another compound /build thread.

[littleredstroker]

thatswhat I have read, that guys fill all but the top 2" and still DD/tow.

I just am thinking that NOT blocking off the oil cooler would be kinda important.

 

[m j]

that's what I was thinking. is the block fill something that can be done myself? I cant imagine it being too hard

have you worked with concrete? do you have a vibrator for concrete?

 

[littleredstroker]

have you worked with concrete? do you have a vibrator for concrete?

ive worked with other concrete/ mortars, just never this

 

[DocBar]

ive worked with other concrete/ mortars, just never this

Get a performance shop to do the partial fill. It's a very involved process and takes several weeks to do properly.

Swamps competition engine

To prevent the engine block from fracturing at the main registers, & prior to machine work, the cylinder block will be cleaned and filled with HardBlok. During the block-fill curing process, we will install BHJ deckplate(s) and main caps & girdle to pre-stress the engine block in a simulated 'assembled' condition. This step simulates an 'assembled' condition, so that the block cylinder bores & mains are held by the block filler once cured. This 1-2 week process ensures that all machine work done to the block will not change nor distort dimensionally after machine work and assembly. A 2" void in the top of the block (the hottest area where combustion occurs) will be left unfilled to allow for adequate coolant circulation through the block. We have dozens of filled blocks being daily driven as street trucks, and have seen no compromise to the engine, even when used for towing applications.

While we do use a sealant to seal the HardBlok from contaminating the cooling system, we do recommend a coolant filter.

 

[littleredstroker]

So a Little update. With work slowing down I dont want to spend a bunch of $ on motor parts. I have decided to just use the turbo i have now (which is responsive but comes nowhere near close to cleaning up) and the 468 I also have For the compounds. I know it wont be Big numbers... But in the last year or so ive had a change in what I am looking for.

Im not sure what to expect Hp wise, but a super clean, fast lighting 550-575 HP is what im looking for.

Im about 15 years to late to the High HP 7.3 party

 

[emev0l]

So a Little update. With work slowing down I dont want to spend a bunch of $ on motor parts. I have decided to just use the turbo i have now (which is responsive but comes nowhere near close to cleaning up) and the 468 I also have For the compounds. I know it wont be Big numbers... But in the last year or so ive had a change in what I am looking for.

Im not sure what to expect Hp wise, but a super clean, fast lighting 550-575 HP is what im looking for.

Im about 15 years to late to the High HP 7.3 party

Which small turbo are you running now?

You still running 250/100's?

 

[littleredstroker]

The TN drop in. I believe it's like. 61mm . After some talk with Matt, I will probably end up getting a bigger atmosphere so I don't have to worry about gating. Maybe a 76?

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[littleredstroker]

Which small turbo are you running now?

You still running 250/100's?

Still running 250/100s

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[Powerstroker7.3]

With just 250/100 you might as well just put the s468 on as a single. I have a buddy that has that setup and it is a pretty responsive setup


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[emev0l]

I run an s468 with a 1.10 housing with some 238/200's and it lights pretty quick, with the 100% nozzles you could drop down to a .90 or 1.0 housing and it would be very responsive and still do pretty good up top.

You could do a s361/62/63/64 and s475 compound setup but unless your building all of the mounts and piping yourself it's going to get pretty expensive and I don't think it's going to be much different then a single s468.

I really only see compounds being worth it if your doing something like an s366 and an s480 or s483 where your out flowing an s468.

That s468 can make a ton of power and has no problem towing.

But if you wanna try compounds just to try them, well by all means do it, but I would try to build the setup so you can fit slightly larger turbos in case you want to go a little bigger down the road. That way it's a simply turbo swap and your done.

 

[littleredstroker]

I run an s468 with a 1.10 housing with some 238/200's and it lights pretty quick, with the 100% nozzles you could drop down to a .90 or 1.0 housing and it would be very responsive and still do pretty good up top.

You could do a s361/62/63/64 and s475 compound setup but unless your building all of the mounts and piping yourself it's going to get pretty expensive and I don't think it's going to be much different then a single s468.

I really only see compounds being worth it if your doing something like an s366 and an s480 or s483 where your out flowing an s468.

That s468 can make a ton of power and has no problem towing.

But if you wanna try compounds just to try them, well by all means do it, but I would try to build the setup so you can fit slightly larger turbos in case you want to go a little bigger down the road. That way it's a simply turbo swap and your done.

and thats pretty much what I am thinkng. Do this for now. have it ready for if I ever want to do more.

I dont see how it could be worse than it is now.

I am trying a bit different approach than the kits i have seen and the way ive seen other people do it as far as location.

And by "I" I mean a buddy of mine who has a ton of experience with building compounds.