changing gears 3.55 to 4.10 2010 f250

drunk on diesel

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don't steal my thunder! LOL

I'm running 35's and would like to go down to 33's, but want to keep similar RPM
 

7.3powerstroke00

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3.73s seem like great all around gears, my 09 had them with 35s and did great towing and mileage wise. My 2010 has 3.31s..... Ran them with 35s awhile, did ok.... Would love to have some 3.73s!
 

Jesse_01

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I think it depends on your terrain and average speed limits. In the hills and mountains of pa and a West va I loved 4.10's I wouldn't mind them in my '12 either especially running a full wide 35" tire.

Agreed, I am running a 13" wide 35. Sure notice the extra widthm

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sootie

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I think he's referring to the resistance cause by the wide tire getting up to speed and keeping speed easier.

incredibly minute difference. if we were talking land speed records etc that is a different story.
 

capt dong

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plus extra unsprung weight.

i just calculated a 2 mpg loss with same height and wider tires. gonna try a different trans tune.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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I am thinking about changing from 3.55 to 4.10 gears. can I just purchase a ring a pinion or do I need to buy a new carrier?


I have 4.10s on my 2010 250, up from the stock 3.55s. Ring and pinion swap only. Everything else stayed the same. I love the 4.10s... Difference in mileage before and after was negligible, as I had my foot through the boards most of the time... Sure, I lost some top end, but ITS A LIFTED TRUCK....... going over 100 is not very smart (but I do it anyway) in a lifted truck on mud tires, so, I maybe lost a couple MPH, but I loved the way it ran... and is about to run again...

Also.... everyone who is running high hp trucks, with 3.55 gears, seems to have gone through trans after trans.... Mine is still on a stage 1 rudy's trans, with a suncoast HD tc..... about 20 K on it, dozens of track passes, and sled hooks to her... Still kicking....
 

RedRice589

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incredibly minute difference. if we were talking land speed records etc that is a different story.

I mean in all reality sit isn't a minute difference 275/65/20 is like 34.4 in tall but only 9.7 wide I think that's quick math I could be wrong. And a 35/12.50 is a hell of a lot more rolling resistance. Now that's michelins compared to a m/t. But my 12 wide nittos 420's in a 305/50 gents me an almost .6mpg diff versus the 35/12.50 m/t netted an almost 4 mpg difference. Now that's unhooked only 1.6 mpg difference towing. I don't know how much some of you drive but I put 114k miles between 2 trucks last year and that mileage is a big difference for me. Plus the ease on the tranny I'm sick of downshifting everytime I try to pull a long hill in 6th even with stock tires. 3.73 would help but a 4.10..... Would be lovely. Thank you corn I'll be swapping just the ring and pinion at some point. Especially if I run a full 35" toyo like I intend.

Also if your running that 12" wide on a stock wheel won't be too bad. But a 13.50 on a 10" or 12" wheel is a damn solid footprint for resistance.
 

sootie

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you are comparing apples to oranges. even a 33" toyo m/t is one heavy ass tire. get close to an equivalent size in a nitto 420 and see the mpg difference. probably substantial.
 

RedRice589

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you are comparing apples to oranges. even a 33" toyo m/t is one heavy ass tire. get close to an equivalent size in a nitto 420 and see the mpg difference. probably substantial.

You're right, But if I compare a 31.6" tire to that 35" tire my truck is closer to running in a better powerband versus the full 35" tire. Which in turn can hurt mpg also. I would say that a 3.55 with a 35" tire is good for driving normally but personally a 4.11 is a better gear. No you don't get the top end but for the towing and application that may be involved the 4.11 is by far better. I think a 3.73 is medial and you can get along with it well but it is by far to me easier on all parts to go even higher of a gear. More useable rpm and ease of pulling through grades and accelerating. No gear dropping just power. In a pulling aspect. The pros under load far outweigh the cons unloaded. For me that is.
 

Corb@CorbinShipping

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Haha more people talk about it the more I think I should go with 4.10 vs 4.30.

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I thought about the 4.30s, but only if i were going to taller tires....

def get the Ford gears though.... aftermarket ones were a PITA, and required waaaaaaaaay more shim than I have ever heard of.... mine called for a .130, to start with.... then kept on going.... I think it settled on around .150-.160 by the end of it all....
 

RedRice589

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I thought about the 4.30s, but only if i were going to taller tires....

def get the Ford gears though.... aftermarket ones were a PITA, and required waaaaaaaaay more shim than I have ever heard of.... mine called for a .130, to start with.... then kept on going.... I think it settled on around .150-.160 by the end of it all....

Thanks for the input mr Corbin.
 

Wayne

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I've installed a lot of yukon gear sets from randy's ring & pinion with great success. Of course I use a master install kit when I do, but I would not hesitate to go that route again. FWIW, I'd prefer 4.30's if I run 40's, but fr 37's & 38's, 4.10 is my choice. Smaller than that on a non-race truck is 3.73's. Towing heavy on a regular basis, I'd go one level deeper on any set I just mentioned. 4.30's & 40's worked great for daily driving my '72 with the 6.0 and a large VGT.
 

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