CPS gear contact?

lincolnlocker

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Guys do not get hung up on color black white grey its just a freaking color. They can change the color on any CPs from one run to the next.

On the BW I have tried to always mention that the BW CPS seems to be more sensitive to electric inference especially produced by electric motors that are starting to throw off dirty feedback. A number of people found that with the BW the old wiper motors would cause issues and the engine would do all the things we typically see when ones going out i.e. surge stumble cut out. Changing the wiper motor IIRC fixed it in every case. But it would be likely that any thing in the truck that would be sending off EI could have this effect or it could be just that it had common wiring with the wiper.

Because of this and the fact at in my test and others it and Delphi were so close to IMO no matter I prefer the Delphi. I have both and have run both without issues. With the one from Ford and IH I lost 2 mpg and ended up failing on 2 cylinders and even more went up % wise. With either of these all of those were back in spec and no failures. I run the delphi and keep the BW in the glove box but I do plan to pickup 3-5 more of the delphi as I plan to run a 7.3 for a long time and I could always sell them.

If anyone has any doubt between the old grey or current Ford IH ones and these just try picking up different sockets of different sizes with the end and you will see quickly why it does better. If you still have one of the original "black" ford ones try it and you will see just how much stronger it is over the current ones Ford has put out since.

There is actually a proper spec for gap between the gear and the CPS. There is a plunge mic specifically for setting it correctly with shims for the proper air gap. You could likely rig something up but IMO as close as you can get without any contact would seem to make the most sense especially if the gear is welded on so you do not have to worry about end play as much.

There is a good thread on it by one of the first people to post solid testing of the various CPS and then feed back. You will see the comments about the wiper motors their as well.

CPS Testing



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thanks for posting tarm. most of what you said has been covered slightly and when you say delphi, which one? there are two, the one that looks like the recall grey and the original black. If you look back a ways I posted a pic of the two styles by drill bits. those drill bits are the last size bit that each color could pick up and you can tell that the delphi black cps picked up about twice what the grey picked up...

thanks for posting sir!

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DEEZUZ

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I ran a black in my truck for two dies and it would die while. Coasting constantly. Tossed back in Alliant power Grey and not a hiccup
 

DEEZUZ

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Lmao. Sorry.

I ran a black cps in my truck for two days. It would die anytime I'd be coasting. Tossed my Grey ap back in and fine since. I was tracing down a shakey idle issue, never went away
 

TARM

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thanks for posting tarm. most of what you said has been covered slightly and when you say delphi, which one? there are two, the one that looks like the recall grey and the original black. If you look back a ways I posted a pic of the two styles by drill bits. those drill bits are the last size bit that each color could pick up and you can tell that the delphi black cps picked up about twice what the grey picked up...

thanks for posting sir!

live life full throttle

The one that is black in your pics ht101 is the part #

What matters is ths strength of the halls sensor and its location to cenrerline. Any offset has an effect on timing with the end effect being advnaced or retarded SOI timing. That was one of the big issue with the t466e purple/blueish one. It is offset and a number of the others which I think was just bad manf. Matt@gearhead actually mentioned the change in SOI from different cps and those of use that torn the cps apart could see the correlation between the positioning of the sensor. But the main issue is the weaker the magnetic strength from the power of it or the amount of plastic covering it which would effect strength as well as effect distance from the pickups on the gear to get readings are what effect the contrib test. If the signal is weak then the sensor will pick up the signal later or miss it and then you see the numbers climb and you get cyl over. 3 when there really is not any other issue than the sensor itself.
 
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lincolnlocker

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The one that is black in your pics ht101 is the part #

What matters is ths strength of the halls sensor and its location to cenrerline. Any offset has an effect on timing with the end effect being advnaced or retarded SOI timing. That was one of the big issue with the t466e purple/blueish one. It is offset and a number of the others which I think was just bad manf. Matt@gearhead actually mentioned the change in SOI from different cps and those of use that torn the cps apart could see the correlation between the positioning of the sensor. But the main issue is the weaker the magnetic strength from the power of it or the amount of plastic covering it which would effect strength as well as effect distance from the pickups on the gear to get readings are what effect the contrib test. If the signal is weak then the sensor will pick up the signal later or miss it and then you see the numbers climb and you get cyl over. 3 when there really is not any other issue than the sensor itself.
The black sensor is a hts101g and the hts101 came as the weak gray sensor. but yes, I understand what you're saying.

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TARM

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To make it as KISS as possible whatever sensor that can pick up the heaviest object I have used bolts nuts or sockets and secondly to look for any marking on the face that may show where the hall sensor is centered. But the first is the critical on for failed CCT.

What really bothers me about what happened to you is the fact that different sensors were making different contact. The one constant that is suppose to be is the seating depth of the sensor. Obviously its naive to expect china manf to hold to any proper spec without larger tolerances but your issue can be the result and imagine if it was the other direction with it being too far. The later would lead to missed and or late readings and really ****ting running.

Where did you purchase the one with the G ending part number?
 
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I might try the Delphi for the helluva it. Again my truck has never ran better since swapping in a BWD CPS.
 

lincolnlocker

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To make it as KISS as possible whatever sensor that can pick up the heaviest object I have used bolts nuts or sockets and secondly to look for any marking on the face that may show where the hall sensor is centered. But the first is the critical on for failed CCT.

What really bothers me about what happened to you is the fact that different sensors were making different contact. The one constant that is suppose to be is the seating depth of the sensor. Obviously its naive to expect china manf to hold to any proper spec without larger tolerances but your issue can be the result and imagine if it was the other direction with it being too far. The later would lead to missed and or late readings and really ****ting running.

Where did you purchase the one with the G ending part number?
Amazon. no more left though.

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TyCorr

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Lmao. Sorry.

I ran a black cps in my truck for two days. It would die anytime I'd be coasting. Tossed my Grey ap back in and fine since. I was tracing down a shakey idle issue, never went away

When you "let off" thats when the cam would shift forward if something is worn or loose. The field is interrupted and the truck will die.
 

TyCorr

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But running a sensor with a stronger magnet may make it unnoticeable?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

No. The protrusion and strength of the ferrous metal in the sensor are directly tied to the distance from the cam gear and tone ring.

Didnt ever see people shimming those grey sensors?
 

79jasper

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No, hadn't looked that close.
Was just curious since a truck will run fine with one sensor, then like you described above with a different sensor.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk
 

TyCorr

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No, hadn't looked that close.
Was just curious since a truck will run fine with one sensor, then like you described above with a different sensor.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

And there might be different reasons for each failure. Loose or coming loose cam gear, incorrect air gap between gear and sensor, crappy sensor tolerances, incorrect sensor specifications, bla bla, ad nauseum.
 

lincolnlocker

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No. The protrusion and strength of the ferrous metal in the sensor are directly tied to the distance from the cam gear and tone ring.

Didnt ever see people shimming those grey sensors?
pretty sure, like I posted the pics above, the black is the only one that needs shimmed... I took out the black cps and replaced it with a gray cps and a couple shims I got off ebay, and I can make it loose signal around 3400 rpm so I need to take a shim out... the black cps is longer and would require more shimming.. with the wax paper as shims, I could still run up near 4k smoothly.

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rusty1161

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rutroh, look what was on my doorstep when I got home today!!
myqadu3e.jpg


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Dang it! What a crap shoot. Ordered from Amazon, they showed the black CPS and this is what I got......

Rusty
 

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lincolnlocker

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Dang it! What a crap shoot. Ordered from Amazon, they showed the black CPS and this is what I got......

Rusty
yep. I got one of those too!




so I installed the black cps with a .020 and a .010 shim and it is still to close. must be my wax paper shims where thicker cuz in this video of me pulling you can hear it cutting out and the cps intermittent code came up. my girl called it at the end too. kinda funny. wouldn't get above 3500rpm but I did end up taking first cuz the big boy of the class broke. and they reset the sled.. well added a 16 foot chain to it is seemed like anyway. lol
http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=jcxYqnU2lU8#

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gnxtc2

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I ordered a second Standard CPS off Ebay for under $10. The second CPS came in gray. The box for the gray sensor says it's made in Mexico. The box for the black one says made in USA. The USA box appears to be an older Standard box logo design. Hmmmmm

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Billy T.
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