Another T4 thread

hucorey

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Yup, the crazy part is that just when you think your done, something else comes up, or another part to buy/upgrade etc. I'm sure the money we've spent is quite a bit more than most folks understand. LOL. When I think about what I've spent as Tycorr mentioned I could've bought a new truck and with 2k or so, it would easily push 600hp. LOL..:fustrate: I just can't seem to quit though.
I'll have way less into this than any new truck. But that's without all my labor. And alot more HP.

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TyCorr

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Yes way way higher especially @40 its more than 1:2

My 38 psi of boost comes with a 50 psi of back pressure differential. Not 1:2 or 1:2.5 as claimed. That test and tune thread bill @php did in 2012 corroborates what im saying. That truck did 547 with mailed tunes. Then 563 with live tuning. THe whole 38rbillet wheel swap and a tad more pw and it made 603 with a 1.0 a/r wg housing. The 1.15 housing had no positive effects on egt, boost, spoolup, or backpressure. In fact the opposite. SInce bill tuned my old setup and i used the exact same parts and my experience and findings are the same im not surprised.

I understand why this thread exists. Either theres some godawful tuners out there or people arent installing drop ins correctly and setting them up.

Id have showed myself out already but if Im a new user and read this thread im under the impression my motor will melt frim egts, chuck a rod from 145psi of backpressure or ill smoke out the sun if i dont use an sxe charger with anything but 90cc a codes on an obs.

Theres a ten year old video of martin marquess' 38r &238/80 combo in a daily driven setting that obliterates the sentiment of this thread. And Garrett retooled them since then and they were improved.

Maybe sell the idea of these but not at the expense of the 38r. Because there are daily driven trucks with much larger fuel setups than the cutesy shti in this thread that dont have bp, egt, or power issues.

And if you ran some 80 or 100 over nozzled shti sticks and had smoke problems you wither cant drive, cant bolt parts on your truck, or a combination. Ive seen a few injector builders names in this thread that would need a 400cc hybrid to ovefuel a 38r LOL

My old set of 250/200s were by a popular builder and they were no better than properly functioning 238/80s. Now im running 250/200s uninhibited and they are actually given the advertised fuel as well as being "fast". If im not smoking out the midwest and melting pistons then you guys are smoking something!
 

TyCorr

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Like I said, its blurry and shaky to me. I even went and wet my contacts, watched it, went "wtf is that" and then took my 'tacts out LOL

If i wasnt showered and fresh home from the gym on leg day Id go make a 50-100 video and even with my sorry assed 38r it'd never hit 1200 degrees. Then maybe everyine can shut up LOL

Edit: im not mad or butthurt or whatever the current vernacular is but yes im laughing at some of the trucks that are gaving egts issues with nozzles 100 and under....sorry, thats downright hilarious for me.
 
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TyCorr

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Im also gonna say the guy posting videos has high af gears. Truck runs ok but all im seeing is an overgeared truck.
 

mikeeg02

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Stock 3.73s, and 235/85-16s. (31" tires) 1,100 on the Pyro. Sorry my video skills suck. Phone video is all I got. And to see the dual gauge and Pyro isn't easy.

Video with egts was in OD

I don't hate the 38R, and like you said, maybe if I pissed with the gate I'd of been happier. But this turbo outperforms it in every aspect that I've tested it. No tuning changes required. No other changes performed.
 

TyCorr

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Right on....im not knocking anyone either. But a few ohonecalls to get the 38r working right versus 3 grand to get what that accomplishes.

I guess after ten years and all that mileage you get a bit offended when someone says what you do doesnt work. Especially when it was pretty well documented in the latter part of the 2000 decade.

I dont think you can actually "tune" for a turbo. Unless you pull pw to keep from snuffing a charger. Or throwing pw and icp out to find the boil on a larger upgraded one.

Do you not find it at least odd that there are several trucks on this forum running way more fuel through 38r turbis without the issues? Hell there are five trucks running the setup ive got. All similar results.
 

TyCorr

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Stock 3.73s, and 235/85-16s. (31" tires) 1,100 on the Pyro. Sorry my video skills suck. Phone video is all I got. And to see the dual gauge and Pyro isn't easy.

Video with egts was in OD

I don't hate the 38R, and like you said, maybe if I pissed with the gate I'd of been happier. But this turbo outperforms it in every aspect that I've tested it. No tuning changes required. No other changes performed.

Quoted to clarify.....i have those gears and 35s...so it seemed like you had a 4.10 or so but 3.73s snd a 31" tire will lend that effect as well. Seems like there is a lot of gear there.
 

mikeeg02

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I can only imagine the difference is the gates setup properly. And the reason I got the 38R originally on this build was because it was through proven setup from back in the day for 500+ hp. And I was happy with it on my old auto and 175/146s. When I'd asked my vendor I bought my injectors from, he'd said I'd be disappointed with my injectors and the 38R. And then I was. So I looked for the next step. Compounds or the t4 route and a different charger. Fortunately I found someone doing a e99 to late swap and sold all my existing parts as a kit to recover 90% of my money. Otherwise I'd still have my 38R. A and probably be looking at an atmosphere charger.
 

mikeeg02

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Quoted to clarify.....i have those gears and 35s...so it seemed like you had a 4.10 or so but 3.73s snd a 31" tire will lend that effect as well. Seems like there is a lot of gear there.

I'd love to run larger, to get my ratio down,, but I'd need rear spacers (dually) and I like narrow ones in the rear to help in snow in winter. Two fatties in the rear don't do so good for snow traction.
 

TyCorr

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I'd love to run larger, to get my ratio down,, but I'd need rear spacers (dually) and I like narrow ones in the rear to help in snow in winter. Two fatties in the rear don't do so good for snow traction.

Yep. EVeryone always said "you can't tow as much with a srw". I got a dually and a few times was like this is nice. But never bought another one lol. I dont miss it. My 00 was the truck after my one dually. Then 9 srw trucks after that.

Im just dumbfounded that my 200% are clean 90% of the time with this horrible charger and guys with 80% are too fueled for a 66mm charger.
 
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mikeeg02

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Mines not a DD. And I use it to tow heavy. I love it in a bumper pull config compared to a SRW truck. But wiith a gooseneck trailer a SRW tows it like a dually with a bumper pull. At least IMO.

The other reason is I love the width of a dually flatbed. I haven't built one for this truck yet. It will be aluminum. But my old dodge I built one. 8'x8' of real estate. I love that!
 

Countrycar

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Prior to the full build I have now, I was on the stock block with 238/80 & a 38R w just the basic upgrades to support to them. I had these injectors and Turbo for about 15 yrs IIRC. I Put over 200K on them both before going to the setup I have now. The Turbo is the still the same one that I currently have on my truck now even after the new build. I towed with it before and towed heavy as well. I towed a load one time in Excess of 19K. This load was also on a Pintle hook and again this was yrs ago with 238/80 and the 38r. I had towed many times with this setup as well. The only thing I had to due was the occasional down shift to control the egt's, and that was only when climbing a pretty steep grade and I never towed in OD. It worked for me back then and up until I went to this current build I have now. Sure I've changed a few things in the current build from when it was stock, but most are just hard parts that will not make a difference in how the truck is gonna perform towing a load. So my truck should still tow a load the same as it did before right? I mean I went from 238/80 to 300/200 injectors w PP heads, the bts twins, mahles, crowers, etc would not affect my 38r performance at all correct. So why is it now that I cant' even drive the truck empty up a grade with out down shifting to control egts. I used to do it before. The only part that in my understanding has changed how my Turbo is functioning right now is the Stage1 cam that I installed. I'm not the only one to do this cam either. From what I understand it doesn't have the drive pressure down low to push my 38r, so in fact it's suffering to do what I used to ask of it. So my only option at this point is to go to another Turbo that can come on stronger down low than my 38r did, and really maximize my build as well. Sure in a perfect world compounds would be ideal here, but at this point I'm just trying to find a good Single/Turbo that would make my truck a joy to drive again, and not have the issue's I'm currently having. I didn't come on here to bash the 38r, in fact it worked great before this setup. Now it won't/doesn't no matter the tuning, live or other wise. Maybe if I had the Tuning Software and the experience that some of you here have, I could eventually get it there. So for now, I come on here to get real world experience from some of you guys and share mine as well in the hopes that I can nail down my issues and enjoy my ride like I used to. I'll go to a T4 if I have to, I'm just hoping that the Turbo KC turbos is working on will be the one to get my truck back to what it used to be and save some money in the process.
 
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mikeeg02

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Id bet if you put the factory 38R wheel on you'd like it better as a turbo.

Your not the only person I've read about who share your results with aftermarket wheel
 

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