Built motor options

TyCorr · Mar 15, 2015

Then again, the 38r works great.

lincolnlocker · Mar 15, 2015

yuppers.

live life full throttle

7.3obs · Mar 15, 2015

Hey guys. I plan to save up. And I mean save up!!!

I'd like to have 600-700 hp. I've read and have read and have read.

THIS is what I was considering doing.

Take a block and bore it .20 over. Put a ford rebuild kit in it from riff raff with ceramic coated pistons.
Set a crower rods
Girdle
1/2 fill block?
Port/polish heads
Fire rings
Beehive springs
Push rods
Studs
THEN
350/200 injectors
S468 from irate
Efuel
Hopefully honey badger sr when it comes out
Bts trans

Plans for the truck would be to pull in 2.6 class, I know I won't win but it should turn some heads. I also like to have it as a dd. My concern with daily driving is tuning. How does that all work. Can you tune down to 400 or so hp with that size injectors? The only time I would use the 600-700 hp would be for the truck pulls.

I live in the middle of nowhere and have no acces to live tuning. Now with that being said should I just find a low mile motor and do your average hope to heck my rods stay in the block build? I'd like to have reliability with billet connecting rods though.

For machine work if I do put rods in, my uncle runs a machine shop and has some crazy machines and his own dyno room.

Any of this looking right?

I came over from PSN and they helped my greatly with mechanical work of my truck and I got a tip that PSA is geared more torwards performance. I've done reading and now I'm wondering if the plan I have got made is anywheres close or even logical. Thanks.

Magnum PD · Mar 15, 2015

May want to have piston bowls modified.

7.3obs · Mar 15, 2015

Have them machined to look like this? Valve reliefs cut also or no?

Magnum PD · Mar 15, 2015

Just depends on your cam, how much you take off the block, heads, and if the Pistons are decked.

TyCorr · Mar 15, 2015

Forged rods and those injectors is a bad idea with any amount if pw. Especially with a 468. Kaboom.

7.3obs · Mar 15, 2015

Magnum PD said:
Just depends on your cam, how much you take off the block, heads, and if the Pistons are decked.

Those terms are new to me to be honest. What machine work does it take to have a reliable 650 hp? From machining of the block for .20 over, piston work and heads being plained and have fire rings installed?

I know with those sticks and turbo some have kept the rods in some have not. I want reliability for sure so I plan to do it once and put rods in.

Magnum PD · Mar 15, 2015

If it's only gonna be used for sled pulling, then you might get away with forged rods. The S468 brings in the cylinder pressure in lower RPMS and the forged rods won't like.
If your gonna build the motor and have the coin, give swamps a call and they can get you a turn key engine.
You can look at my thread of rebuilding and building a 7.3.

7.3obs · Mar 15, 2015

Magnum PD said:
If it's only gonna be used for sled pulling, then you might get away with forged rods. The S468 brings in the cylinder pressure in lower RPMS and the forged rods won't like.
If your gonna build the motor and have the coin, give swamps a call and they can get you a turn key engine.
You can look at my thread of rebuilding and building a 7.3.

I'd like to have it as a dd also. I think I might just save up and get a motor from swamps. I think it I will have a lot less hassle with a swamps motor.

DocBar · Mar 16, 2015

7.3obs said:
I'd like to have it as a dd also. I think I might just save up and get a motor from swamps. I think it I will have a lot less hassle with a swamps motor.

This is the route to go, Don't underestimate how much of a role tuning plays. Live tuning is money well spent.

Hotrodtractor · Mar 16, 2015

TyCorr said:
Thats a badazz rig for sure. Plagued byvthe same problem as my 7.3. Got a girls truck bed on it. Ill never buy anything but an 8' bed again.

That's fair if you need a long bed. I purposefully bought the short bed because it makes handling my long gooseneck trailer easier with its tighter turning radius and that was worth it to me.

TyCorr · Mar 16, 2015

Hotrodtractor said:
That's fair if you need a long bed. I purposefully bought the short bed because it makes handling my long gooseneck trailer easier with its tighter turning radius and that was worth it to me.

Haaaa thats exactly why my 00 is a shortbed! Ive realized over the years it was a mistake. Its been annoying the last 15 years having to grab the enclosed trailer every time I go to a lumber yard because nothing fits in the bed.

They are fine if you dont mind taking a trailer everywhere. Especially once you put a weathergard up against the bulkhead, lol