Another cracked piston

B585Ford

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You could. But removing the turbos then reinstalling them would definitely not be ideal.

You have had to deal with removing everything a lot, is there any way to confirm without swapping the pump?
 

Dzchey21

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if you block the turbo oil supply you can run it like that for a little bit with no turbos on
 

blk350on20s

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if you block the turbo oil supply you can run it like that for a little bit with no turbos on

Kyle suggested that to me a while back. Such a huge help. I just bought a new oil supply tube and cut up the old one and welded it shut.
 

Rmartin-97

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My thing is this didn't start until I changed the heads witch makes me think it's somthing in that area. My new game plan is I'm gonna pull the valve covers agin and put dye in the fuel and use an ids to up the fuel pressure. I'm wondering if maybe I've cut an injector oring puttin them in or somthin. If I still find no leaks like that. The only thing else I can think of is pull the turbos and look for the pump leaking or injectors cups leaking.
 

Dzchey21

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i dont think i have ever seen cups leak on a 6.4 yet. not saying it isnt possible


Pretty hard to cut an injector o ring but again its possible.
 

Rmartin-97

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i dont think i have ever seen cups leak on a 6.4 yet. not saying it isnt possible


Pretty hard to cut an injector o ring but again its possible.

So you think it about has to be the pump leaking? It's just weird this problem wasn't here until I put new heads on. What if I didn't have my injectors torqued enough could they leak from that?
 

Dzchey21

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i suppose like a 6.0 if they arent torqued right you could have the injector lift and eventually take out the o ring but i think you would have fuel in the cylinder more than fuel in the oil.

Did you have any issues with the return fuel system when you put it back together? Anything get plugged or something? I have seen too much pressure on the return side push the seal out of the pump, but that will fill the crankcase in about 10 minutes of idling
 

Rmartin-97

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i suppose like a 6.0 if they arent torqued right you could have the injector lift and eventually take out the o ring but i think you would have fuel in the cylinder more than fuel in the oil.

Did you have any issues with the return fuel system when you put it back together? Anything get plugged or something? I have seen too much pressure on the return side push the seal out of the pump, but that will fill the crankcase in about 10 minutes of idling

The return side all looked good. But I'll double check. It takes about 150 miles and it raises 3/8 in on the dipstick.
 

6.4 Stroker

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when I under torqued an injector, my biggest problem was combustion would enter the return side of my fuel system and kill the engine.
Does the truck start and hold rail pressure good ect?
 

08BIGRIG

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how new is your pump? Sorry I didn't read though everything. The reason I ask is because the last two pumps that I got from Ford both leaked from the front seal when it gets cold outside. They leaked pretty badly and still held rail pressure at 25k.
 

Rmartin-97

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how new is your pump? Sorry I didn't read though everything. The reason I ask is because the last two pumps that I got from Ford both leaked from the front seal when it gets cold outside. They leaked pretty badly and still held rail pressure at 25k.

The original with 60k miles on it.
 

08BIGRIG

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I seen that you pulled the valve covers and ran the truck. Did you rev the truck up at all and also put a load on the truck when the covers were off. (put truck in drive and press on the brake to get a little load) Did you look at all of your injectors with IDS?
 

Rmartin-97

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I seen that you pulled the valve covers and ran the truck. Did you rev the truck up at all and also put a load on the truck when the covers were off. (put truck in drive and press on the brake to get a little load) Did you look at all of your injectors with IDS?

Injectors were all good by the ids. Never revved it or anything though. Gonna put ids on it to up rp to look for leaks this weekend.
 

powerstroked08

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Since you have mcc just make a tune with the rail pressure bumped up to 12- 15k at idle. That will save you the trip to the dealer and the expense.
 

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