? Bout pulling motor and other things

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

I am gonna do some valve springs and head studs this winter.. I am curious what the easiest way to do.it in the shortest amount of time ? Cab on motor in? Cab off? Or pull the motor.
Does the front clip have to come out to get the motor pulled? Anything else I should do while the motor is out ?
sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

kyle43335 · Dec 13, 2012

pulling the engine would be quickest.

have the heads gone over while they're off

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

Was thinking bout leaving the heads on......

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

And how many hours and what all needs to come off to pull motor

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

Arisley · Dec 13, 2012

I would do it with the motor in the truck. Undo the motor mounts, rock the engine to one side, repeat for the other side.

No reason whatsoever to remove heads to do studs, just replace them one at a time.

If you have the cheap valve spring tool with the star on the top of it to tighten it, you will have to modify it. Remove the star and weld a lug nut on the top of it. Tightens down perfect with a ratcheting box end wrench. If you need one I will be glad to loan you mine.

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

Could both springs and studs be done in a day with motor in?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

MINK · Dec 13, 2012

Why waist your time on a pmr engine.

Black 02 · Dec 13, 2012

Do the job with the engine in. It's not hard. You can use an impact wrench to remove all the studs (1 at a time,

). Just rock the engine.

Get this spring compressor. I used it. No mods required.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER3271_0006401318

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

MINK said:
Why waist your time on a pmr engine.

What's wrong with pmrs? Studs and springs could be swapped to a new block when this one blows no?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

Black 02 said:
Do the job with the engine in. It's not hard. You can use an impact wrench to remove all the studs (1 at a time, ). Just rock the engine.

Get this spring compressor. I used it. No mods required.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER3271_0006401318

That one looks good.

Once the motor is rocked is it still a PITA to get to them?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

Arisley · Dec 13, 2012

I did studs, springs, injectors, turbo and exhaust is a single weekend. In my driveway, by myself.

Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

Arisley said:
I did studs, springs, injectors, turbo and exhaust is a single weekend. In my driveway, by myself.

Sent from my truck while eating, adjusting the radio and passing a Mustang sideways.

Good to know..thinkin bout replacing up pipe leaknuts this same time. Any pointers on those?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

Arisley · Dec 13, 2012

I use the cheap carquest Chevy small block donuts. Slather them with antisieze, never had a problem.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, the turbo was not just a turbo swap, it was changing from the early 99 turbo to an H2E, Had to change uppies, intake plenums, turbo mounting kit and everything else that goes with it.

bruce · Dec 13, 2012

i wouldn't waste the time to do either. i've been make 450+ horse for 3 years on pmrs, no studs, no valve springs. its just dumb to waste the time to do all that crap when the pmrs are the weak link. get you a forged rod engine anf throw your goodies on that one. but thats me

dentexpowerstroke · Dec 13, 2012

If you're running good tuning I wouldnt even worry much about the pmrs, i was going to stud and spring my pmr block but I ended up finding a forged block. If it blows throw the studs and springs on the new motor. I've been more worried about blowing an hg than spitting out rods since i got my 366.

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

I guess you guys can call me crazy.. but I want to see how much powers I can get out of pmrs . Thinking bout a 38r next and don't know when springs are needed. Rather be safe then boned

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

Black 02 · Dec 13, 2012

littleredstroker said:
That one looks good.

Once the motor is rocked is it still a PITA to get to them?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

It's easy with the motor rocked.

You just need a good magnet for the keepers, a rubber mallet to get the keepers to pop out, and a ratcheting boxend wrench for the compressor. Getting the best bite on the spring is key. I didn't get the springs compressed far enough on the first couple and took me forever. Compress the springs down so there is very little gap if any between the coils and you'll be money.

MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP THE VALVE ON A CYLINDER WITH THE PISTON DOWN!:drool:

bruce · Dec 13, 2012

littleredstroker said:
I guess you guys can call me crazy.. but I want to see how much powers I can get out of pmrs . Thinking bout a 38r next and don't know when springs are needed. Rather be safe then boned

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

You're boned to start with considering you have pmr. I think the rods will go before the heads pop off. Its like polishing a turd.

littleredstroker · Dec 13, 2012

Ok so let me ask this. At what point are studs and springs necessary

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

dentexpowerstroke · Dec 13, 2012

40psi is when id worry about studs and springs. I was going to push high HP on pmrs and just swap when it blows but i have a week off at Xmas so i figured id get it put of the way. As far as i know me and David are the highest on pmrs at 500+ based on track times. I kmow Dennis from stricly diesel made good power on pmrs too