Cracked block and Block fill questions

[79jasper]

The "lock-n-stitch" would be great for that.

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[lincolnlocker]

Doing a partial fill will require a complete teardown. You pour the block filler down the water jackets from the deck surface. IF you leave the bottom end together and happen to spill a little, it'll be on your pistons and cylinder walls. The stuff we've used in the past is basically concrete. The engine has to come out to do it right.

I think you need to change gears and concentrate on stopping the leak instead of permanently fixing the crack.

I was only going to do the partial fill through the removable soft plugs without pulling the motor. I have changed gears on that and will figure out the best route to stop it like i mentioned already by drilling it out on each end sealing it or by stitching it. Or even look into a spreadable compound specifically for this type of fix. Not just jb weld it either... lol

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[lincolnlocker]

The "lock-n-stitch" would be great for that.

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When i was told about the stitch method, that was the first thing that popped up on YouTube. Looks like the best way to stitch it. As long as i can get a drill in there. I am going to call them today to see exactly what i need and the cost.

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[79jasper]

From previous research, it's a common method to repair cracked heads.
So I would think it would be great in this situation.
It's quite interesting as well. Lol

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[lincolnlocker]

From previous research, it's a common method to repair cracked heads.
So I would think it would be great in this situation.
It's quite interesting as well. Lol

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They do make it look somewhat easy in the YouTube video!

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[pipedobber]

Drain coolant, die grinder with a carbide bit and “groove” the crack. Go past on either end, pre heat it, weld it up with 7018. When preheating, heat a decent sized area around it, not just the crack itself. Ground to the block, as close to weld as possible.

 

[08Monster]

Drain coolant, die grinder with a carbide bit and “groove” the crack. Go past on either end, pre heat it, weld it up with 7018. When preheating, heat a decent sized area around it, not just the crack itself. Ground to the block, as close to weld as possible.

This is what I would do and was going to suggest.

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[08Monster]

This is what I would do and was going to suggest.

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Also let it cool very slowly after the weld.

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[C2tuck]

I had a 99 Dodge with the one of the 53 blocks in it that were notorious for cracking just like that on the passenger side. I was in a bind working out of town, so I put a few bottles of stop leak in it and it held up for a lot longer than I thought it would. Truck never got hot after either.


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[lincolnlocker]

Im leaning towards just drilling each end of the crack, tapping the holes, plugging them and putting some stop leak in it and driving her like a normal white man till i can get my other truck figured out.

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[5 oh]

At least it doesn’t look like my 7.3 block did a couple years ago

 

[pipedobber]

Ouch

 

[Decker]

Could do 7018 but chances are it wouldn't hold long if at all. Nickle would be best bet imo if you plan to weld. Welding either way is sketchy even with propper pre and post heat. But I have seen stiching work great on tractors. That be my vote.

 

[lincolnlocker]

Could do 7018 but chances are it wouldn't hold long if at all. Nickle would be best bet imo if you plan to weld. Welding either way is sketchy even with propper pre and post heat. But I have seen stiching work great on tractors. That be my vote.

I have never heard of anyone using 7018 on cast iron anyway. Im confident in my welding skills. Im not confident in getting it clean and doing it while it is still in the truck...

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[PDT1081]

Here's a question, did that block ever have the pan replaced without removing from the truck?

 

[psduser1]

I have never heard of anyone using 7018 on cast iron anyway. Im confident in my welding skills. Im not confident in getting it clean and doing it while it is still in the truck...

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I've actually used 7018 several times....
Pre and post heat are important. Ss wire (tig) works fairly well also.
That type of repair can also depend on how well you can get to the repair area, somewhat.

 

[Magnum PD]

Something that I wouldn’t succeed at trying to do.

 

[DEEZUZ]

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1523548#post1523548

fftopic:stupid::lame:

 

[psduser1]

http://powerstrokearmy.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1523548#post1523548

fftopic:stupid::lame:

Bawahaaaaaa:toast:

I was just reading that ad.

Not sure Jake could deal with a 6.0! His luck, the trans would force him into the shop, which would lead to the standard 6l problems, which would lead to the rear axle coming apart, which would lead to firm failure, which would lead to....
That's just his luck, no matter how how solid of a truck it is.

 

[pipedobber]

I’ve had way better luck repairing cast iron with 7018 than I have with nickel rod. 7018 is softer and seems to melt/bond into the cast in my opinion. I’m sure it’s been done both ways with success.