Budget Bulletproofing plan?

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

I've been going through ideas on how to bulletproof a 6.0 on a budget and this is what I have thus far:
Step 1: acquire 6.0 lol j/k(well kinda)

Keep in mind this would all be done at home.

Short term(1-2mo):
•Coolant filter
•Fuel pressure spring
•Monitor- edge cs seems popular, but I keep wondering, would it be cheaper/beneficial to get a livewire Ts w/ a tune a little later down the road(2-4mo), or the edge now, then SCT with tune later? Iirc the livewire route would be cheaper, but is a monitor THAT important NOW?

Around 5mo:
•Egr delete
•Oil cooler- it's my understanding that to do the egr delete, the cooler would be accessible. So, remove the cooler and inspect it, if its not clogged and deltas are in check, leave it(if it isn't working properly, then replace)
•STC fittings-Accessible at this point. Correct?

Long term:
•Oil cooler if it wasn't already done-I read that a coolant flush could stir up debris, and potential clog a new cooler. Assuming that is true, would the coolant filter eliminate the need to worry about debris getting into the cooler? If not then coolant flush with the old cooler in, run it a bit, then new cooler.
•Studs(in cab)-I understand that common practice is gaskets and getting heads decked, but that's harder(physically and financially). At this point(egr delete, new cooler, studs) is there any worry about gaskets failing? Also, in the event that they do fail then I'd need to replace them and get the heads decked(can reuse ARP studs correct?). Trying to weigh the cost/benefit/odds, cost would be the same to do studs now and have hg fail vs studs, hg, decked etc. down the road, but what are the odds/chances of the hg failing that it is studded and everything else? Obviously I'd rather not have to tear into it twice(at least not in a short time period).

While this is all hypothetical at the moment(hopefully not for long), I want to compile my thoughts/game plan. And verify that my facts are straight.

I'm looking for confirmation/ denial/ suggestions and any input y'all may have :thumbup:

Sorry for the long winded post.

Sent from the Bayou

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

JD Dearden said:
No.

Is this a "gtfo" No or a "sh!t" won't work no?
Either way, why?

Sent from the Bayou

20007.3L · Jul 25, 2013

Powerstroke214 said:
Is this a "gtfo" No or a "sh!t" won't work no?
Either way, why?

Sent from the Bayou

is it studded?

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

20007.3L said:
is it studded?

There is no one truck I'm talking about specifically, but I'm not planning to buy one that is studded. Usually they are quite a bit more expensive, and I'm buying on faith hoping that I spent that $4k on a truck that has been actually bulletproofed, and not just studded.

Sent from the Bayou

20007.3L · Jul 25, 2013

buy a 7.3L LOL

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

First purchase = blue spring kit, 6.4 banjos, change all fluids and filters (start off fresh), and most important, Autoenginuity. 500 - 600 for all that

Drive a while and monitor and get to know your truck. The EGR cooler (IMO) needs to come out as soon as you can, but if you monitor a while, you will know what else needs to be done while in surgery. i.e. oil cooler, turbo rebuilds, y-pipes, STC fitting are all easier during EGR delete. Coolant filter if you want at this time.

And at some point you'll want to make sure updated dummy plugs and standpipes are done. Good to do at headgasket time or injectors, just remember, the high pressure oil problems are the ones that leave you stranded.

Exhaust when the green is plentiful

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

20007.3L said:
buy a 7.3L LOL

If that's all you want, buy a dodge.....same thing LOL

20007.3L · Jul 25, 2013

Lassie said:
If that's all you want, buy a dodge.....same thing LOL

HEY HEY HEY NOW~!

Snake · Jul 25, 2013

Lassie said:
6.4 banjos.......

I was with you on pretty much everything else you said except this. The 6.4 banjo bolts have no measurable benefits.

OP -- the least expensive way to improve the reliability of a 6.0 is to buy one that's already had all of the work done. Just make sure it was done correctly.
.

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

Haha....jk. I love the 6.0s, but I kind of feel ya. I think the 6.0 is definitely a younger mans truck. My back could use a 7.3

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

7.3s are ok, but I like the newer "amenities" of the later model 6.0s. Unless something major goes wrong with a 6.0 and I have to spend a ton to fix it, I can't see a reason to go w/ a 7.3 instead. I just need this to last me 4-5 years, no towing(maybe, but it'll be light), to the track a couple of times, maybe a trip or two here or there. It won't be used hard, and I don't really go anywhere(ie. I won't be putting 100k on it in 5 years).

And a 6.0 is often cheaper(to buy) than a 7.3 in good condition.

Sent from the Bayou

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

You seem like a young fella. Dont be scared of a 6.0. Take the advice these guys give you and you'll actually end up with a very reliable and fun truck.

The fun part and the reliability part are inversely proportional to each other though!

I bet you will enjoy the proofing process...I still do, even though it hurts.

And Snake, you may be 100% right about measurable benefits. I have just read of possible restriction in the snubber valves of the 6.0 bolts and I bought into them I guess. Plus, at $15, it's not gonna break most banks.

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

Lassie said:
First purchase = blue spring kit, 6.4 banjos, change all fluids and filters (start off fresh), and most important, Autoenginuity. 500 - 600 for all that

Drive a while and monitor and get to know your truck. The EGR cooler (IMO) needs to come out as soon as you can, but if you monitor a while, you will know what else needs to be done while in surgery. i.e. oil cooler, turbo rebuilds, y-pipes, STC fitting are all easier during EGR delete. Coolant filter if you want at this time.

And at some point you'll want to make sure updated dummy plugs and standpipes are done. Good to do at headgasket time or injectors, just remember, the high pressure oil problems are the ones that leave you stranded.

Exhaust when the green is plentiful

What exactly does an AE get me that I couldn't get from say an insight CS or Livewire? I only ask bc if all 3 can do the same(read DTCs etc.) then I think getting the CS or Livewire would be better, to use as a monitor for later.

Looks like I need to do some homework on banjo bolts, dummy plugs and standpipes.

The truck I'm looking at has been straightpiped, so noise wise, I'll be satisfied lol. I love the look of a 5in exh, but I can wait. A family friend has a 6.0 that he plans on trading in next year with a 5in turbo back, and he offered to swap w/ me before he sells.

I agree on the 6.0 being a young mans truck lol. Despite its quirks, I'd prefer one over a 7.3.

Sent from the Bayou

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

The ability to run buzz tests, power balance, cont tests, and lots of stuff it offers will save you thousands down the road.

Although, a good reader will get you through most issues, AE or some type of diagnostic tool is needed for some systems. The main ones you will probably be concerned about (being a 6.0) are injector tests, ability to cycle turbo, ability to adjust IPR, and more. If you plan on doing your own upkeep on this truck, this is a must.

And actually, after you price AE with Ford bundle from strictly, it probably wont hurt your pocket as much as you think.

Powerstroke214 · Jul 25, 2013

Ah ok, definitely need to add that to the list.

Of course it'd be for Windows only and I have a Mac :doh:

Sent from the Bayou

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

Powerstroke214 said:
Ah ok, definitely need to add that to the list.

Of course it'd be for Windows only and I have a Mac :doh:

Sent from the Bayou

Mac??? you rebelious kid! Bill Gates is a Ford man!

jdc753 · Jul 25, 2013

Looks like you have a good handle on it.

For you're oil cooler inspection during EGR delete...

Most of the basic EGR deletes you don't NEED to remove the intake manifold to complete the delete, instead you remove the intake bolts on the passenger side and loosen the bolts on the drivers side and basically wiggle the cooler out from under the intake, and then slap in the re-route plate.

Fuel spring is only like $25 so no problem doing that. Find a way to monitor oil/coolant and watch it, when the temps start getting bad do the oil cooler.

Studs - wait till it blows, save cash while you wait and then do it right and only do it once. Strip down the top end, check and double check for flatness and put it back together with all the updates (good time for oil cooler since it will only be 10 minutes at this point.)

Or buy one that is done when the previous owner ditches it in frustration after just shelling out $4k to fix the truck.

Lassie · Jul 25, 2013

jdc753 said:
Looks like you have a good handle on it.

For you're oil cooler inspection during EGR delete...

Most of the basic EGR deletes you don't NEED to remove the intake manifold to complete the delete, instead you remove the intake bolts on the passenger side and loosen the bolts on the drivers side and basically wiggle the cooler out from under the intake, and then slap in the re-route plate.

Fuel spring is only like $25 so no problem doing that. Find a way to monitor oil/coolant and watch it, when the temps start getting bad do the oil cooler.

Studs - wait till it blows, save cash while you wait and then do it right and only do it once. Strip down the top end, check and double check for flatness and put it back together with all the updates (good time for oil cooler since it will only be 10 minutes at this point.)

Or buy one that is done when the previous owner ditches it in frustration after just shelling out $4k to fix the truck.

It would be awfully hard for me to throw an intake back on without cleaning. One of the best parts of deleting the EGR sys is getting that soot out and keeping it out..

jdc753 · Jul 25, 2013

oh beneficial for sure, but just starting out and with plans to eventually stud it, I personally when on a budget would just save the intake hot tanking till you got the entire thing stripped down. Send the intake and heads out to get cleaned and checked all at the same time.

Like I said the intake doesn't actually have to come right off to get the cooler out and get the delete in. Not the ideal situation, but rids the owner of the chances for a ruptured EGR until they get around to doing the entire deal.

Powerstroke214 · Jul 26, 2013

Lassie said:
Mac??? you rebelious kid! Bill Gates is a Ford man!

Lol I didn't pick it! But there's a way to run the AE on a Mac.

What are y'all's thoughts on tuning and monitoring? Livewire and custom tune or CS and flash tuner(SC3? Or whatever it's called) plus custom tune?

Opinions on tunes(for nonstuded trucks)? SRL, Looney etc? Want something that will get scoot, but won't have me looking like a dik, smoking everything.

Sent from the Bayou