? Bout pulling motor and other things

Black 02

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Ok so let me ask this. At what point are studs and springs necessary

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

I know Matt at Full Force recommended studs and springs for me with the S468. I was only running Stage II injectors, but was hitting 45 psi of boost wide open.

He popped a head gasket on the first drag pass with that turbo. I think it's all about volume of air and psi. I'd say anything over 40 psi is danger on stock studs and springs.
 

Lang

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2 questions... 1 do springs need to be replaced with certain mileage? 2 can you guys explain this engine tilt a lil better? Like your using a crane to pick it up a little?
 

Black 02

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2 questions... 1 do springs need to be replaced with certain mileage? 2 can you guys explain this engine tilt a lil better? Like your using a crane to pick it up a little?

Unbolt the engine mounts (2 bolts each side). Loosen the trans mount at the trans crossmember. Take a 4x4 block and orientate it vertically up under the exhaust manifold. Place a floor jack under the 4x4 and start jacking slowly. Rinse and repeat!

There is a tutorial with pictures on here somewhere. Just do a search! :clapping:
 

kyle43335

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LOL are you serious?

yes. the time spent with blocks of wood, jacking the motor around, making room,etc, etc. i will have that sob out, on a stand, and banged out. not mention i can look the whole engine over better for anything else that might pop up, a bit more effective.

but a decision for me to pull a engine,is like you deciding to change your oil.


but i do this stuff every day.
 
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fordfreak4life

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yes. the time spent with blocks of wood, jacking the motor around, making room,etc, etc. i will have that sob out, on a stand, and banged out. not mention i can look the whole engine over better for anything else that might pop up, a bit more effective.

but a decision for me to pull a engine,is like you deciding to change your oil.


but i do this stuff every day.

Little on the arrogant side aren't we?

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kyle43335

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Little on the arrogant side aren't we?

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not really, just a simple answer. you should talk about arrogance though. just about every response, and answer you give on here is filled with arrogance and derogatory meaning.
 

fordfreak4life

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not really, just a simple answer. you should talk about arrogance though. just about every response, and answer you give on here is filled with arrogance and derogatory meaning.

Lol sure thing dicky

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OSCS

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yes. the time spent with blocks of wood, jacking the motor around, making room,etc, etc. i will have that sob out, on a stand, and banged out. not mention i can look the whole engine over better for anything else that might pop up, a bit more effective.

but a decision for me to pull a engine,is like you deciding to change your oil.


but i do this stuff every day.

Yeah becuase a floor jack and a 4x4 is way more cumbersome than an engine hoist......... if you were such an expert you would know that you dont need to make room. I removed nothing besides the valve covers and intercooler pipes when i did mine, no ac compressor not even the alternator. Also What about the comment of having the heads off? How In any way does that relate to a spring and stud install? And ill bet you $1000 there is NO WAY in hell you could pull a motor out, stud it, spring it and put it back in by the time I'm done doing the same thing in cab.
 
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OSCS

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No one really said how ling it takes to yank and what has to come off to pull the motor. Jut out of curiosity

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

Whole front clip has to come off, turbo needs to be removed prior to pulling the motor, well with a t4 kit anyways. Yes that means radiator, intercooler etc. which also means you need to drain your coolant and waist money to fill it back up
 
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kyle43335

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Yeah becuase a floor jack and a 4x4 is way more cumbersome than an engine hoist......... if you were such an expert you would know that you dont need to make room. I removed nothing besides the valve covers and intercooler pipes when i did mine, no ac compressor not even the alternator. Also What about the comment of having the heads off? How In any way does that relate to a spring and stud install? And ill bet you $1000 there is NO WAY in hell you could pull a motor out, stud it, spring it and put it back in by the time I'm done doing the same thing in cab.

hey im not going to go round for round with you on this. you do it your way, i will do it mine.

as far as the heads being off? with what the op has done to the truck,and what he will be doing, why wouldn't you look the heads over, check the valves, and seats, guides, etc.

carry on fella's. im done here.
 

TyCorr

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I stripped everything minus the turbo in hour and a half last friday night. Air or electric impact is your allie.
 

TyCorr

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yes. the time spent with blocks of wood, jacking the motor around, making room,etc, etc. i will have that sob out, on a stand, and banged out. not mention i can look the whole engine over better for anything else that might pop up, a bit more effective.

but a decision for me to pull a engine,is like you deciding to change your oil.


but i do this stuff every day.

Anybody that thinks hes FOS or being stupid hasnt seen someone efficient at yanking the motor. My truck is.lifted and it blows plain and.simple to eff around on the top of the.motor. I dont appreciate the climbing up and down.

I think if I were to do a.few more motor.extractions, I could do it in two, two.and.half.hours.

The ability to inspect everything is worth it to me.
 

OSCS

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I never said anyone was FOE and I pulled my motor out in 3 hours the first time. I just don't think it's faster. Becuase I've done it both ways. That's all I'm sayin
 

neverkickn

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For someone that hasn't pulled a motor before it WON'T be faster. You also have to consider the cost of new coolant unless you catch it and reuse. Lets not forget the time it takes to put the motor back in and button everything bck up.
 

02BigD

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Realistically pulling the motor for the first time, 5 hours to have it on the hoist and ready to come out, would be my bet. One could be 3/4 of the way done springs and studs in the truck in that time frame.
 

kyle43335

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Anybody that thinks hes FOS or being stupid hasnt seen someone efficient at yanking the motor. My truck is.lifted and it blows plain and.simple to eff around on the top of the.motor. I dont appreciate the climbing up and down.

I think if I were to do a.few more motor.extractions, I could do it in two, two.and.half.hours.

The ability to inspect everything is worth it to me.
:thumbup:

For someone that hasn't pulled a motor before it WON'T be faster. You also have to consider the cost of new coolant unless you catch it and reuse. Lets not forget the time it takes to put the motor back in and button everything bck up.

i understand your point. but you as well as oscs uses coolant cost as a direct relevance, or hindering factor to pull or not pull a engine(oscs called it a "waste of money") (it's the way bolth of you brought the cost of coolant to the table)

wtf the chit only costs 13-15$ per gallon.

if coolant cost means that much to you? can you/ should you really be modding your trucks, money wise?


at the end of the day, whats the argument worth. most are going to torque the heads down with a pos harbor freight torque wrench, thats about as accurate as a one legged ass kicker. motor in or out. then bitch once something happens. (i dont understand. i did everything psa told me to!!)

lmfao
 

rascal

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Unbolt the engine mounts (2 bolts each side). Loosen the trans mount at the trans crossmember. Take a 4x4 block and orientate it vertically up under the exhaust manifold. Place a floor jack under the 4x4 and start jacking slowly. Rinse and repeat!

There is a tutorial with pictures on here somewhere. Just do a search! :clapping:

I looked for the tutorial but I could not find it.

Is it necessary to jack the engine?
 

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