OuchThatHurt
Member
Any change once you installed the pump? I haven't even touched my truck.
96 f250 runs like crap
- Thread starter OuchThatHurt
- Start date
Sorry I hate to be that guy that fixes his stuff and ignores the follow up. Was dealing with the suspension's death wobble.
I ended up with 55 PSI on my guage and it helped a lot. I tried doing a burnout with the guage hooked up and if I remember it held 55 psi.. maybe dropped to 40 though, I forget.
My issue currently though is boost leak. I bought a $12 OBD2 adapter and bought the Torque Pro app and am able to read a lot of stuff. I can only pull in about 8-9 PSI of boost though and get a spudder. My hpop idles at 600 psi and gets up to 3000 psi at WOT. I think that's within spec. IPR duty is like 14% at idle and I think is normal at WOT.
I get a spudder on hard acceleration and I think the spudder is an exhaust manifold leak. My fenders are rotted out and exhaust manifolds very very rusty.
Plan now is to get new up pipes from Advance Auto ($150 w/ 30% off couppon and $20 off coupon) and get new exhaust manifolds.
I'll re-look over the thread and see if anything stands out now after learning some more about it. Also did you get the OBD2 adapter and Torque Pro working?
I ended up with 55 PSI on my guage and it helped a lot. I tried doing a burnout with the guage hooked up and if I remember it held 55 psi.. maybe dropped to 40 though, I forget.
My issue currently though is boost leak. I bought a $12 OBD2 adapter and bought the Torque Pro app and am able to read a lot of stuff. I can only pull in about 8-9 PSI of boost though and get a spudder. My hpop idles at 600 psi and gets up to 3000 psi at WOT. I think that's within spec. IPR duty is like 14% at idle and I think is normal at WOT.
I get a spudder on hard acceleration and I think the spudder is an exhaust manifold leak. My fenders are rotted out and exhaust manifolds very very rusty.
Plan now is to get new up pipes from Advance Auto ($150 w/ 30% off couppon and $20 off coupon) and get new exhaust manifolds.
I'll re-look over the thread and see if anything stands out now after learning some more about it. Also did you get the OBD2 adapter and Torque Pro working?
OuchThatHurt
Member
I did get the adapter and both apps... but I am definitely struggling to understand what the hell I'm looking at. I tried and tried and tried to look for any kind of boost pressure and can't find any readout.
When you say "spudder" do you mean you can hear a leak of some kind, or you can feel it. I can feel mine under acceleration... I did cut my exhaust off with a turn down... And the turbo definitely sounds like it's making boost
When you say "spudder" do you mean you can hear a leak of some kind, or you can feel it. I can feel mine under acceleration... I did cut my exhaust off with a turn down... And the turbo definitely sounds like it's making boost
OuchThatHurt
Member
I did the code check, and the injector buzz check and everything came back good and injectors sound exactly the same
My truck has ... 1 piece of a 2 piece 3" downpipe as exhaust.. so its loud and can hear it whistling at idle or with the lightest of throttle even without making any boost.
I can definitely feel my spudder.. not sure if I can hear it. It's a huge dissapointment and I just go back to normal throttle cause its slow. It feels like it cuts out of fuel but I think my fuel is good.
As for the torque app... give me a sec. I'll backtrack my steps and write it out.
I can definitely feel my spudder.. not sure if I can hear it. It's a huge dissapointment and I just go back to normal throttle cause its slow. It feels like it cuts out of fuel but I think my fuel is good.
As for the torque app... give me a sec. I'll backtrack my steps and write it out.
OuchThatHurt
Member
Pm'd you my number. Probably easier to text
I go to Torque Pro --- definitely buy the App if you're using a free version. It's $5. The $5 includes pretty much all the features and has custom settings loaded into it for Powerstrokes.
Click on Settings (the little gear)
Settings
go into MANAGE EXTRA PIDS/SENSORS
click the 3 little dots and ADD PREDEFINED SET
choose Ford(including Powerstrokes)
Now for boost guage to work I had to edit it.
8 settings down find
[Ford] Boost (Ford Specific)
click on it and choose to edit:
OBD2 MODE AND PID used in this equation
221440
Long name (used in menus)
[Ford]Boost (Ford Specific)
Short name (used in displays)
Boost ---- originally will say MAP
Minimum value (typically 0)
0
Maximum value (max boost PSI)
45.0 ---- can keep at 30 if you like
Scale factor
x1
Unit type
PSI
Equation (eg: A * B + 20 -- more examples) --- THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT SETTING
((A*256)+B)*0.03625-BARO()
OBD HEADER
AUTO
DIAGNOSTIC START COMMAND
(KEEP IT BLANK, DONT ADD ANYTHING -- RRCHLIN)
DIAGNOSTIC STOP COMMAND
(KEEP BLANK, DONT ADD ANYTHING .. NOT THIS TEXT LOL-- RRCHLIN)
OVERRIDES PID:
Does not override any PID
PRESS OK
click on realtime information and go to a blank page.. and hold button, add display.. I choose digital display... search for BOOST OBS here.. add it... and watch boost.
Mine sits at 0.3 or so at idle.. good enough for me since I'm still diagnosing.
Click on Settings (the little gear)
Settings
go into MANAGE EXTRA PIDS/SENSORS
click the 3 little dots and ADD PREDEFINED SET
choose Ford(including Powerstrokes)
Now for boost guage to work I had to edit it.
8 settings down find
[Ford] Boost (Ford Specific)
click on it and choose to edit:
OBD2 MODE AND PID used in this equation
221440
Long name (used in menus)
[Ford]Boost (Ford Specific)
Short name (used in displays)
Boost ---- originally will say MAP
Minimum value (typically 0)
0
Maximum value (max boost PSI)
45.0 ---- can keep at 30 if you like
Scale factor
x1
Unit type
PSI
Equation (eg: A * B + 20 -- more examples) --- THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT SETTING
((A*256)+B)*0.03625-BARO()
OBD HEADER
AUTO
DIAGNOSTIC START COMMAND
(KEEP IT BLANK, DONT ADD ANYTHING -- RRCHLIN)
DIAGNOSTIC STOP COMMAND
(KEEP BLANK, DONT ADD ANYTHING .. NOT THIS TEXT LOL-- RRCHLIN)
OVERRIDES PID:
Does not override any PID
PRESS OK
click on realtime information and go to a blank page.. and hold button, add display.. I choose digital display... search for BOOST OBS here.. add it... and watch boost.
Mine sits at 0.3 or so at idle.. good enough for me since I'm still diagnosing.
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can't edit again for some reason..
Just a warning.. don't change any settings or try not to add anything while you're connected to the truck and running. I was playing with it and it shuts the truck down. Also tried messing with data logging and it shut me down at the red light.
Just a warning.. don't change any settings or try not to add anything while you're connected to the truck and running. I was playing with it and it shuts the truck down. Also tried messing with data logging and it shut me down at the red light.
OuchThatHurt
Member
.... so much better but still does it
So I redid a vlv cover gasket, undercover harness, and pigtail. Then installed the hpx tube. Runs spook much better but I still notice the shake (like somethings out of balance) and it still struggles to pick up rpm mid range....
I guess next is ICP and ipr... if that doesn't fix it it's gonna habe to be o-rings next
So I redid a vlv cover gasket, undercover harness, and pigtail. Then installed the hpx tube. Runs spook much better but I still notice the shake (like somethings out of balance) and it still struggles to pick up rpm mid range....
I guess next is ICP and ipr... if that doesn't fix it it's gonna habe to be o-rings next
ghohouston
Active member
Bet you have a bad injector
OuchThatHurt
Member
Is there any way to tell that without pulling it? I did a buzz test and they sound all the same
OuchThatHurt
Member
Also... What's frustrating is it only lacks power mid range. When it finally gets up in rpm is clears up and pulls strong.
bro just take a deep breath and feed it $300.
Did you get your APP working with the boost guage? I think I typed that up wrong cause I had to re-do mine after I ******d it.
I was only pulling 7-9 psi and getting a sputter. I finished pulling my fenders, exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo today. My whole engine is pretty cruddy so I can't really see any soot that stands out. Pass side up-pipe was totally black but I think just from exhaust being so short.
Did you get your APP working with the boost guage? I think I typed that up wrong cause I had to re-do mine after I ******d it.
I was only pulling 7-9 psi and getting a sputter. I finished pulling my fenders, exhaust manifolds, up-pipes and turbo today. My whole engine is pretty cruddy so I can't really see any soot that stands out. Pass side up-pipe was totally black but I think just from exhaust being so short.
OuchThatHurt
Member
Now that you say it... you did say something about adjusting manifold pressure to accurately read boost. Fml. Totally forgot about that. Just curious... if it was a boost issue, why would it clear up and run strong higher rpm?
the adjusting manifold pressure thing is to get the guage down to 0. it starts out at 14.7-15psi which is earths atmosphere pressure. I would of settled for 15-45 but it flat out wasn't working but did work when I dialed it into 0.
Not sure if that would have anything to do with your problem.. but I ignored guages for so long cause the truck just worked so well and I was lazy. But sure enough aside from bad lift pump I also still have low boost.
I wonder if the butterfly valve has anything to do with yours or mine. I'll have to google about it. I just pulled my turbo and plan to gut it. the 8mm 12pt bolts were pre-rust stripped for me though so I wasn't able to pull that part off yet.
I'm throwing in a terminator 17degree hpop I bought off craigslist in the truck too. My stock hpop readings appear to be normal though. I was able to confirm this by using the torque APP.
What you think is full power and full boost might not be full power/boost either. My truck flicked a switch and had a huge noticeable loss of power to me. but it still drove fine and I could sell to someone and they wouldn't even know what they were missing. It has a hiccup at like 40mph and drops to 1200rpm on the shift and doesn't pull well until about 2k maybe and then it's good enough but won't win any races.
Haven't did a buzz test on mine.. don't know if my problem sounds like an injector issue. I don't have issues with smoking or anything.
Not sure if that would have anything to do with your problem.. but I ignored guages for so long cause the truck just worked so well and I was lazy. But sure enough aside from bad lift pump I also still have low boost.
I wonder if the butterfly valve has anything to do with yours or mine. I'll have to google about it. I just pulled my turbo and plan to gut it. the 8mm 12pt bolts were pre-rust stripped for me though so I wasn't able to pull that part off yet.
I'm throwing in a terminator 17degree hpop I bought off craigslist in the truck too. My stock hpop readings appear to be normal though. I was able to confirm this by using the torque APP.
What you think is full power and full boost might not be full power/boost either. My truck flicked a switch and had a huge noticeable loss of power to me. but it still drove fine and I could sell to someone and they wouldn't even know what they were missing. It has a hiccup at like 40mph and drops to 1200rpm on the shift and doesn't pull well until about 2k maybe and then it's good enough but won't win any races.
Haven't did a buzz test on mine.. don't know if my problem sounds like an injector issue. I don't have issues with smoking or anything.
I may of found my problem. Maybe has something to do with yours too.
I googled about the EBPV and people say just unplug it.. it has a spring and will keep it open. Well mine was half open this morning and I had to force it open by hand and can force it in any position and it will just stay wherever I leave it.
It will definitely close some when its cold. It sounds like a whale. The truck only has 1 piece of a 2 piece downpipe as exhaust so is loud and the extra whoosh from being half open could go unnoticed.
I believe the 3 12pt bolts are 5/16 but I rounded 1 off with an 8mm so am not going to gut it (so I can hopefully get it back together tomorrow)
There's a little lever connected to the rod that I'm going to zip-tie to ensure it stays open. Maybe yours slightly closes for some reason and opens back up when you're really getting on it? IDK. googling EBPV and low boost.. everyone questions the EBPV and mentions 10psi max.. haven't seen any threads where a guy says he got back 18psi from gutting it or zip-tying the lever.
Maybe post a video up of what your truck is doing. I feel like our problems are similar just explained differently.
Here's a couple pics. I didn't get a good shot of the lever.. i was just going to zip-tie it. didn't think anything of the butterfly spring operation at the time.
edit: don't know about this having anything to do with my truck sputtering though.
I googled about the EBPV and people say just unplug it.. it has a spring and will keep it open. Well mine was half open this morning and I had to force it open by hand and can force it in any position and it will just stay wherever I leave it.
It will definitely close some when its cold. It sounds like a whale. The truck only has 1 piece of a 2 piece downpipe as exhaust so is loud and the extra whoosh from being half open could go unnoticed.
I believe the 3 12pt bolts are 5/16 but I rounded 1 off with an 8mm so am not going to gut it (so I can hopefully get it back together tomorrow)
There's a little lever connected to the rod that I'm going to zip-tie to ensure it stays open. Maybe yours slightly closes for some reason and opens back up when you're really getting on it? IDK. googling EBPV and low boost.. everyone questions the EBPV and mentions 10psi max.. haven't seen any threads where a guy says he got back 18psi from gutting it or zip-tying the lever.
Maybe post a video up of what your truck is doing. I feel like our problems are similar just explained differently.
Here's a couple pics. I didn't get a good shot of the lever.. i was just going to zip-tie it. didn't think anything of the butterfly spring operation at the time.
edit: don't know about this having anything to do with my truck sputtering though.
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OuchThatHurt
Member
I do hear a woosh about 4-5 ish seconds after starting the truck. I read that it was supposed to do with warm-up. I'll pull my dp back a bit and take a look. I've been eyeballing the idea of pushing the role pins put/or drilling them out and just removing only the plate itself. It's getting into the 40's here so I'm gonna start plugging it in anyways.
I'm gonna check the vlv cover connection on the back drivers side. While poking around yesterday, it looked like it had a zip tie? Around it. I know the previous owner had new motocraft gp installed before I bought it. Maybe that connection is an idmssue
I'm gonna check the vlv cover connection on the back drivers side. While poking around yesterday, it looked like it had a zip tie? Around it. I know the previous owner had new motocraft gp installed before I bought it. Maybe that connection is an idmssue
OuchThatHurt
Member
Alright. Looks like that's next on my list. Haven't got around to setting up the torque for boost readout yet
well I ran my truck last night. I can now hit 15psi boost and my sputter is gone as well as my weird shift at about 40-50mph.
15 psi still isn't right but huge difference from 7-9 psi and fixed my sputter.
Going to check my manifolds for leaks and up-pipes and go over my fuel system a little bit again. I have a feeling my Y pipes may not be sealed good too.
My exhaust definitely has a deeper bass sound. I was thinking this is exhaust leak but its been months and months since I lost power so not sure if thats how it used to sound or not.
edit: I replaced exhaust manifolds and up-pipes. I didn't see any noticeable leaks but the pass side up-pipe was completely black but this could of been from my short short exhaust pipe. When I get a chance maybe tomorrow I'll close the butterfly valve half-way and see how much boost I can lose.
15 psi still isn't right but huge difference from 7-9 psi and fixed my sputter.
Going to check my manifolds for leaks and up-pipes and go over my fuel system a little bit again. I have a feeling my Y pipes may not be sealed good too.
My exhaust definitely has a deeper bass sound. I was thinking this is exhaust leak but its been months and months since I lost power so not sure if thats how it used to sound or not.
edit: I replaced exhaust manifolds and up-pipes. I didn't see any noticeable leaks but the pass side up-pipe was completely black but this could of been from my short short exhaust pipe. When I get a chance maybe tomorrow I'll close the butterfly valve half-way and see how much boost I can lose.
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