I had a picture from my old phone. I cant access it though. Strangely enough, fords antigel will do it too. The formulas look similar, im speculating that its stanadyne in a ford bottle.
Cold weather prep?
- Thread starter Brad.S.19
- Start date
I had a picture from my old phone. I cant access it though. Strangely enough, fords antigel will do it too. The formulas look similar, im speculating that its stanadyne in a ford bottle.
I still have some power service white it is open some is not what is the shelf life on this stuff once open?
I was tossing around the idea of building a new water separator and fuel filter lift pump using a 3 micron cat filter and cat style water speparator with a fass or fuel lab pump once tuned. It would incorporate a inline heater tied to the block heater to simulate a 45-50* starting condition.
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I was tossing around the idea of building a new water separator and fuel filter lift pump using a 3 micron cat filter and cat style water speparator with a fass or fuel lab pump once tuned. It would incorporate a inline heater tied to the block heater to simulate a 45-50* starting condition.
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Brad, we are not talking about starting your truck at -60F in Siberia.. I put 8 ounces of Motorcraft Performance additive in every tank in both my 6.0's and I NEVER gelled in either truck.. I started and drove them daily in 0 F daytime highs and started them plugged in at -25 to -30F am temps.. I started the trucks buried in snow after 10 hours of working in the woods yarding logs and I never had a problem.. If everything is working the way it should and you add the Motorcraft or Stanadyne additive you will not have an issue in NH..
I know, it was a idea for a pump no inline heater then I will just do the additives. I just plan ahead a lot sometimes it is my thought process I like to be prepared just in case the sh*t hits the fan. I know how cold it is berlin and all colder than where I live less than northern maine about cold enough to chip a nipple or colder than a polar bears touch hole. Bud kelly ftw. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxoIUrTn_K8
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I will tell you up front I am 110% a pro Schaeffer products. Not because of labeling but from testing and spending way too much $$$$ over the years doing so from UOA for all different ones. SO its not blind flowing of a label but from trying it out. With that said its not as if you can not use other products and get fantastic performance. It would be complete ignorance to suggest otherwise. So use the data on the Schaeffer's stuff if you so choose or plug in whatever brand you prefer that has similar specs. I will list the products page and links to the actual tech data sheets that give you the specs such as temp ranges etc.. as that is likely what you are looking for.
Best stuff I have ever used:
Trans fluid: Schaeffers All trans ( its what BTS and Beans uses for trans and engine oils etc). It is a pure POA based and it cert to work in the 4r100 after all if Brian uses it you know its going to be top shelf.
They make a fantastic fuel additive. Its fantastic and in colder climates the fuel mix tends to be very thin and low wax and to do this cheaply means a significant drop in the lubricity ( think wear of your injectors and fuel pump) as well you take a serious hit in MPG. Also it does not use alcohol to help prevent gelling it uses a jet fuel deicer additive. They have a couple different additives that are specifically for winter climate depending on your goals and the extremes of the conditions. I will list them below
For that cold weather you definitely want a syn engine oil as well given the HPOP nature of our injection system. Again if you decide to go the Schaeffers route they have some of the very best oil and if you account for price probably the best out there. 5w40 is what you want.
* Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme: #204SAT ALL-TRANS Supreme® Auto Transmission Fluid
has a low pour stable to -60F and is a pure POA base syn ( real syn group IV not group III)
Data spec sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/90-204SAT-td.pdf
* Schaeffer's Supreme 9000 5w40:
The 9000 5w40 would be ideal for cold weather. It has a stable pour point down to -41F.
Data sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/9000-Logo.pdf Unlike other oil companies they also will tell you what base oils etc they use in their oils and what is in their additives not the amounts but at least they list the products.
* Fuel Additives:
** Diesel Treat 2000™ Winter Fuel Additive which is there 2000 plus winter additives add to it. You get increase cetane rating increased lubricity quieter running better MPG
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/137ULSW.pdf
** ': This is basically only the winterizer the jet fuel deicer formula that is added to the Diesel 2000 without all the lubricity etc. It just prevents gelling and adds cold weather protection to your current fuel.
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/300ULSW.pdf
De-gel agent: If you ever get stuck with fuel that is already gelled none of the preventives tend to work and most of the those that are suppose to de-gel work marginally at best. This product seems to be one of the better ones. I have only had its performance reported to me so I can not comment first hand on this as I can the others.
Diesel Hot Line: #284 Diesel Hot Line Diesel Hot Line is designed to disperse water in fuel systems, de-ice frozen fuel filters, reliquefy gelled diesel fuel and dissolve ice and wax formations.
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/284.pdf
In all but the coldest winter months I use: Schaeffer's #139A SoyShield® All Season. Its a bio base from soy and does more than anything else quiets down the diesel rattle compared to anything I have tried. Combine it with actual bio diesel and its really good as it brings back the little bit of MPG bio tends to loose. IMO best stuff out there for all but the months well below freezing. But even it lowers the gelling point of untreated diesel by 15F-25F. IMO its the best additive they make and on the market as a whole for fuel. Nothing has made as much of a difference as it has.
You will have to call them to see if you can find a distributor in your area. I place my orders for everything I use so I order 5 gal buckets of oil for my oil changes and trans flush plus the fuel treatments I use year round as what I gain in mpg more than makes up for the cost of the additive. I gain 1-1.5 in the warm months and 2-3 in the winter. But I think shipping is free over a certain amount like $300 IIRC. I have a local shop about 1 hr from me that carries and will order anything I need so I have not had to deal with ordering in years. That is of course the one thing IMO that keeps Schaeffers from being much more popular. They obviously do not offer the kind of pricing kick back that huge chain stores demand for stocking a product. Maybe it could also be a production capacity issue I am honestly not sure which.
I have yet to find one of their products that is not at the in the top of its market area in performance.
Not sure but most people forget to do axle gear changes until their axles are burnt up.
If I were you I would do of complete changes to all the fluids greases etc in the vehicle.
Some other things people tend to forget about:
Power steering flush. Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme In many of the SD this make a noticeable difference in PS performance.
Brake fluid system should be completely flushed every 2 yrs or more frequently in high humidity areas. If you experience any brake fade the fluid at the caliper was cooked and at least the amount in the soft line and caliper should be flushed ( 1/4-1/2 cup at most). I find ATE Super Blue/200 Dot 4 to be a fantastic brake fluid pair. Its comes in two colors blue ( super blue) and amber ( 200) so when you flush there is no way not to be sure you have done a full flush. It also have very high dry and wet boiling points, 536 F and 396 F respectively. It blows away all certs from Dot 3 to Dot 5.1. You can tech go longer between flushes but I do not.
Transfer case oil: Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme
Front D50/60 axle dif: Schaeffers #741 75w90 (pure POA base) full syn Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/740-741.pdf
Rear Ford/Sterling 10.5: Schaeffers #167 75w140 Full Syn Moly Gear Oil (pure POA base) Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/167-Logo.pdf
Grease points of suspension and driveline: Schaeffer's #197 Moly Pure Synthetic Grease ( pure POA base with temp range from -50F - +500F with intermittent peak temps to 750F) Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/197.pdf
Also do not forget about coolant flush. In this I prefer CAT ELC antifreeze. It has a crazy duty life 600k miles or 6 yrs flush cycle and offers great cavitation performance etc.. Basically 50/50 ELC to distilled water is recommended down to -34F and 60/40 ELC/H2O for temps down to -60F Here is a PDF for it put out by CAT
Whether you choose Schaeffer or some other combo of products I would recommend changing out all your fluids if they have not been done and for extreme cold syn really shine. The extreme temps is where syn IMO really earn their keep.
For your heater plug if you do not mind drilling a hole in your bumper you can mount a marine water proof plug mount with a flip cap. It will make it much easier to plug in and out and no worries about yanking the cord and busting the wire terminals from constant pulling or if you drive off and forget to unplug ( ask me how I know)
Best stuff I have ever used:
Trans fluid: Schaeffers All trans ( its what BTS and Beans uses for trans and engine oils etc). It is a pure POA based and it cert to work in the 4r100 after all if Brian uses it you know its going to be top shelf.
They make a fantastic fuel additive. Its fantastic and in colder climates the fuel mix tends to be very thin and low wax and to do this cheaply means a significant drop in the lubricity ( think wear of your injectors and fuel pump) as well you take a serious hit in MPG. Also it does not use alcohol to help prevent gelling it uses a jet fuel deicer additive. They have a couple different additives that are specifically for winter climate depending on your goals and the extremes of the conditions. I will list them below
For that cold weather you definitely want a syn engine oil as well given the HPOP nature of our injection system. Again if you decide to go the Schaeffers route they have some of the very best oil and if you account for price probably the best out there. 5w40 is what you want.
* Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme: #204SAT ALL-TRANS Supreme® Auto Transmission Fluid
has a low pour stable to -60F and is a pure POA base syn ( real syn group IV not group III)
Data spec sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/90-204SAT-td.pdf
* Schaeffer's Supreme 9000 5w40:
The 9000 5w40 would be ideal for cold weather. It has a stable pour point down to -41F.
Data sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/9000-Logo.pdf Unlike other oil companies they also will tell you what base oils etc they use in their oils and what is in their additives not the amounts but at least they list the products.
* Fuel Additives:
** Diesel Treat 2000™ Winter Fuel Additive which is there 2000 plus winter additives add to it. You get increase cetane rating increased lubricity quieter running better MPG
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/137ULSW.pdf
** ': This is basically only the winterizer the jet fuel deicer formula that is added to the Diesel 2000 without all the lubricity etc. It just prevents gelling and adds cold weather protection to your current fuel.
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/300ULSW.pdf
De-gel agent: If you ever get stuck with fuel that is already gelled none of the preventives tend to work and most of the those that are suppose to de-gel work marginally at best. This product seems to be one of the better ones. I have only had its performance reported to me so I can not comment first hand on this as I can the others.
Diesel Hot Line: #284 Diesel Hot Line Diesel Hot Line is designed to disperse water in fuel systems, de-ice frozen fuel filters, reliquefy gelled diesel fuel and dissolve ice and wax formations.
Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/284.pdf
In all but the coldest winter months I use: Schaeffer's #139A SoyShield® All Season. Its a bio base from soy and does more than anything else quiets down the diesel rattle compared to anything I have tried. Combine it with actual bio diesel and its really good as it brings back the little bit of MPG bio tends to loose. IMO best stuff out there for all but the months well below freezing. But even it lowers the gelling point of untreated diesel by 15F-25F. IMO its the best additive they make and on the market as a whole for fuel. Nothing has made as much of a difference as it has.
You will have to call them to see if you can find a distributor in your area. I place my orders for everything I use so I order 5 gal buckets of oil for my oil changes and trans flush plus the fuel treatments I use year round as what I gain in mpg more than makes up for the cost of the additive. I gain 1-1.5 in the warm months and 2-3 in the winter. But I think shipping is free over a certain amount like $300 IIRC. I have a local shop about 1 hr from me that carries and will order anything I need so I have not had to deal with ordering in years. That is of course the one thing IMO that keeps Schaeffers from being much more popular. They obviously do not offer the kind of pricing kick back that huge chain stores demand for stocking a product. Maybe it could also be a production capacity issue I am honestly not sure which.
I have yet to find one of their products that is not at the in the top of its market area in performance.
Not sure but most people forget to do axle gear changes until their axles are burnt up.
If I were you I would do of complete changes to all the fluids greases etc in the vehicle.
Some other things people tend to forget about:
Power steering flush. Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme In many of the SD this make a noticeable difference in PS performance.
Brake fluid system should be completely flushed every 2 yrs or more frequently in high humidity areas. If you experience any brake fade the fluid at the caliper was cooked and at least the amount in the soft line and caliper should be flushed ( 1/4-1/2 cup at most). I find ATE Super Blue/200 Dot 4 to be a fantastic brake fluid pair. Its comes in two colors blue ( super blue) and amber ( 200) so when you flush there is no way not to be sure you have done a full flush. It also have very high dry and wet boiling points, 536 F and 396 F respectively. It blows away all certs from Dot 3 to Dot 5.1. You can tech go longer between flushes but I do not.
Transfer case oil: Schaeffer's All Trans Supreme
Front D50/60 axle dif: Schaeffers #741 75w90 (pure POA base) full syn Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/740-741.pdf
Rear Ford/Sterling 10.5: Schaeffers #167 75w140 Full Syn Moly Gear Oil (pure POA base) Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/167-Logo.pdf
Grease points of suspension and driveline: Schaeffer's #197 Moly Pure Synthetic Grease ( pure POA base with temp range from -50F - +500F with intermittent peak temps to 750F) Data Sheet: http://www.schaefferoil.com/cmss_files/attachmentlibrary/TD Sheets/197.pdf
Also do not forget about coolant flush. In this I prefer CAT ELC antifreeze. It has a crazy duty life 600k miles or 6 yrs flush cycle and offers great cavitation performance etc.. Basically 50/50 ELC to distilled water is recommended down to -34F and 60/40 ELC/H2O for temps down to -60F Here is a PDF for it put out by CAT
Whether you choose Schaeffer or some other combo of products I would recommend changing out all your fluids if they have not been done and for extreme cold syn really shine. The extreme temps is where syn IMO really earn their keep.
For your heater plug if you do not mind drilling a hole in your bumper you can mount a marine water proof plug mount with a flip cap. It will make it much easier to plug in and out and no worries about yanking the cord and busting the wire terminals from constant pulling or if you drive off and forget to unplug ( ask me how I know)
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