I have got one stud that will not thread down all the way. The 4 shorter studs that are right behind the injectors need to be shorter to make room for the injector clamp. It is the right stud. Swapped another, compared it to the longer ones, still about .100 too tall. Gonna have to chase the threads I guess.
Black Magnum 2.0 assembly
- Thread starter Magnum PD
- Start date
gwunter
Active member
I thought it was always advisable to bottom tap for studs. One of those things done prior to final assemble. Lol 
oke:
oke:That is true, but do humans always do as they are instructed? OCD for example.
The solution is simple, validate the length of thread on bolt is correct. If it's correct? You have two options, drill and
tap the hole deeper or shorten the bolt.
The solution is simple, validate the length of thread on bolt is correct. If it's correct? You have two options, drill and
tap the hole deeper or shorten the bolt.
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gnxtc2
Active member
Should really use a thread chaser but a tap works.
All threaded holes should've been chased during the cleaning phase.
Billy T.
[email protected]
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Hmnn. I could never make a living assembling engines............
When block is received back, before anything else, every hole inspected and chased, every flat surface touched with a flat file to check for burrs, any gasket surface not showing bright cast iron wet sanded with emory and oil using care not to round off any surfaces. All passages cleaned with a brush. Blow through every oil passage and verify. Test fit cam before any other assembly. Cylinder bores washed with soap and water until a white cloth comes clean. Every bolt wire wheeled. All clearances measured. I expect piston clearance maintained within .0005 cylinder to cylinder. Usually test assemble the rotating assembly without rings to verify piston protrusion, rod to jet clearances etc. Meanwhile all the time I'm working on this, my clothes are clean, I blow my clothes off before entering the area, engine always wrapped when not working on it and no passages left open for anything to get or fall into.
When block is received back, before anything else, every hole inspected and chased, every flat surface touched with a flat file to check for burrs, any gasket surface not showing bright cast iron wet sanded with emory and oil using care not to round off any surfaces. All passages cleaned with a brush. Blow through every oil passage and verify. Test fit cam before any other assembly. Cylinder bores washed with soap and water until a white cloth comes clean. Every bolt wire wheeled. All clearances measured. I expect piston clearance maintained within .0005 cylinder to cylinder. Usually test assemble the rotating assembly without rings to verify piston protrusion, rod to jet clearances etc. Meanwhile all the time I'm working on this, my clothes are clean, I blow my clothes off before entering the area, engine always wrapped when not working on it and no passages left open for anything to get or fall into.
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Another process I use when engine is assembled and ready to fire:
Spin over engine with all fluids filled and everything ready EXCEPT no glow plugs. This primes LPO and HPO systems and fuel to injectors. No drag on starter, no load on new dry bearings. I do this with the small HPO system plugs under the valve cover removed (one each side)
Now your new injectors start on the first crank with no air in the HPOP system, no air in fuel system. Just starts and runs. turbo is primed too....
Seriously, it starts and runs like it was running yesterday. No smoking, missing, "doesn't run right because there is still air in the HPOP system"
Last injectors I changed I did this, finished up, let it run 10 minutes, took wife to dinner 30 miles away like nothing ever happened (except new clean power!)
Spin over engine with all fluids filled and everything ready EXCEPT no glow plugs. This primes LPO and HPO systems and fuel to injectors. No drag on starter, no load on new dry bearings. I do this with the small HPO system plugs under the valve cover removed (one each side)
Now your new injectors start on the first crank with no air in the HPOP system, no air in fuel system. Just starts and runs. turbo is primed too....
Seriously, it starts and runs like it was running yesterday. No smoking, missing, "doesn't run right because there is still air in the HPOP system"
Last injectors I changed I did this, finished up, let it run 10 minutes, took wife to dinner 30 miles away like nothing ever happened (except new clean power!)
Garbage_Mechanic
Member
Tempting to use the Moroso gasket however the grey RTV is proven. There are actually 2 different ones, one for the intake manifolds and one for the oil pan etc. Ford or International only, no aftermarket.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
Grey death from ford!
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
I would defiantly like to see some detail pics of the gasket. I plan on installing one in the spring. Debating if I should freshen it up too? Compression is around 360.
I hit a deer a couple of weeks ago. It rolled length wise under the truck. It put a shallow dent in the bottom of the oil pan and of course it's dripping now by the corner where the pan transitions from the block to the rear main bearing. I walked back to check it and it was messed up bad. I didn't even want to take the outer back straps after I saw it. I built a deer deflector for my truck, the front is fine.
Here in NE Wisconsin, it's not uncommon to see 20 to 50 deer in a field. NO BS!
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dsberman94
Well-known member
I've hit 2 deer this year. One died, one didn't. My way to solve the deer damaging the bumper issue, paid for by insurance.
And I wouldn't be using a gasket for permanent if it were my motor. Magnum wants to run the engine on a stand IIRC, and then check and do a hot torque. Using the gasket for the initial run then using gray death, same thing I'd do if I were doing what he is. It's not worth having the gasket leak in 50k miles or so and having to pull the motor again.
Do what works for you.
For me, I prefer things to not get damaged in the first place. I'm finished with that discussion.
As for grey RTV, I don't believe it's the only or best way to seal an oil pan. If you don't
agree? That is fine. I didn't ask for anyone's blessing or approval. I do know that speed
and low coast are the driving forces on an assembly line, not the best quality.
I'm going to TRY the gasket because of it's resiliency. Once again, I'm not looking for
approval. I'm just sharing a different course of action and some detailed pics of the
gasket would be great.
For me, I prefer things to not get damaged in the first place. I'm finished with that discussion.
As for grey RTV, I don't believe it's the only or best way to seal an oil pan. If you don't
agree? That is fine. I didn't ask for anyone's blessing or approval. I do know that speed
and low coast are the driving forces on an assembly line, not the best quality.
I'm going to TRY the gasket because of it's resiliency. Once again, I'm not looking for
approval. I'm just sharing a different course of action and some detailed pics of the
gasket would be great.
psduser1
Well-known member
I've been in your shoes, and unless you're trying to reseal this in the truck, I think you will be disappointed. Been there, done that.
lincolnlocker
Well-known member
we had a vendor that used to sell the moroso gasket for a 7.3 oil pan and he quit selling it due to its failure rate.. just saying..
international/motorcraft gray death is all I would use..
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
international/motorcraft gray death is all I would use..
live life full throttle
god bless america and the farmer who feeds your fat ass
When I used the moroso gasket it was sliding off the sealing surface on the front of the pan.
I ended up having to using Ford grey rtv. I waited for it to get tacky and then torqued it down to spec. It didn't leak but I essentially had to glue the gasket to the block and the pan.
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I ended up having to using Ford grey rtv. I waited for it to get tacky and then torqued it down to spec. It didn't leak but I essentially had to glue the gasket to the block and the pan.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
