage to fire the injectors, and if you have oil in the res, chances are you are generating enough pressure for the PCM to send the fire signal. If you have down time, try cracking one of the plugs in the oil rail. If you do this and oil starts seeping out, you have oil pressure in the rails. DO NOT TRY THIS WHILE CRANKING UNLESS YOU WANT TO ADD A COAT OF RUST PREVENTION TO ANYTHING WITHIN 10 FEET OF YOUR MOTOR.
Like said, you really should get an AE or scangauge hooked up to it while cranking to verify that you are building pressure.
One more thing....are all the lights on the dash coming on and turning off normally? Do you have a no start position on your TS chip? If so which position is it? Have you tried starting it without the chip?
ryanss22
New member
any word on the truck??? figure it all out?
e99coalbaron
New member
Chip has been installed for over a year and I did not remove the PCM. Haven't messed with the truck lately, been working alot. Gonna mess with it once I get some free time, until then it's still a yard ornament
e99coalbaron
New member
5 of the 8 injectors were junk.
GreenF350
Member
Wow...were these new (or reman) injectors or just some used ones from a junkyard or something to get it going?
-Aaron
e99coalbaron
New member
A set out of another motor I had. It ran when the motor was pull. Idk what caused this, all I was told was that 5 were junk...
e99coalbaron
New member
The injectors were cleaned, re-oringed and flow tested before I put them in also.
Did you bother to refill the oil rails and HPOP then go thru a cycle of crank it a few times then refill the hpop till it stays just below the top. Then crank to start.
I know the mechanic said some of the injectors were bad but that might not have been the reason it did not start. It takes a good bit of cranking to fill the HPOP res and oil rails and injectors. Add to that a slow stock high draw starter it could drain a batteries trying to start it.
I know the mechanic said some of the injectors were bad but that might not have been the reason it did not start. It takes a good bit of cranking to fill the HPOP res and oil rails and injectors. Add to that a slow stock high draw starter it could drain a batteries trying to start it.
e99coalbaron
New member
I did make sure the hpop res was full between cranking cycles but never bothered the check the rails until someone mentioned it... I was just updating the thread. The mechanic is a buddy of mine so ill know more when he knows more. It's taking a while cause he's doing it for the cost of parts
e99coalbaron
New member
He also mentioned something about the icp spiking? But didn't go into great detail about it
JD3020
Active member
Maybe theres an air bubble trapped at the ICP sensor? Or the IPR is messed up?
e99coalbaron
New member
Both the icp and the ipr are new before the injectors so I know they're good. As far as the air bubble, I have no idea.
how was that determined? These injectors came from a good running motor and suddenly they are junk? There better be a good trail of troubleshooting and testing to support that one... good luck man
Latest posts
-
Will a 1996 F6TZ-9A451-F engine wiring harness work on a 1997 f250 HD ?
- Latest: 6.7powersmoke
-
-
-
-