ARPs cracking blocks?

Craig@MFI · Jul 17, 2012

I would have to say if the block cracked he must have done something wrong as in bottom the studs down or oil and coolant in hole for it to happen

IDP · Jul 17, 2012

I've heard of the A1s pullin threads out of the block on 7.3s with hot retorques. IMO Arp probaly puts more R&D into there products than A1 does, Arp makes fasteners for everything. I've only used Arps and never had a issue.

a_moore · Jul 17, 2012

I have to wonder if it is caused by people bottoming out the stud in the threaded hole. Then as stud heats up (grows in length) it causes the breakage. There should be some relief there for thermal expansion, and this would be hard to ensure when installing in a truck.

This is the reason you have a "pull-back" on all socket weld high pressure fittings. If the pipe is bottomed out in the socket and you weld it in, when the pipe expands lengthwise between the weld and the bottom of the socket the pressure becomes so great that it splits a three-pass fillet weld. Does not matter how good the welder was, or filler material either.

Being that I have not done this, I am only speculating.

AllanB · Jul 17, 2012

a_moore said:
I have to wonder if it is caused by people bottoming out the stud in the threaded hole. Then as stud heats up (grows in length) it causes the breakage. There should be some relief there for thermal expansion, and this would be hard to ensure when installing in a truck.

This is the reason you have a "pull-back" on all socket weld high pressure fittings. If the pipe is bottomed out in the socket and you weld it in, when the pipe expands lengthwise between the weld and the bottom of the socket the pressure becomes so great that it splits a three-pass fillet weld. Does not matter how good the welder was, or filler material either.

Being that I have not done this, I am only speculating.

Just a question. If they got hot enough to elongate, I would think this would have to be while the engine is under load. Wouldn't that lift the heads?

94.5 Stroker · Jul 17, 2012

Ok, so the way he put it is that the stud is bottoming out and getting cocked off to the side before final torquing. Then when you final torque them it cracks the block.

BFT · Jul 17, 2012

IDP said:
I've heard of the A1s pullin threads out of the block on 7.3s with hot retorques. IMO Arp probaly puts more R&D into there products than A1 does, Arp makes fasteners for everything. I've only used Arps and never had a issue.

So does A1

94.5 Stroker · Jul 17, 2012

I am gonna go with the A1s just because I don't want something to happen and him not stand behind it, not that I think he would do that. Just a comfort thing for me I guess.

Nic · Jul 18, 2012

94.5 Stroker said:
I am gonna go with the A1s just because I don't want something to happen and him not stand behind it, not that I think he would do that. Just a comfort thing for me I guess.

so if youre going with A1, then you think theres a problem with the ARP studs themselves...there are THOUSANDS of studded trucks with ARPs and not having this issue..sounds like to me the its the person installing them and their proceedure...NOT the studs

94.5 Stroker · Jul 18, 2012

Nic said:
so if youre going with A1, then you think theres a problem with the ARP studs themselves...there are THOUSANDS of studded trucks with ARPs and not having this issue..sounds like to me the its the person installing them and their proceedure...NOT the studs

No I don't think there is a problem with them, I am just changing my choice on studs. The one he told me about were different shops. Just my choice.

BFT · Jul 18, 2012

IMO (like mentioned before) it is probably installer error. Like Craig and Dustin said, 1 probably didn't clean out stud holes out, and 2 the torque ratio on the studs are higher then the a1. Not saying that the higher torque value did it, but maybe they just happen to tighten the stud itself too much, when all it needs is finger tightened pretty much.
ARP is a good product, I wouldn't judge your opinion on that from that 1 person. It's like not wanting a 6.4 because you heard of a few with cracked pistons. I understand your concern but it's ultimately your choice, and if it makes you sleep good at night and turn that key every day then you made the right choice.

And for future reference... Let's not make this another ARP vs A1 debate:grouphug: <---circle jerk

Dzchey21 · Jul 18, 2012

I actually understand your disposition on this.. If you are having a shop do it and they won't back the work with arps either switcH shops or switch studs so theY will back thier work up. Totally understand.that is very important labor costs are expensive and its a labor intensive job

Craig@MFI · Jul 18, 2012

94.5 Stroker said:
I am gonna go with the A1s just because I don't want something to happen and him not stand behind it, not that I think he would do that. Just a comfort thing for me I guess.

just make sure they torque them to around arp specs so it doesnt puke

PowerStrokeEnginuities · Jul 18, 2012

Craig@MPD said:
I would have to say if the block cracked he must have done something wrong as in bottom the studs down or oil and coolant in hole for it to happen

This is a very important step, to make sure it's clean and free of any fluid or obstruction. Stock bolts will crack a block if coolant or oil is not blow out. Good point Craig.

Zmann · Jul 18, 2012

There was another thread like this a while ago and no one could find Squat on the issue
so it was deemed BS and may have been a Rumor started By the same shop as this one ?,,

to the OP I see why He kinda has you in a bind to swap brands ,, that is a shame IMHO

94.5 Stroker · Jul 18, 2012

He told me i could use the arps but would be more comfortable with the a1s. And know he didnt start this before this one, I don't know where the previous one came from.

jdgleason · Jul 18, 2012

Craig@MPD said:
just make sure they torque them to around arp specs so it doesnt puke

We haven't had one come out of the shop puke using A1's torque specs. I wouldn't recommend using a different torque spec than the manufacturer suggests.

Craig@MFI · Jul 18, 2012

I recall dustins truck puking and blowing headgaskets at the (factory specs)

jdgleason · Jul 18, 2012

So do I. I also recall seeing clausens win the dpc with the same studs at A1 torque specs. Dillehay, shone, Aaron, Mal all have the 1722s torqued to A1 specs and didn't have an issue.

I have a 6.0 at the shop with ARP's right now with both gaskets blown to hell. There are exceptions to every rule, however there is nothing wrong with A1's torque spec. Installer error isn't entirely out of the question with any stud.

Dzchey21 · Jul 18, 2012

Mine lives a long time on nitrous and everything else but as soon as the boost was past 65 psi it puked. I torqued them to a higher spec cab on and the puking went away for a couple hundred miles until the coolant started mixing a bit with the oil

Zmann · Jul 18, 2012

94.5 Stroker said:
He told me i could use the arps but would be more comfortable with the a1s. And know he didnt start this before this one, I don't know where the previous one came from.

it was another thread similar to this , started by a Forum member ,, not the Shop Owner ,, that insinuation wasn't my intent