Best bang for the buck traction bars?

chaselee

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I want to get real trump like with such a comment like that.

If you could... only if your capable... take what you've read and make an "educated" decision.

I'm thankful your not involved in engineering collaborative duscussions of any sort. You would shoot yourself.

This thread makes the difference in stupid kiddy forums such as ORG. and PSA. Yes you will read heated discussions but it's far better than the other options with kids shouting why they think what's best is best.

I'm sorry you were not able to learn from this thread as there has been an enormous amount of information given.


Real trump like? The heated discussions is not what bothers me, its that I asked a very simple question on peoples experience with traction bars. Before you know it you have all these dick measuring contests of people trying to show how smart they are and how stupid everyone else is. Out of 18 pages only 3 different brands/manufacturers were mentioned.
 

Vader's Fury

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2 of them are the best on the market. Why discuss all the others?

You would think that you would be able to figure that out from the fact that the others were not mentioned, but you couldn't see all of the good info in the thread either so I guess I shouldn't be surprised.....
 

chaselee

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I understand that 2 of them are probly the best on the market. I also understand that there was good info in the thread, for me I guess it was hard to weed through all the pissing matches to find it
 

Sterling6.7

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Would either brand need any or more maintenance than the other? What causes the cheaper brands to rattle or squeak? Sorry if these are stupid questions.
 

Betarocker

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Not these. Killed by a 6.0L

fabtech1.jpg


fabtech4.jpg


fabtech5.jpg


fabtech2.jpg
 

f100cleveland

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They needed to extend that gusset all the way to the front tube end. Even just angled to there would've done wonders.


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sootie

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I would love to know the circumstances those bars failed in...
 

chaselee

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I would venture to say, that's no lightly tuned and ******d 6.0. It would take some serious power to do that.
 

Betarocker

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I would venture to say, that's no lightly tuned and ******d 6.0. It would take some serious power to do that.

Just running a Gogo Race tune with intake and exhaust. Stock turbo, injectors, fuel system, hpop.

The design of this shackle style traction bar did not allow for articulation and over stressed the fixed heim (sorry, can't think of a better name) on the axle end and the tubing when the gusset ends. When the 3/4" heim broke, it made a hell of a racket.
 

Layson

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Would either brand need any or more maintenance than the other? What causes the cheaper brands to rattle or squeak? Sorry if these are stupid questions.

If you are in the Portland area you could just drive down to Woodburn and pick up a set of OUO bars from their shop.

Pretty much 0 maintenance on OUO bars and if you have to mess with the bushings someday they are easy to change out and easy to get ahold of and cheap.

Anytime you have a joint in a traction bar it is a wear item and will need to be rebuilt or replaced one day. When the joints start to go out they either clunk or squeak. There is even a thread somewhere on this forum of someone changing from a set of traction bars with joints to a set of OUO bars. Since he was tired of how much noise they make.
 

Layson

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They needed to extend that gusset all the way to the front tube end. Even just angled to there would've done wonders.


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I would love to know the circumstances those bars failed in...

Look at how they mount to the axle with two points on each traction bar to the axle. So when the springs want to flex that traction bar HAS to MATCH the same exact travel with the front mount. Having the two mounting points to the axle makes it so the bar can not pivot and it becomes a bending member. We all know that front shackle mount on the traction bar that has a radius of 4 or 6" or whatever will never match that path of the axle. So you back your truck up on a curb with this setup with a trailer hooked up and your traction bars will just bend like that pictures shown. The dinky little joints end up failing too. A stock truck could do this.

So when you look at a set of OUO bars that is why there is just one mounting point connected to the axle. So the axle can still pivot and the traction bar is not a bending member. It can not transfer a bending moment through a single pivot/connecting point at the axle.
 

Jonnydime

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Look at how they mount to the axle with two points on each traction bar to the axle. So when the springs want to flex that traction bar HAS to MATCH the same exact travel with the front mount. Having the two mounting points to the axle makes it so the bar can not pivot and it becomes a bending member. We all know that front shackle mount on the traction bar that has a radius of 4 or 6" or whatever will never match that path of the axle. So you back your truck up on a curb with this setup with a trailer hooked up and your traction bars will just bend like that pictures shown. The dinky little joints end up failing too. A stock truck could do this.

So when you look at a set of OUO bars that is why there is just one mounting point connected to the axle. So the axle can still pivot and the traction bar is not a bending member. It can not transfer a bending moment through a single pivot/connecting point at the axle.

Mine never have. I Have grossed 20k+ on several occasions as well as having 5k in the bed while driving/backing up curbs. My bars still look as good as the day I installed them 4 years ago and are silent. I am pretty sure I have only greased them once in that time frame as well.
 

sootie

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ya, i had the same bars as posted and never had issues with binding at all. Towed heavy and always had something in the bed.
 

Coueshunter

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Look at how they mount to the axle with two points on each traction bar to the axle. So when the springs want to flex that traction bar HAS to MATCH the same exact travel with the front mount.

So the springs are stronger then the traction bar?
 

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