96 f250 runs like crap

[OuchThatHurt]

Did a couple pulls this evening and checked exhaust vlv. Spring is strong and the vlv stays open.
Now... for the funky stuff. I got 14psi max on about 10 pulls and every time time the truck shifted gears it would drop to 7psi...
Also my ipr% only got to 39%max for all those pulls

 

[mandkole]

There should be a square profile black oring between the turbo and y pipe. Have you checked that it's there under the v band clamp? Stock 15deg pump on stock tunes should give ~2500 psi at wot .

 

[OuchThatHurt]

Between the turbo and up-pipes?

 

[rrchlin]

The turbo to collector (then runs to up-pipes) have a square gasket.

The turbo to Y pipes for me is a round O-ring reddish orange under the V-band clamp (viton?)

 

[OuchThatHurt]

Alright. Gonna have to start tearing stuff apart. Truck has 300k and I'm 99% positive none of this has been taken apart before

 

[rrchlin]

what's your HPOP oil psi at the WOT if you remember?

I get to about 2800 psi HPOP/40% ipr duty. That I read is good and normal. Dudemanscott in another thread posted a chart with similar numbers.

And do you still have a sputter? My new up-pipes/manifolds cleared my sputter and doubled my boost but its still only 15psi max.

 

[OuchThatHurt]

Torque screenshot

2600ish at 39%

 

[OuchThatHurt]

The sputter comes and goes. I did fund my driver side rear vlv cover harness plug has 1 pigtail that looks a little wonky. Probably replace everything on that side now.... Still shakes pretty hard while in park. Took my boss for a ride who has 16 years as a marine diesel engineer and only really had 2 things to say. "Boost seems low, drops off and this thing shakes too much while in park. Change some senosors "

 

[rrchlin]

That seems good to me.

Does anyone know if your numbers would get skewed with a bad injector or not?

There's a few threads around on checking for Y-pipe leaks by using a PVC cap with a schrader valve tapped in and fitting the cap to the air filter's intake boot and pressurizing to about 20 PSI and spraying soapy water around the Y-pipe boots. I need to do this myself.

My truck is so dirty I did not notice any soot when looking at the exhaust manifolds and up-pipes. My drivers side pipe was nice metal finish, no leaks but my drivers side was totally black to the point that I didn't notice. I could of contributed the blackness to the down-pipe being dumped right near it.. but I wouldn't of noticed if it was leaking or not like that.

 

[OuchThatHurt]

I'll give mine a good look over and clean them up. I don't think a exhaust leak at idle in park would cause surging or hunting or whatever is going on. My rpms fluctuate around 75rpm . My InjPW on my torque gauge also fluctuates a 100 units. Does the IPR control that? Should I just replace that? Again I'm family positive it has never been replaced

 

[superpsd]

What is IPR duty Cycle and ICP doing while idling rough? If you have not I would unplug ICP to see if a difference is made. You may try and run a CCT test. The bouncing idle may be IPR as they can cause all sorts of issues. Is the hunting idle when cold or hot or all the time?

 

[rrchlin]

Maybe try unplugging MAP sensor seprately as well. I unplugged ICP and Map sensor and neither made a noticeable change, though they both gave me hard hard shifting.

I changed my clogged Autozone fuel filter (pics of my fuel bowl in earlier posts) with a Motorcraft and went from 15psi boost to 19psi boost. As I drove it more I was only able to hit 17psi

I was reading about people getting 28psi with intake/exhaust/chip and then others claiming 17-20 stock. Are these numbers about right?

I have intake/exhaust and a TS6 chip. fpr is probably still dirty and only get 55psi fuel pressure and gonna do BB mod soon. But I'm only thinking of gaining a couple PSI with that.

 

[superpsd]

55 psi is normal fuel pressure on the stock setup. Boost pressure will vary a lot you should see over 20 easy with a tune. Check the up pipes for leaks and O ring on the intake Y and boots.