Boost question

gnxtc2 · Mar 27, 2017

I have this Dieselsite Boost Fooler installed. The blue/silver fitting is for my boost gauge. The brass/pop-off valve is suppose to "open" when boost reaches a pre-set pressure. The black hose goes to the spyder. My question is.....would the pop-off valve limit boost in the entire system? I only could make 25 lbs boost. I moved the boost gauge tubing right to the spyder and it didn't change my boost reading (not pictured).

I know there is an air regulator type boost fooler out there. Anyone know the part number for it?

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

79jasper · Mar 27, 2017

There's this one. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/ocr-overboost-code-regulator/
I know there's other versions too.

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jeremiahmercier · Mar 27, 2017

I had this one, https://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2677-driven-diesel-overboost-annihilator.aspx never had an issue. I tried the brv like you have pictured and had boost leaks too, swapped to the regulator type and never looked back

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superpsd · Mar 27, 2017

A standard air regulator should work no problem.

The Brad · Mar 27, 2017

Check the tube going to the gauge for cracks or brittleness. I was boosting low and found a lengthwise split in the 1/8th hose going through my firewall. I'm running the Dieselsite BRV and hit 42+ easily. My MAP agrees with the boost gauge 'til 22psi, then the BRV opens.

mandkole · Mar 28, 2017

I've got a similar valve and go well past 25. I can only assume it works correctly since I've never checked it.

DZL JIM · Mar 28, 2017

You will not limit boost in the entire system by that little pop-off valve. It would take a larger sized dump gate to do that.
Your pop-off should dump pressure off that little line going to the MAP and that's about it, doing what it's intended to do.

But I have to ask why? I ran over 60 psi on my truck with no boost limiter and it never de-fueled. OBS trucks don't need the fooler like the SD maps do.

Edit: I re-read the posts here. Many guys responding have SD trucks, and the 6.0 maps are the same as the 7.3 SD map sensors, hence the need with those trucks, too.

Arisley · Mar 28, 2017

I have pegged my 60 lb. boost gauge numerous times. No boost fooler, no defuel.

Swaan · Mar 28, 2017

DZL JIM said:
You will not limit boost in the entire system by that little pop-off valve. It would take a larger sized dump gate to do that.
Your pop-off should dump pressure off that little line going to the MAP and that's about it, doing what it's intended to do.

But I have to ask why? I ran over 60 psi on my truck with no boost limiter and it never de-fueled. OBS trucks don't need the fooler like the SD maps do.

Edit: I re-read the posts here. Many guys responding have SD trucks, and the 6.0 maps are the same as the 7.3 SD map sensors, hence the need with those trucks, too.

Wrong,
The obs trucks need a fooler too. Mine defueled and bucked violently under wot till i put a regulator in map line.

Billy i would go the regulator route over that deal you got goin on.

People try like crazy to seal up any and all boost leaks to gain performance and there you go and install one..

Never liked those .

superpsd · Mar 28, 2017

I've had mine way over 35psi not one issue. No fooler or regulator.

The Brad · Mar 28, 2017

DZL JIM said:
You will not limit boost in the entire system by that little pop-off valve. It would take a larger sized dump gate to do that.
Your pop-off should dump pressure off that little line going to the MAP and that's about it, doing what it's intended to do.

But I have to ask why? I ran over 60 psi on my truck with no boost limiter and it never de-fueled. OBS trucks don't need the fooler like the SD maps do.

Edit: I re-read the posts here. Many guys responding have SD trucks, and the 6.0 maps are the same as the 7.3 SD map sensors, hence the need with those trucks, too.

My understanding is, back before tuning was able inhibit the over boost, the foolers were needed. Now I just run one to make the map sensor live longer.

jeremiahmercier · Mar 28, 2017

Swaan said:
Wrong,
The obs trucks need a fooler too. Mine defueled and bucked violently under wot till i put a regulator in map line.

Billy i would go the regulator route over that deal you got goin on.

People try like crazy to seal up any and all boost leaks to gain performance and there you go and install one..

Never liked those .

Mine too would defuel, buck a little and set the cel without a regulator installed

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gnxtc2 · Mar 29, 2017

Swaan said:
Wrong,
The obs trucks need a fooler too. Mine defueled and bucked violently under wot till i put a regulator in map line.

Billy i would go the regulator route over that deal you got goin on.

People try like crazy to seal up any and all boost leaks to gain performance and there you go and install one..

Never liked those .

Hmmmmm...you got me thinking.

When I stomp on the throttle from a dead stop, the truck starts bucking violently. If I ease into the throttle, it doesn't buck. Wierd

I set my shop's air compressor regulator to 25 lbs and hooked it up to my boost gauge tubing .....the boost gauge showed 10 lbs. I flexed the gauge within the pod and it jumped to 15 lbs. I have to investigate it further as I had to go to work. Either it's a kinked/broken tube or bad gauge.

I ordered a 25lb pre-set regulator from McMaster, similiar to the Riff-Raff one.

Truck feels to strong to be only making 25 lbs of boost. Something is going on.

Thanks

Billy T.
[email protected]

Swaan · Mar 29, 2017

Probley the guage. Your truck would have high egts when towing if you had a boost issue.

hucorey · Mar 29, 2017

Yup, no need to even run a fooled unless you just want to protect it from getting damaged. Most tuners write files based on the fuel map and not the boost map. So they don't really care what boost is.

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Countrycar · Mar 29, 2017

The Brad said:
My understanding is, back before tuning was able inhibit the over boost, the foolers were needed. Now I just run one to make the map sensor live longer.

Yup this right here.
Matt's tunes do not require a boost fooler. I thought most guys were tuning this way now a days. I put a 6.0 map sensor on my truck. See's a little bit higher boost, and throttle tends to be a bit more linear, but again,it has to be tuned for the 6.0 map sensor as well. I'm not sure what would happen if a guy just through one on there.

superpsd · Mar 29, 2017

My MAP stops reading at 23.5 psi. I can run my injectors on a stock tune and still don't have any bucking issues etc etc without a regulator or fooler.

Jennifer@Dieselsite · Mar 30, 2017

I thought tuning can eliminate the code AND the defuel.

The BRV is just a mechanical option for guys who don't want to rely on the electrical to take care of it or also need the additional port for a boost gauge. So... if you have a tune on the truck and notice you can push past 24 PSI and never defuel or throw a light, guess what you don't need! It's standard in 6.0L tuners as well and I'm pretty sure the reason I've never had to sell a BRV to a 6.0L guy.

Also, let's get a little more serious here. This valve isn't causing the OP's boost leak. It's like poking a pinhole in a hot air ballon and Rosewood is right: it's just not possible to produce a leak like that by design. OP has a much more serious leak going on (175s right? should be 30+?) or is possibly having a tuning issue. Can't see what he's running.

gnxtc2 · Mar 30, 2017

Jennifer@Dieselsite said:
Also, let's get a little more serious here. This valve isn't causing the OP's boost leak. It's like poking a pinhole in a hot air ballon and Rosewood is right: it's just not possible to produce a leak like that by design. OP has a much more serious leak going on (175s right? should be 30+?) or is possibly having a tuning issue. Can't see what he's running.

Pssst......your valve IS a leak. When your valve senses whatever pressure it's set for, it dumps the excess pressure to the atmosphere.....leak. I never said I had a boost leak. I've been in this game a long time to know I have a boost leak. All I posted was a question about the valve. How things get twisted.

UPDATE:

And Swaan was correct :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:, it was my boost gauge. The needle was sticky. Comfirmed with my air compressor. Set the air pressure to 30 psi and hooked it up to the tubing in the engine compartment. Gauge would stop at 20 lbs. I tapped on the gauge and it jumped to 25 then tapped again it went to 30. The needle would stick at slow pressure rise. If I opened the valve, the pressure, the needle went right up. I removed the gauge to verify it's not the tubing and duplicated the issue on the bench. Needless to say, the gauge is on its way to Autometer.

Billy T.
[email protected]

Jennifer@Dieselsite · Apr 3, 2017

gnxtc2 said:
Pssst......your valve IS a leak. When your valve senses whatever pressure it's set for, it dumps the excess pressure to the atmosphere.....leak. I never said I had a boost leak. I've been in this game a long time to know I have a boost leak. All I posted was a question about the valve. How things get twisted.

UPDATE:

And Swaan was correct :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:, it was my boost gauge. The needle was sticky. Comfirmed with my air compressor. Set the air pressure to 30 psi and hooked it up to the tubing in the engine compartment. Gauge would stop at 20 lbs. I tapped on the gauge and it jumped to 25 then tapped again it went to 30. The needle would stick at slow pressure rise. If I opened the valve, the pressure, the needle went right up. I removed the gauge to verify it's not the tubing and duplicated the issue on the bench. Needless to say, the gauge is on its way to Autometer.

Billy T.
[email protected]

I hope you didn't think I was implying ours isn't a "leak".... was just reaffirming that it couldn't be causing your particular issue based on design in response to some of the other posts in thread (not you in particular). Glad you were able to figure it out so fast though! And hopefully one you can get warrantied.