Best 2.6 charger for a 7.3?

NyCowboy87

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I've always wondered how much head work had been done to Double Overtimes Heads to flow that much air...


You would be surprised what isn't done to the heads.

You are right, a 2.6 charger is small for a 7.3 that's why I made mention of maximizing airflow. Unlike D/O we don't have the luxury of multiple chargers to force feed 200+ psi of charge air in to make up for lack of flow.


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2.6 is an efficiency class. The big cubes are not as efficient with that charger as the smaller ones. Fwiw. Only can support so many cubes with certain cfm of airflow. The rest is a waste. If I were to build a no budget 7.3 puller it would probably be de-stroked to around 400ci.


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02BigD

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My best advice it buy the absolute best. And buy it once. It will save you a lot of money.

And a p-pump... Lol :)


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"P-pump 7.3" and "save you a lot of money" don't even belong in the same thread, even if referring to different subjects or with a ;)

:)

But the point about buying the best and saving money in the long run is ssoooo true, as many can attest.
 
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"P-pump 7.3" and "save you a lot of money" don't even belong in the same thread, even if referring to different subjects or with a ;)



:)



But the point about buying the best and saving money in the long run is ssoooo true, as many can attest.


Most 7.3 truck pullers go through multiple sets of injectors getting the most "current high speed" injectors, different high pressure oil systems, wasted season, after wasted season, after wasted season (Ask me how I know). Or you p-pump it for 10-15k give or take and go out and have a chance of winning from day one. Spend more initially and just do it, be a man about it and go for the win. Or go down the same path as everyone else. (Once again, ask me how I know)......

Not being a dick. But I'm a person that doesn't like wasting money just to lose. Take the advice from some one who has been at the bottom and top of 2.6 class in the last 5 years.


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Groomzybanshee

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Yeah, gonna need more fuel.

Harts is still building hx60's as of last I knew. I've never seems a bigger 2.6 platform. With the size of the turbine idk if you would get much gain going that large.




Yes I have a couple very nice 2.6 chargers that at least when built were the cream of the crop.


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Precisions new 2.6 is 55 based and had a 4inch turbine wheel.
 
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Thinking Mondello Port work, Gen 3 with an Adrenaline, 350/200s to start with, cam and maybe an S468 with 2.6 cover??


That's a solid 700 hp recipe in a 1200+ hp class. Just saying.

Minimum 400 nozzle, hx60 or better and hope your not loosing too bad. Like I said, if it was able to happen somebody would be doing it with heui injectors.

I love powerstrokes as much as anyone. But I'm just talking from experience.


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Groomzybanshee

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Most 7.3 truck pullers go through multiple sets of injectors getting the most "current high speed" injectors, different high pressure oil systems, wasted season, after wasted season, after wasted season (Ask me how I know). Or you p-pump it for 10-15k give or take and go out and have a chance of winning from day one. Spend more initially and just do it, be a man about it and go for the win. Or go down the same path as everyone else. (Once again, ask me how I know)......

Not being a dick. But I'm a person that doesn't like wasting money just to lose. Take the advice from some one who has been at the bottom and top of 2.6 class in the last 5 years.


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It is true been there and Done it. Heui will just not Even come close to making the power a 2.6 truck needs
 
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If I finish dead last so what, if I build a P'pump why even waste time in the 2.6 class, I mean if you're gonna invest in a $5000 pump, why flow barely enough fuel to make 1100hp when the quick rate pumps can push well up past 1500 with a twin setup, at that point I see no point in choking an engine down to compete.. If you guys really are putting the cash up to build a P'pump go for a mod class, I mean good god the 2.6 class in the Ohio Valley is letting 14mm pumps on these wittle 12 valves now, a 14mm pump on a 7.3 with twins is well north of 1600hp... I am gonna spend some time learning with this setup, not trying to tear the whole truck up, I have a Dana 80 to build, and maybe the 400/400s are the best route, and some tuning... The 2.6 class is competitive down here BUT our tracks are solid red clay, anybody who has been to the middle Tenn or Northern Al knows what I'm talking about, all the power in the world won't help you unless you can get it to hook and not snap as it bounces down the track, the dirt is a far cry from the sandy top soil based tracks I grew up around. I guess a set of 400/400s are my best bet at this point then??
 
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If I finish dead last so what, if I build a P'pump why even waste time in the 2.6 class, I mean if you're gonna invest in a $5000 pump, why flow barely enough fuel to make 1100hp when the quick rate pumps can push well up past 1500 with a twin setup, at that point I see no point in choking an engine down to compete.. If you guys really are putting the cash up to build a P'pump go for a mod class, I mean good god the 2.6 class in the Ohio Valley is letting 14mm pumps on these wittle 12 valves now, a 14mm pump on a 7.3 with twins is well north of 1600hp... I am gonna spend some time learning with this setup, not trying to tear the whole truck up, I have a Dana 80 to build, and maybe the 400/400s are the best route, and some tuning... The 2.6 class is competitive down here BUT our tracks are solid red clay, anybody who has been to the middle Tenn or Northern Al knows what I'm talking about, all the power in the world won't help you unless you can get it to hook and not snap as it bounces down the track, the dirt is a far cry from the sandy top soil based tracks I grew up around. I guess a set of 400/400s are my best bet at this point then??


If staying heui then yes 400/400 and spend the money once.

I'm not meaning to be a prick. But last time I pulled against that black 7.3 truck it was 80' behind me. And that was on Tennessee clay.

There is a lot of difference between a p-pump 2.6 truck and a mod truck, about a 100 grand. Not really apples to apples.

The cheapest competitive 2.6 7.3 will ultimately be the one with a p-pump from the beginning. Not really wanting to argue. There really isn't anything to argue about.


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lincolnlocker

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But the point about buying the best and saving money in the long run is ssoooo true, as many can attest.

and that is in all aspects of the diesel world.
If staying heui then yes 400/400 and spend the money once.

I'm not meaning to be a prick. But last time I pulled against that black 7.3 truck it was 80' behind me. And that was on Tennessee clay.

There is a lot of difference between a p-pump 2.6 truck and a mod truck, about a 100 grand. Not really apples to apples.

The cheapest competitive 2.6 7.3 will ultimately be the one with a p-pump from the beginning. Not really wanting to argue. There really isn't anything to argue about.


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especially in the midwest and mid east..

im so turbo limited in michigan that basically my 38r is all i can run. has to be stock footprint unless i bump up to the open class..

live life full throttle
 
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Running a P-pump, my question is porting the heads worth the money? I know you have an ability to inject fuel much more I guess you could say smoothly at upper RPMs where HEUI tends to fall off, is spending 2k plus on cylinder heads worth it??
 

NyCowboy87

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Running a P-pump, my question is porting the heads worth the money? I know you have an ability to inject fuel much more I guess you could say smoothly at upper RPMs where HEUI tends to fall off, is spending 2k plus on cylinder heads worth it??


Of course it's worth it.


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NyCowboy87

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The way I would interpret the rule is who cares how it mounts as long as it's a stock footprint which would be t4.


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