Anyone wanna take bets?

[Zmann]

this is Why I wouldn't sweat a below 14 volt output
except disregard the quickly rise portion since the Glow Plugs may be on that doesn't always happen

ALTERNATOR CHARGING VOLTAGE

Most alternators that are charging properly should produce a voltage of about 13.8 to 14.2 volts at idle with the lights and accessories off. Always refer to the vehicle manufacturer's specifications. Many Asian vehicles, for example, have higher charging voltages of around 15 volts.

When the engine is first started, the charging voltage should rise quickly to about two volts above base battery voltage, then taper off, leveling out at the specified voltage.

The exact charging voltage will vary according to the battery's state of charge, the load on the vehicle's electrical system, and temperature. The lower the temperature the higher the charging voltage, and the higher the temperature the lower the charging voltage. The "normal" charging voltage on a typical application might be 13.9 to 15.1 volts at 77 degrees F. But at 20 degrees F. below zero, the charging voltage might be 14.9 to 15.8 volts. On a hot engine on a hot day, the normal charging voltage might drop to 13.5 to 14.3 volts.

 

[TurboM700]

Chris was seeing 12.5-12.7 cruising down the road at 2000rpm. Somethings wrong and I highly doubt there is a 100amp draw on the system bring battery voltage that low.

The only other thing it could be is an Alt.

Let rephrase my statment then you want to see 14-14.7 out of your truck when warmed up and running.

My 01 after the GP turn of never comes off 14.7. AC on or off blower on high or not alawys stays at 14.7.

Plenty of the trucks I have worked on over the yrs were the same way.

Heck gas chevys on cold start up I have seen over 15 and they say this is "normal"

Mike

 

[Zmann]

Agree with Chris having an issue at those voltages

Disagree with your expected voltages on these trucks

I can't imagine how many alternators would be changed ( to no avail) if everyone expected the voltages your suggesting as normal ?

Here is from Alternator parts . com and they want to sell u an ALT

There is a simple way to check the alternator. All you need is an inexpensive voltmeter and some knowledge of how the charging system works on your vehicle.

The first thing to do read the voltage across the battery terminals with the motor shut off . It should read about 12.6 volts. If it is lower than 12.2, you must charge the battery.

Start the engine and check the voltage at the battery. On high idle, around 800 to 1100 RPM�s it should build up to 13.5 to 15 volts with everything shut off.

If the voltage builds up then you should turn on the lights and A/C-heater fan on high. These are a couple of the biggest electrical loads on a vehicle. Now again raise the engine speed to a above idle and check the voltage. If the alternator is working properly, it should maintain voltage around or above 13 volts with everything turned on.

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

Snapped the intermediate shaft clean off... TC is just fine. Going to try a billet intermediate shaft... And a higher stall TC...

 

[WoodBoy]

WTH? Yall aint found the electrical problem?

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

Nope.....

 

[TurboM700]

Chris glad to hear its fixed

Zmann not to sound rude as I'm curious more then anything but what if any kind of education do you have in the auto industries.

I have been wrong before and I cant say I have check voltage on these trucks but I can say that I have worked on 1000's of vehicle over the yrs and I can say that most of them are all around 14.5-14.7.

 

[tbsimmons]

Chris glad to hear its fixed

Zmann not to sound rude as I'm curious more then anything but what if any kind of education do you have in the auto industries.

I have been wrong before and I cant say I have check voltage on these trucks but I can say that I have worked on 1000's of vehicle over the yrs and I can say that most of them are all around 14.5-14.7.

Why does education have anything to do with it. Can't it be just experience. I grew up in a mechanic shop and I have never seen an alt charge above 14 all the time minus a few circumstances and one of them the regulator being bad the other is when all the acc are running. Alt charging is based of resistance or load and that only. If the battery is low obviously we have a bigger potential difference along with more resistance so more volts to get the amps out of the alt. less load less volts. If I went off your theory my impala alt would have been changed out because with a full battery and no load it is only in the 13.5 range no matter the Rpm. Put a load on it and raise the rpm yes above 14.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

 

[kyle43335]

Snapped the intermediate shaft clean off... TC is just fine. Going to try a billet intermediate shaft... And a higher stall TC...

which trans did this? the trans currently in the truck? or one of the transmissions that have already been removed from the truck?

 

[Corb@CorbinShipping]

which trans did this? the trans currently in the truck? or one of the transmissions that have already been removed from the truck?

The stage 2+ that died in New Mexico.

 

[Zmann]

Why does education have anything to do with it. Can't it be just experience. I grew up in a mechanic shop and I have never seen an alt charge above 14 all the time minus a few circumstances and one of them the regulator being bad the other is when all the acc are running. Alt charging is based of resistance or load and that only. If the battery is low obviously we have a bigger potential difference along with more resistance so more volts to get the amps out of the alt. less load less volts. If I went off your theory my impala alt would have been changed out because with a full battery and no load it is only in the 13.5 range no matter the Rpm. Put a load on it and raise the rpm yes above 14.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

Thanks for that and I agree completely
I don't feel like listing my Mechanical background but it's not limited by any means..

I am done arguing that an alt not putting out over 14.5 or whatever was mentioned is Bad but good luck getting an Alternator replaced under warranty with that criteria

Sorry Ccorbin I wasn't looking for a Derail

 

[tensixniner]

If we took a poll I bet very few would see voltages that High and most of us have that as a PID we monitor

even those of us with High amp High idle output aftermarket alternators don't see voltages that high as a normal output

and unless it's a dual alt truck the PCM has no interaction with the alt and even then it doesn't dictate the output

Why does education have anything to do with it. Can't it be just experience. I grew up in a mechanic shop and I have never seen an alt charge above 14 all the time minus a few circumstances and one of them the regulator being bad the other is when all the acc are running. Alt charging is based of resistance or load and that only. If the battery is low obviously we have a bigger potential difference along with more resistance so more volts to get the amps out of the alt. less load less volts. If I went off your theory my impala alt would have been changed out because with a full battery and no load it is only in the 13.5 range no matter the Rpm. Put a load on it and raise the rpm yes above 14.


Sent from the bat phone near a drilling rig.

I think it's an interesting and relavent derail.

There's no need for anyone to come up with a "theory" on how the alternator works or its operating parameters. It's all in the shop manual.
Alternator is controlled by the PCM. It's output may vary.

.

 

[Zmann]

they changed the charging system on the 6.4 and it now uses the PCM ?

or is it only on the duals to pick what alt is active for the GP load like the previous years ?

they appear to Be the same alternator at a glance on Alt parts . com http://alternatorparts.com/ford-powerstroke-3g-6g-series-alternator.html for what thats worth ?

as the 6.o and usually a PCM controlled alt is completely different internally ?
so it can take a PCM signal from my experience

but if so that could be an avenue to explore for this issue I don't have the 6.4 schematics

 

[MINK]

Snapped the intermediate shaft clean off... TC is just fine. Going to try a billet intermediate shaft... And a higher stall TC...

I was gonna say good to hear....but that still sucks lol

 

[Zmann]

TenSixNiner

so it looks like the dual vs is PCM controlled more than the 6.o was
I can't find squat for the singe .. not sure what Ccorbin has ?

DC Power Engineering’s HP Series High Output Alternator use brand new proprietary OEM advanced multifunction digital regulators from Denso. These regulators are held up to the strictest standards in the OEM industry and will completely integrate with your vehicle’s PCM through either direct plug-in or using our supplied adapter harness when necessary. DC Power’s HP Series regulators retain all PCM vehicle specific functions such as but not limited to internal temperature compensation, lamp terminal monitoring, load response control, and alternator load factor.

thanks for the input

 

[FallenAuthority]

I think it's an interesting and relavent derail.

There's no need for anyone to come up with a "theory" on how the alternator works or its operating parameters. It's all in the shop manual.
Alternator is controlled by the PCM. It's output may vary.

.

Edit: you are correct. The PCM has a genmon and gencom circuit. The PCM has total control over the alternators output

 

[Zmann]

for both the single and duals ?

the duals looks apparent but I can't find anything about that if it's a single ?

thx very interesting

 

[FallenAuthority]

for both the single and duals ?

the duals looks apparent but I can't find anything about that if it's a single ?

thx very interesting

Yes, look at the wiring diagrams for single alt. Clearly marked GENCOM and GENMON circuits to PCM for both single alts and duals.

 

[FallenAuthority]

 

[lincolnlocker]

Nope.....

i think i know what the problem is now...

























its between the steering wheel and the seat!!oke: