? Bout pulling motor and other things

[OSCS]

I looked for the tutorial but I could not find it.

Is it necessary to jack the engine?

Yes

 

[Arisley]

I looked for the tutorial but I could not find it.

Is it necessary to jack the engine?

That or drill a big hole in the firewall to remove a headbolt, and remove the A/C box on the passenger side. Or pull the motor.

 

[littleredstroker]

:thumbup:



i understand your point. but you as well as oscs uses coolant cost as a direct relevance, or hindering factor to pull or not pull a engine(oscs called it a "waste of money") (it's the way bolth of you brought the cost of coolant to the table)

wtf the chit only costs 13-15$ per gallon.

if coolant cost means that much to you? can you/ should you really be modding your trucks, money wise?


at the end of the day, whats the argument worth. most are going to torque the heads down with a pos harbor freight torque wrench, thats about as accurate as a one legged ass kicker. motor in or out. then bitch once something happens. (i dont understand. i did everything psa told me to!!)

lmfao

Snap on actually...

What about pulling the cab?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

 

[OSCS]

:thumbup:



i understand your point. but you as well as oscs uses coolant cost as a direct relevance, or hindering factor to pull or not pull a engine(oscs called it a "waste of money") (it's the way bolth of you brought the cost of coolant to the table)

wtf the chit only costs 13-15$ per gallon.

if coolant cost means that much to you? can you/ should you really be modding your trucks, money wise?


at the end of the day, whats the argument worth. most are going to torque the heads down with a pos harbor freight torque wrench, thats about as accurate as a one legged ass kicker. motor in or out. then bitch once something happens. (i dont understand. i did everything psa told me to!!)

lmfao

13-15 cents a gallon? Not at any of the local parts stores in the greater houston area.. But you seem to be dead set on pulling the entire engine out for a relatively simple upgrade so have at it. I've been butting heads with to many members this week LOL

 

[Arisley]

:thumbup:



i understand your point. but you as well as oscs uses coolant cost as a direct relevance, or hindering factor to pull or not pull a engine(oscs called it a "waste of money") (it's the way bolth of you brought the cost of coolant to the table)

wtf the chit only costs 13-15$ per gallon.

if coolant cost means that much to you? can you/ should you really be modding your trucks, money wise?


at the end of the day, whats the argument worth. most are going to torque the heads down with a pos harbor freight torque wrench, thats about as accurate as a one legged ass kicker. motor in or out. then bitch once something happens. (i dont understand. i did everything psa told me to!!)

lmfao

What's a torque wrench, I just use my impact.




































Kidding.

 

[dentexpowerstroke]

hey im not going to go round for round with you on this. you do it your way, i will do it mine.

as far as the heads being off? with what the op has done to the truck,and what he will be doing, why wouldn't you look the heads over, check the valves, and seats, guides, etc.

carry on fella's. im done here.

Because its a pmr motor, i see studding it and springs to give it a chance but its going to blow up either way. If you pull the heads you might as well replace the rods on it. It'd be retarded to pull the heads on a pmr motor and leave the rods.

 

[littleredstroker]

When I was little I had a bad habbit of tightening everything as tight as I could. Can't count how many grade 8 bolts I snapped. I started tqing everything.

The purpose of this thread was that I could learn what works, what doesent, and how to do things I don't know about. I have a feeling when I pull this motor it will be in pieces ... Maybe that will make it easier !

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

 

[neverkickn]

:thumbup:



i understand your point. but you as well as oscs uses coolant cost as a direct relevance, or hindering factor to pull or not pull a engine(oscs called it a "waste of money") (it's the way bolth of you brought the cost of coolant to the table)

wtf the chit only costs 13-15$ per gallon.

if coolant cost means that much to you? can you/ should you really be modding your trucks, money wise?


at the end of the day, whats the argument worth. most are going to torque the heads down with a pos harbor freight torque wrench, thats about as accurate as a one legged ass kicker. motor in or out. then bitch once something happens. (i dont understand. i did everything psa told me to!!)

lmfao

Forget about the cost of coolant, the time advantage alone is reason enough to do studs in chasis for a first timer. Lifted trucks as tycor said pose a new issue that must be considered but I can have a motor out and on a stand pretty frickin quick and I would still do the studs in chasis if i had the choice.

At the end of the day it's a matter of personal preferance. Hell there are shops that do this alot that install studs in chasis and conversly there are those that pull em out.

 

[rascal]

That or drill a big hole in the firewall to remove a headbolt, and remove the A/C box on the passenger side. Or pull the motor.

Anyone know where to find the tutorial?

Thanks!

 

[rascal]

Some of you guys might get a laugh out of this but I wrote Bill Hewitt @ PowerStrokeHelp.com and he told me that stud in were chassis is impossible to do correctly.

What are the correct torque specs for the heads? Chiltons/Haynes both say 65 lb ft 1st sequence, 85 lb ft 2nd sequence, and 95 lb ft 3rd sequence. That sounds awfully low.

Thanks

 

[OSCS]

I went 95lbs first time 115 second and 125 3rd. The stock head studs are at 90lbs IIRC. As far as the guy telling you it can't be done correctly he has no idea what he is talking about. As long as you can get the sequence and proper torque needed it doesn't matter if you did it on the moon.

 

[rascal]

you did that for ARP's?

 

[OSCS]

you did that for ARP's?

Yup, some people do 120 some people do 130

 

[neverkickn]

Don't torque past the recomendation on the arps.

 

[Arisley]

I think I did 140 on my H-11's.

The biggest reason I would not pull the heads, if the stock headgaskets are holding fine, do not mess with that seal. It is there, been there for a long time. Lots of people replace headgaskets and then have to replace them again and again. It takes a lot of heat cycles to form a really good seal on the headgaskets. You also need to do a few retorques after heating the truck to operating temp and then letting it cool. Rinse, repeat, over and over, thats a lot ofinjector pulling.

Also why I like H-11's that have been used once over brand new, they have been stretched and do not need a re-torque. Mine were torqued once. After a few heat cycles I checked every Headstud on the outside of the valve covers, not a single one even budged. Been running like that for a lot of miles now.

 

[littleredstroker]

How many re torques? And how long in between?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

 

[Arisley]

With out replacing head gaskets, I would do the first one after 1 heat cycle. Then I would run another heat cycle and check the ones outside the valve covers, if even one budges, remove valve covers, remove injectors and do them all. Repeat until they do not move. One is usually enough, it sometimes takes two, I have even heard of three.

With replacing head gaskets, it takes more, not sure how many but it is more.

 

[littleredstroker]

By heat cycle u mean drive it for 30 min then do it again? While motor is warm? Cold?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!

 

[Arisley]

You let the motor cool before the retorque.

You don't have to drive it, just let it run until the temp comes up to normal.

 

[littleredstroker]

ok. I've heard of guys re torqueing stock bolts . Is this a no no ?

sent while trying not to JJ My rods!!!!!!