Black Magnum 2.0 assembly

Magnum PD · Aug 18, 2016

Looks like I'll be assembling my motor myself. I'm gonna need any and all advice, tips and procedures about putting together my motor.

First I'll be putting crank in. I can only do outside studs being that I got a girdle. The inner 2 will be in after Pistons are in.

Magnum PD · Aug 18, 2016

I measure the crankshaft bearing diameters and they are at the limit. My Haynes book says 3.1228 to 3.1236.

The largest I got is 3.1229. Smallest at 3.1224.

Not sure if I need .0010 oversized

psduser1 · Aug 18, 2016

It's in tolerance.
If you don't like it, now is the time to fix it.
Did it carry good oil pressure when warm?

Magnum PD · Aug 18, 2016

Not bad but, oil pump took a dump from the shavings.

97stoker350 · Aug 21, 2016

if you're talking about putting the main studs in out of order, plan on cracking a main cap... the proper way to install a girdle is install the crank as if you didn't have a girdle, then take the center stud nuts off, lay the girdle on, then go through torque sequence for center studs on girdle. do not torque the outside studs down alone...

Magnum PD · Aug 23, 2016

Thanks for the info man. With the center studs longer, I wonder if I'll have enough threads to torque them.

gnxtc2 · Aug 24, 2016

Who did the machine work? Were the main saddles bored/honed with the girdle fastened in place?

Billy T.
[email protected]

Magnum PD · Aug 24, 2016

No. Local machine shop.

Strokersace · Aug 24, 2016

Magnum PD said:
No. Local machine shop.

gnxtc2 said:
Who did the machine work? Were the main saddles bored/honed with the girdle fastened in place?

Billy T.
[email protected]

I'm pretty sure that the girdle needs to be in place when you bore/hone. For it to be done right. I'm quite positive I've read that on the forums multiple times.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Magnum PD · Aug 24, 2016

Trying to find someone nearby to do it would be my hang up. This is done WITHOUT bearings in?

97stoker350 · Aug 24, 2016

Without bearings is correct it ensures that all the journals are in line

C'roy78stroker · Aug 24, 2016

Correct. I had a girdle in my 460 and the machinist said that the extra clamping force can slightly egg shape the mains. He torqued the girdle to spec without bearings, let the block settle for a week then line bored it true.

gnxtc2 · Aug 24, 2016

Anytime you hone the main saddles, you want everything (girdle, heads, timing cover) bolted to the block as each part stresses the block differently.

I've put together engines with girdles and you couldn't turn the crank until the girdle was torqued to spec. Alot of engine builders don't have the equipment to be able to hone the mains with the heads and girdle installed. Plus, girdles are a PITA to do correctly.

I would install the main caps/girdle w/o the bearings and check the mains. Use a dial bore gauge. Confirm they didn't distort. Install the bearing and check the opening with the dial bore gauge. Compare the readings to the crank journals. I don't use Plastigauge.

I don't know if the crank was cut. You might have to get a bunch of bearings to mix and match..... .001, .010 to get proper clearance.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Magnum PD · Aug 24, 2016

Crank wasn't cut down. Stock bearings but according to my measurements, on the high side of tolerances.

bluedge8 · Aug 24, 2016

I know this doesn't completely apply, but when I have had cranks done, I had the shop that did that crank provide the correct bearings and I didn't even check them, because, I'm not a machinist, but they were also stock rebuilds. Is there a consideration of not using the girdle if it wasn't line bored with it?

Magnum PD · Dec 15, 2016

Got main bearings ordered. Also have plastigauge to check clearance.

Magnum PD · Dec 20, 2016

Got the main bearing in the block and on the pillars. I got the ARP studs in block also. I put ARP assembly lube on the studs going into the block. May not need it but did it anyway.
Need to put my piston cooling jets in. Won't have much room once connecting rods are installed.